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One for house people - Wooden floors

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Old 19-03-2009, 08:49 PM
  #41  
Lee Reynolds
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
As it's under 25sm yes.

The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.

I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
Ive told you above mate /\, it goes on minimum of 12mm ply fixed to the sub floor!

Im not saying you CANT fit solid flooring floating or that it wont look good but imo its not the right way...solid flooring is meant to be fixed firmly in place!
Old 19-03-2009, 08:49 PM
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Skirting is not on yet anyway Will go to Wickes and BBQ plus a few other local distributors and have a look at all the different types. So would Engineered wood be happy medium between Laminate and Solid?

Arggh i cant make my mind up. How long do you think it would take to lay a floor like that and do proper job over my area?:
Old 19-03-2009, 08:53 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by fuzzy
as a time served joiner ive never seen that done. not when jobs are getting done properly anyway.
plys fixed down for tiling ,not hardwood floors. floating as already said if on concrete.
If your floating a solid oak floor down the jobs not getting done properly so thats statements insane!

If your a time served joiner you should know, ifyouve never seen it done, work for better firms lol
Old 19-03-2009, 08:55 PM
  #44  
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i have oak all through my hall,living room and lounge,i absolutely love it.it might get dented by high heels,mine hasnt yet even though my wife comes in with them on,the dogs run around on it and theres no damege,theres 1 line at the door where i put a set of keys through the letterbox then opened the door later.with real wood you can sand it loads of times.it doesnt creak either.i have seen a few done that buckle up and move,usually this is caused by not letting the wood aclimatise to the house before laying,we left ours in a room for 2 weeks.its sealed with wax and everything wipes off of it.it is a floor for life where with laminate you will eventually wear through the wood grain effect topcoat where you regularly walk.our wood was 28 a square meter to buy and about 25 a square meter to lay if i remember correctly,that was the cheapest i could get it done for,we were about 2800 all in,the guy that laid it did rip us off as he got through it a hell of a lot quicker than he thought,but a price is a price.
Old 19-03-2009, 08:59 PM
  #45  
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2800? 25 square metres is a bit more than an average living room. thats a days work .

Last edited by fuzzy; 19-03-2009 at 09:00 PM.
Old 19-03-2009, 09:01 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
If your floating a solid oak floor down the jobs not getting done properly so thats statements insane!
Well in that case i'm going to the supplyer's tomorow to tell them to tell the people who machine and grade the wood and who spend millions every year on development of laquers and expansion jointing and then distribute throughout the world that the guidelines they give are wrong, as they are wrong does that mean the LIFETIME structural guarantee that comes with the wood would only be honoured if it was fitted the wrong was as stated in there guidelines for fitting.
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning
Old 19-03-2009, 09:08 PM
  #47  
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Going of measurements i put up, how long would you expect to fit that? Charge etc? Only real odd bit is around bottom of stairs as bottom step comes out and goes around etc.
Old 19-03-2009, 09:10 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
As it's under 25sm yes.

The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.

I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
Well i fit carpets vinyl laminate and solid wood floors and i do the same .
Under 25sqm and if its 22mm thick always do the loose lay thing
Old 19-03-2009, 09:12 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
Well in that case i'm going to the supplyer's tomorow to tell them to tell the people who machine and grade the wood and who spend millions every year on development of laquers and expansion jointing and then distribute throughout the world that the guidelines they give are wrong, as they are wrong does that mean the LIFETIME structural guarantee that comes with the wood would only be honoured if it was fitted the wrong was as stated in there guidelines for fitting.
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning
All thats bollox mate! All that shit is just modern development and shit to cover the DIY'er etc! All about getting the job done quicker like all the rest of the shite that goes off in the building trade!

