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Idle Speed Control Valve

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Old 06-04-2009, 12:46 PM
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Cossy Mike
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Default Idle Speed Control Valve

Anyone know where I can buy a new Idel Speed Control Valve for my standard Sierra Sapphire RS Cosworth 4x4 1991(J)?

I am having problems locating one, are they sensible money from Ford still?

Thanks,

Old 06-04-2009, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by saphcosmike
Anyone know where I can buy a new Idel Speed Control Valve for my standard Sierra Sapphire RS Cosworth 4x4 1991(J)?

I am having problems locating one, are they sensible money from Ford still?

Thanks,

I got the same problem with my Focus Zetec. Fucker is slow at reving down. Ford want a £110 +VAT. BASTARDS!!!!
Old 06-04-2009, 03:19 PM
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You be able to get a pattern one for a fraction of that.
Just looked at some intermotor ones and they only about £25 + vat.
Pattern Cossie ones are about £100 + vat

No idea about gen ones though, any local factors should be able to find you a pattern one.
Old 06-04-2009, 04:04 PM
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Im sure they are the same as the Lancia deltas.Whats wrong with it mate,is it reving up and down all the time.Mine used to do this and i got told to lub it with somw brake fluid and its 100% better now.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:02 PM
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9 times out of 10, if the idle is raising and falling the iscv is working perfectly, as thats exactly what its supposed to do....its just being fed the wrong information by the ecu, and there are several causes of that.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:06 PM
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When idling the revs wander now and then. Sometimes you pull up and it'll wander from 900-1200rpm and other times you pull up and it just sits perfect at 900rpm.

I was thinking of changing the ISCV for a new.

Old 06-04-2009, 05:08 PM
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check for air leaks, check and set your tps, check your ect sensor, clean the iscv with thin oil (not wd40)

and try again
Old 06-04-2009, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
check for air leaks, check and set your tps, check your ect sensor, clean the iscv with thin oil (not wd40)

and try again
I checked for air leaks and none seem apparent. How do I check and set the throttle position sensor?

Sorry for my ignorance but whats the ect james?

I was going to try and clean it up but was told I would need a new gasket if it came off.

Old 06-04-2009, 05:14 PM
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ect is the blue temp sender on the rear of the head, so the ecu knows engine temp

tps needs setting up with a multimeter between two pins, and adjust untill the correct voltage is acheived..

iscv will come out easily, it has two "o" rings, no gasket
Old 06-04-2009, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
ect is the blue temp sender on the rear of the head, so the ecu knows engine temp

tps needs setting up with a multimeter between two pins, and adjust untill the correct voltage is acheived..

iscv will come out easily, it has two "o" rings, no gasket
Ahhh....never had the ect out, will try and buy a new one, can't be that much.

Will have a tinker with removing the valve tomorrow as I don't finish work until late tonight.

Thanks bud, appreciated
Old 06-04-2009, 05:19 PM
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matt lewis about £15 for an ect, worth changing every couple of years tbh

iscv can be tight to pull out, as they stick on the seals, dont twist them with anything as you will break the lug of the throttle body

Last edited by JTECH James; 06-04-2009 at 05:21 PM.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
matt lewis about £15 for an ect, worth changing every couple of years tbh

iscv can be tight to pull out, as they stick on the seals, dont twist them with anything as you will break the lug of the throttle body
okey doke, Matt Lewis here I come
Old 06-04-2009, 05:28 PM
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Im sure you can get a sensor kit off matt for about 50 quid and you get the crank sensor air temp sensor and water temp sensor.Have you had your base idle set too.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenny Boy
Im sure you can get a sensor kit off matt for about 50 quid and you get the crank sensor air temp sensor and water temp sensor.Have you had your base idle set too.
Nothings been touched on the car since new, it's covered only 40,908 miles. I have replaced with new genuine parts,

Distributor cap (Black MM)
Rotor arm
HT leads
Coil lead
Group A coil
Water temp sensor (dash)
Phase sensor
Spark plugs
Radiator

awaiting phase sensor in the post and I have just ordered

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=160325476054 5 minutes ago

Never set the base idle because its random when it happens. When its fine its fine, when it wanders it's only slight but really annoying!
Old 06-04-2009, 05:42 PM
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base idle is critical,

unplug iscv, adjust idle to 900rpm,
Old 06-04-2009, 05:44 PM
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Mine some times idles spot on then other times it idles a bit higher.Im not that bothered lol.I spent a fair bit on mine too.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:46 PM
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9 quid for a water temp sensor thats cheap.I think i payed about 25 quid for mine 3 years ago.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
base idle is critical,

