Been advised against it what do you think ?

 

I'd like to know this actually

 

mine handled much better with a bit more camber, and never had any issues with them

 

Fit the tcas yes but don't fit compression struts

Like J-Tech says the extra bit of camber improves the car no end

 

yes, compression struts are a bit harsh for road use! lol

 

definately makes a difference

 

the title says fast road .........


surely that dont apply to you gary ,



beef

 

Who's best to get them from ?

 

i ran compbrake ones

 

I guess this is for a mates car?

 

PMSL


Seems you have a bit of a reputation for homosexual driving Gary

 

deffo improves handling mate when set up.

 

Fast road.are we speaking about bri car kev ,lol

 

Or even yours stu. fuck knows why 4x4 boy is asking about fast saffs!

 

Pair of ugly cunts.

 

Pair of ugly cunts

(what i meant to post)

 

Did the people advising against fitting them say specifically what was bad about being able to adjust the camber? Or was it more to do with the strength of them or something like that?

 

prob just that they give a harsher ride
if you like a nice smooth drive then any motorsport part
i.e poly bush/rose joint etc will be a harder drive
but increase the handling ability
so its more to do with what you want from the car
unless you do drive the car hard or on track regularly
then they prob aren't realy required,
but if you do then yes they can make a decent bit of a differance

 

I guess you'd fit adjustable TCAs if you want to alter the camber at the front. Do you? Are you looking for more negative camber? Maybe think about adjustable top mounts also?

Charles

 

Didn't really say m8.

Don't go on track just want it to handle well on the road.

As above m8.

 

I suppose the advantage with having the strut tops cut and adjustable top mounts fitted is that if you choose carefully you can get caster adjustment ones as well.
Short of shimming the TCA arm/ARB junction there isn't an easy way to increase caster on a standardish Cosworth front set-up is there? I've noticed a few recent articles ( esp on the 3-door rwd ) commenting how they don't have much self-centreing action compared to modern sporty cars. The caster also helps preserve the -ve camber on the wheel as you turn it which helps keep the outside wheel flatter to the floor as you roll onto it in a corner

 

Put it this way, fast road or not fast road, does anyone consider the constaint of the standard TCA adequate?

I think its a shite design to start with.

Fitting comp struts does not create a harsh ride. It is the way that people don't run a roll bar with them and then have to run stupidly hard spring rates to stop excess roll that creates a hard ride.

 

bang on mate

if you run a front mounted arb to compensate for the comp struts yo won't need the stiffer springs, but the tca's being adjustable makes it better rather than worse

 

Have many people on here gone to the bother of fitting compression struts to a predominantly road car?

 

Why would the adjustable ones be more harsh than the o/e ones ?

 

Personally I would have thought it would be barely noticeable being as most Cosworth owners seem to have poly-bushed TCAs/ARB mountings already and are often running 17" tyre combos?

Someone once told me that polybushing on the front end just adds precision without too much extra NVH......it's usually once you start on the back of the car ( solid beam mounts, solid rear arm bushings etc ) that you start to really introduce NVH into the car and interior.....

 

Think i might just get a set and try them.

 

For the camber adjusters do these not adjust the caster along with the camber. All the ones I can find, has the multiple holes around the outside but then the offset hole in the middle for the strut top. So in theory from this you cant adjust camber and caster seperately but maybe just setup the camber and accect the caster to be whatever it works out at?

 

The bearing in the centre of both types still only rotates around the same amount of degrees dan boy - so no matter wether you have multi adjustable ones or fixed eccentric adjustable ones the bearing in the middle does the work. If your going greater than 10 degrees then spin it round to its next setting where it will need to be anyway !!

The main difference is just what angle the bearing sits at and if it is within its movable tolerance the result will be the same or similar.

The options then come down to if you wish to modify your strut tops or not or if you think your actually getting something better (bling wise) or if you think you can actually tell the difference on a road car between 2 10 degree offset holes. Be a safe bet to say you can't.

 

Oh i know what you mean, road wise it's not fully noticeable but drifting and the likes, the extra camber makes a big difference. But I was just thinking if I wanted to adjust the camber and not castor I can't see any top mounts to do this (say similar to datsun 180 ones where the bearing can slide back and forth but keeping castor fixed) but I could fit the adjustable TCA's to get the extra camber but then this would kick the wheel out wider and might catch the arch?

KSA-Cossie, sorry for hijacking the post

 

running compression struts makes the car very very noisey and harsh to drive

because you are removing all bushings between the tca and the floor of the car, so all road noise is transmitted directly to the floor pan.

the first time i drove mine on comp struts i thought i had broken something, seriously!, every single bump in the road, ends up as a bang on the floor. i never changed any spring rates, or any other settings, they make a horrible road car imo, and i know a lot of people dont run them for this very reason

but the tcas made no difference at all to ride quality imo

 

Thats down to you, ya cunt!

 

i've done it, but to be honest, it wasn't used as an everyday car and i probably only did about 100 miles in it years ago so not really a fair comparrison to someone who would use it everyday

 

i used mine every day with them,

im a criple now

 

Dan - if you want to adjust caster and/or camber do it at the bottom of the wheel where it is most effective. Do not expect to adjust the settings using only a top mount. That should be there to keep the settings not adjust them !!

Running extra negative will theoretically pull the wheel in at the top away from the arch, not towards it.

 

At least you will be able to set the camber to the same both sides......even if you don't want to add extra. It's always interesting to look at your current settings and see how much they vary from side to side.....there's quite a lot of "tolerance" on many older cars

 

"Tolerance" is a polite way of putting it mike.