Im talking about fitting natural, solid oak flooring down in a proper traditional proven method! I wouldnt walk away from a job happy if id only floated it over some underlay on top of a concrete floor!
Old 19-03-2009, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
Well in that case i'm going to the supplyer's tomorow to tell them to tell the people who machine and grade the wood and who spend millions every year on development of laquers and expansion jointing and then distribute throughout the world that the guidelines they give are wrong, as they are wrong does that mean the LIFETIME structural guarantee that comes with the wood would only be honoured if it was fitted the wrong was as stated in there guidelines for fitting.
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning


lol

I got some paperwork for a wood floor that i am fitting on Monday which is 22mm thick think i had better throw it all away and do it Passionford style
Old 19-03-2009, 09:14 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by fuzzy
2800? 25 square metres is a bit more than an average living room. thats a days work .
its a fair sized living room,dining room and a l shaped hallway,it took about 20 hours,i cant remember exactly how many square meters but thats what the wood and overall cost was.i got it from russwood up in inverness.theres a knothole in our living room which i would have made them change but i never noticed till they were gone,the wifes nephew seen it and asked why we had holes in our carpet!
Old 19-03-2009, 09:15 PM
  #52  
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the shape of the step doesnt matter. the jigsaw will see to that. i cant see how that couldnt be done in a day or maybe a day and a couple of hours if skirtings are also going back down. if its going half under any doors they will need to be removed and cut so more time there. for me to do that id be charging 300ish depending on details .
Old 19-03-2009, 09:16 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
All thats bollox mate! All that shit is just modern development and shit to cover the DIY'er etc! All about getting the job done quicker like all the rest of the shite that goes off in the building trade!

Im talking about fitting natural, solid oak flooring down in a proper traditional proven method! I wouldnt walk away from a job happy if id only floated it over some underlay on top of a concrete floor!
M8 you can't say its bollox if as i do i supply the stuff i HAVE to follow the fitting guides etc or any problems it becomes my problem as they supplier says sorry pal you fitted it wrong..
Old 19-03-2009, 09:18 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by fuzzy
as a time served joiner ive never seen that done.
plys fixed down for tiling ,not hardwood floors. floating as already said if on concrete or perhaps on timber battons, foam edged 2x2 or similar..
with the hardwood floors there only 4 inches wide by ramdon lengths so you need to cover the floor with ply to get a decent fixing in it, you could'nt use the 2x2 batterns besause they would be every where.
Old 19-03-2009, 09:20 PM
  #55  
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K Fuzzy ta for est

Chris who do you work for, type wood floorings supply etc?
Old 19-03-2009, 09:22 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds

Im talking about fitting natural, solid oak flooring down in a proper traditional proven method!
What, as opposed to fitting the unnatural solid oak?

Floating floors IS proven!

So you'd fit a 22mm solid on a 12mm base in a hall way under 7sm?
Your raising the floor level by atleast 34mm going into maybe 3/4/5 or more rooms that dont have it running through, so every doorbar would have to be machined for the height and the drop would be fucking stupid,
And you'd walk away from that job happy?
Old 19-03-2009, 09:22 PM
  #57  
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can be levelled up using battons on concrete and fixed to them but could cause problems elsewhere with levels (i.e hall and not other rooms)
Old 19-03-2009, 09:23 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
So thats what a GOOD carpet will cost, look how long a PROPERLY fixed solid oak floor will last though! How much better it will look, and how easy it is to keep clean being in the hallway of all places! Worth the extra few ££ imo Rhys

Im about to fit it into my office!
As long as your mre dont wear her high heals all over it, like mine did

This is the job ive been doing the last 3 weeks. Basically a double (lenght wise) garage conversion into master bed and ensuite with bay window and french doors

Hope to finish off tommrow








They chose a light oak laminate, which i must admit looks ok as We have made up real oak arcitrave and skirting.

Dont know what skirting your using, you say b&q which scares me a little

You be much better going to somewhere like travis perkins, get better service, material and price.

We make our oak on planers and router machines but travis now sell this stuff buy the meter in oak, and its really not that expensive.

Just need to fix with screws and pelets and then laquer it and job done

You have to agree it really sets off the floor.
Old 19-03-2009, 09:24 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Chris Honeywell
M8 you can't say its bollox if as i do i supply the stuff i HAVE to follow the fitting guides etc or any problems it becomes my problem as they supplier says sorry pal you fitted it wrong..
Theres never any fiting guidlines on any proper oak solid T&G flooring we fit! And i KNOW that i wont have to go back to the job when ive fitted it the way ive described anyway as its done right, so i wouldnt need the manufacturers warranty anyways! Only need warranties for things that break down...appliances etc! Not for Wood!