unplug iscv, adjust idle to 900rpm,
Whats the best way to do this.Do you have to run the engine till the fans kick in then adjust it.This is the wat ive been told anyway.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:56 PM
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just make sure its over 70degs imo
Old 06-04-2009, 06:24 PM
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Sweet.Then i take it you just adjust the allen key on the throttle body.
Old 06-04-2009, 06:30 PM
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4x4s have a brass flathead screw on the base of the t/b
Old 06-04-2009, 07:25 PM
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I would check the idle CO is correct, as this will fluctuate the idle, and vary with temperature.
tabetha
Old 06-04-2009, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
matt lewis about £15 for an ect, worth changing every couple of years tbh
why would you change something that is not a service item without testing it first?
Old 06-04-2009, 09:36 PM
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because in my cossie time i find they last around two years before throwing a spaz,

and for less than £20, it is a service part imo
Old 06-04-2009, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
because in my cossie time i find they last around two years before throwing a spaz,

and for less than £20, it is a service part imo
Well said.....

How often would you recommend changing the timing belt james?

reason I ask is it's on the rollers for the first time end of June and I don't want it to go up in a puff of smoke..
Old 06-04-2009, 09:43 PM
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i used to do my cam belt once a year,

or once every engine build

which ever came first
Old 07-04-2009, 07:06 PM
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New phase sensor fitted tonight. The car now idles like a pile of shite it keeps cutting out. I held revs up to 2500rpm until it warmed through. It then seemed the same as it was before.

I am hoping it's just the battery thats weak. Ive left it on trickle charge over night.

I removed the ISCV and there seems to be nothing to it. The 'o' rings are fine so I re fitted it for now.

I am hoping it just needs a good run out as it has'nt been out since before Christmas.

ECT sensor coming tomorrow. How much coolant will I loose removing it?

Last edited by Cossy Mike; 07-04-2009 at 07:12 PM.
Old 07-04-2009, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
9 times out of 10, if the idle is raising and falling the iscv is working perfectly, as thats exactly what its supposed to do....its just being fed the wrong information by the ecu, and there are several causes of that.
hi m8 i had the same thing with my 3dr the week end it means its just sticking m8 take it out get small screwdriver and keep pushing the inside up and down and try and turn thee inside around if u can ad a little wd40 wile u do it m8 then try it mine was reving up and dowm did this as my bro told me what 2 do and it now works perfect now good luck

Last edited by davebigden; 07-04-2009 at 08:03 PM.
Old 07-04-2009, 07:53 PM
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I need one for my ka anyone any help?
Cheers
AJ
Old 07-04-2009, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by davebigden
hi m8 i had the same thing with my 3dr the week end it means its just sticking m8 take it out get small screwdriver and keep pushing the inside up and down and try and turn thee inside around if u can ad a little wd40 wile u do it m8 then try it mine was reving up and dowm did this as my bro told me what 2 do and it now works perfeck now good luck

I had it out of the car and in my hand about 2 hours ago. I could not see what had the movement on it. It had like a threaded end sticking out with a tiny nut on the end.

What bit do I 'work'?
Old 07-04-2009, 07:58 PM
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i dont think you will be able to move it by hand bud!btw soz i could not find that website
Old 07-04-2009, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mechanic28
i dont think you will be able to move it by hand bud!btw soz i could not find that website
No bother, I could'nt find nowt either.
Old 07-04-2009, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by saphcosmike
I had it out of the car and in my hand about 2 hours ago. I could not see what had the movement on it. It had like a threaded end sticking out with a tiny nut on the end.

What bit do I 'work'?
give me a bell m8 and ile tell u what 2 do 07813855364 dave
Old 07-04-2009, 08:43 PM
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the inner plunger will move against the spring

DO NOT use wd40!
Old 07-04-2009, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
the inner plunger will move against the spring

DO NOT use wd40!
i was recommended to use carb cleaner
Old 07-04-2009, 08:53 PM
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carb cleaner will clean it fine,

but lube it with thin oil, like 3 in one
Old 07-04-2009, 08:56 PM
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CHEERS
Old 08-04-2009, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
4x4s have a brass flathead screw on the base of the t/b
My problem now is it won't hold the revs. It's trying to idle at 600rpm and obviously eventually cuts out.

Can I adjust the tiny screw under the throttle body to slightly raise the revs? I can feel one there but can't see it.

Is it best to access this under the car?

Thanks
Old 08-04-2009, 04:11 PM
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yes mate that screw underneath ya throttle body is ya base idle screw
Old 08-04-2009, 04:11 PM
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u need to undo the 13mm nut that locks the idle screw in place


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