TBH, i wouldnt expect a floor layer to fix it as ive described i wouldnt even expect them to fix it properly over a wooden subfloor! Id expect them to float it over that too as they are floor layers not joiners!
I wouldnt expect a joiner to float one in the same respect!
Old 19-03-2009, 09:24 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rst in breaking
can be levelled up using battons on concrete and fixed to them but could cause problems elsewhere with levels (i.e hall and not other rooms)
Latex im telling you!!
Old 19-03-2009, 09:26 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Lee Ivatt
As long as your mre dont wear her high heals all over it, like mine did

This is the job ive been doing the last 3 weeks. Basically a double (lenght wise) garage conversion into master bed and ensuite with bay window and french doors

Hope to finish off tommrow








They chose a light oak laminate, which i must admit looks ok as We have made up real oak arcitrave and skirting.

Dont know what skirting your using, you say b&q which scares me a little

You be much better going to somewhere like travis perkins, get better service, material and price.

We make our oak on planers and router machines but travis now sell this stuff buy the meter in oak, and its really not that expensive.

Just need to fix with screws and pelets and then laquer it and job done

You have to agree it really sets off the floor.
looks nice mate
Old 19-03-2009, 09:26 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Chris Honeywell

I got some paperwork for a wood floor that i am fitting on Monday which is 22mm thick think i had better throw it all away and do it Passionford style
Old 19-03-2009, 09:27 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Lee Ivatt
Latex im telling you!!
i know mate, i meant for fixing it, as said could ply but battening and leveling instead if far out
Old 19-03-2009, 09:27 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by mrjenrst
What, as opposed to fitting the unnatural solid oak?

Floating floors IS proven!

So you'd fit a 22mm solid on a 12mm base in a hall way under 7sm?
Your raising the floor level by atleast 34mm going into maybe 3/4/5 or more rooms that dont have it running through, so every doorbar would have to be machined for the height and the drop would be fucking stupid,
And you'd walk away from that job happy?
Anyone having solid oak flooring fitted will usually have good carpets and good underlay in the other rooms, the step is fook all. a slight raise at the doorplate....nothing too different to a tiled surface.

No as opposed to fitting engineered oak flooring ,no need to get clever
Old 19-03-2009, 09:28 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by rst in breaking
looks nice mate
Its ok, i tried to convince them to let us make them real oak doors, have white gloss arcitrave and a nice think carpet.

Cant get my head around laminate in a bedoom, buy hey ho customer is always right.
Old 19-03-2009, 09:30 PM
  #66  
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LEE that looks nice mate, laminate does at first look ok but imo not after a couple of years!
Old 19-03-2009, 09:34 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
LEE that looks nice mate, laminate does at first look ok but imo not after a couple of years!
Thanks, not bad from a dingy old shell 3 weeks back.

Will take a picky of the ensuite tommrow. Spent over £1k on having marble made you for the bespoke units and window reveals.

Now you know why the 16i aint had much progress the last 3 weeks
Old 19-03-2009, 09:35 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Chris Honeywell
lol

I got some paperwork for a wood floor that i am fitting on Monday which is 22mm thick think i had better throw it all away and do it Passionford style
LOL ive got my own construction company which carries out work to the highest of standards, but i think i had better start doing the carpentery side of it with the advice off floor layers

How childish

Last edited by Lee Reynolds; 19-03-2009 at 10:02 PM.
Old 19-03-2009, 09:36 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Lee Ivatt
Thanks, not bad from a dingy old shell 3 weeks back.

Will take a picky of the ensuite tommrow. Spent over £1k on having marble made you for the bespoke units and window reveals.

Now you know why the 16i aint had much progress the last 3 weeks
LOL am the same mate mine still aint done, im on with finishing my extension as well as the garden total landscape and running a business! I need a holiday...

Look forward to seeing the marble
Old 19-03-2009, 10:32 PM
  #70  
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What can of Worms Im of to local builder merchant tomorrow as i did choose the Wood flooring but havign few issues getting it. Was solid teaked oak, There is few flooring places by that palce so will have butchers about, just not sure i can afford atm as pain in the arse. I still gotta buy all furniture and rest of building wk has gone OBver budget lol.
Old 19-03-2009, 10:53 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Rhys
What can of Worms Im of to local builder merchant tomorrow as i did choose the Wood flooring but havign few issues getting it. Was solid teaked oak, There is few flooring places by that palce so will have butchers about, just not sure i can afford atm as pain in the arse. I still gotta buy all furniture and rest of building wk has gone OBver budget lol.
LOL yeah sorry Rhys Trouble with the internet mate, your bound to get a clash of views!
Old 19-03-2009, 11:13 PM
  #72  
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Right my understanding was engineered was better for hallway as it didnt react so much to heat, and provided the top layer was nice and thick it's as durable as solid wood.

How is best to lay it on a concrete floor?
Old 20-03-2009, 07:50 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Lee Reynolds
LOL ive got my own construction company which carries out work to the highest of standards, but i think i had better start doing the carpentery side of it with the advice off floor layers

How childish
LOL m8 wood flooring is 80% of my work and i work with a joiners as 80% OF THE WORK IS WOOD RELATED
We do stick quite a bit down but it all depends on the job-house and the situation.
Most if not all of my work is in BATH so its not cheap jobs,
and as i sub-contract to shops i HAVE to follow the fitting advice of the manufactures..

Maybe the manufactures should ask construction company wanna be fat cats to tell them how to fit their products

Anyway i'm off in a min to do a job the wrong way seems i ain't done it right for the last 20 years

Last edited by Chris Honeywell; 20-03-2009 at 07:53 AM.
Old 20-03-2009, 10:56 AM
  #74  
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Laminate is balls end of. Its only a pic of wood with a cheap thin laminate over the top.Good for a year or two tops.
Real wood is much better for wear and tear and can easily be sanded down. Tho its a Joiners job to fit but looks great when done.

Best bet is AMTICO or KARNDEAN, for life span, looks and ease of fitting.
Once down will never move,shrink ,warp crack or any of that stuff. Easy to live with being vinyl , mop it a few times a week and will still be looking great 10+ years on.

Karndean £30 Sq mtr upwards and £15ish per Sq mtr fitting. Excluding 6-8 mm marine Ply subfloor which varies greatly in £. Tho, you have concrete so 1 to 2 bags of latex self leveling screed £20 eash inc the Milk to mix it with.
FAR FAR Better than anything else available imo.
Old 20-03-2009, 12:30 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Lee Ivatt
Its ok, i tried to convince them to let us make them real oak doors, have white gloss arcitrave and a nice think carpet.

Cant get my head around laminate in a bedoom, buy hey ho customer is always right.
When we bought our house it came with laminate in the bedrooms. I actually quite like it now as it doesnt get cold but also doesnt hold dust like carpet.
Old 20-03-2009, 02:58 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Phil
When we bought our house it came with laminate in the bedrooms. I actually quite like it now as it doesnt get cold but also doesnt hold dust like carpet.
my house in germany was laminated in the bedrooms as well and i liked it for the same reasons as you and the lack of dust is good for the missus who has asthma. it does feel a little colder to the touch than real wood though, so i don't know which we'll go for in the bedroom here when we redecorate soon
Old 20-03-2009, 06:32 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Chris Honeywell
construction company wanna be fat cats

Nothing wannabe about my company pal. Just quality craftsmanship from a highly skilled team. Come see for yourself if you like....

20 year experience fitting floor coverings .... nice one...still no joiner though.
Old 20-03-2009, 06:34 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Masonny
. Tho its a Joiners job to fit but looks great when done.

.
Nah its a carpet fitters job Cos it goes on the floor!
Old 20-03-2009, 07:35 PM
  #79  
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Might end up going Laminate only down to price issues. If i was only decorating the one room i would do it with proper wood. but i need to budget for rest of house and dont think i can justify it Bit gutted, just its 3 times price of Laminate really.
Old 20-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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have you seen the beveled edged vinyl wood effect floor tiles? really good wearing and dont feel cold on the feet!


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