any heating engineers/plumbers about today? pics now
06-01-2009, 07:05 PM
#41
10K+ Poster!!
Defo strange that it bangs when it first comes on the settles down.
Seems like its not circulating at first then the air maybe clears out the pump then it works.
Defo drain the system if poss after running it with cleanser then put a bottle of inhibitor then refil and try.
A new pump might help too.
Seems like its not circulating at first then the air maybe clears out the pump then it works.
Defo drain the system if poss after running it with cleanser then put a bottle of inhibitor then refil and try.
A new pump might help too.
06-01-2009, 07:08 PM
#42
PassionFord Post Whore!!
It's pumping over because by design the pump is in the wrong place, but it will probably work if you turn it back to no.2. (no pumping over)
The Brass collector, is an automatic air vent.
It should collect any air that's around that area and if the cap is slightly open will let the air out till it's full of water then seal itself. They are used all over the large buildings I work on.
They sometimes fail and won't reseal but you can still use them as a way of collecting small amounts of air.
Any chance of a photo of the manual heating, water valve?
Or a pic of the pipework around the pump and the vent going up to the loft tank.?
.
The Brass collector, is an automatic air vent.
It should collect any air that's around that area and if the cap is slightly open will let the air out till it's full of water then seal itself. They are used all over the large buildings I work on.
They sometimes fail and won't reseal but you can still use them as a way of collecting small amounts of air.
Any chance of a photo of the manual heating, water valve?
Or a pic of the pipework around the pump and the vent going up to the loft tank.?
.
06-01-2009, 07:08 PM
#43
Youve got to find the cold feed supply in the airing cupboard first,(depending of the design and age of system) its normaly above the pump and near or attached to the air separater (looks like a swirl pot).
Drain the system first,
If you've got a compression tee peice near or attached to the air sep, undo and remove it,
If the pump is attached to the same piece of pipe undo the top of the pump (if you can) and normaly the blockage SHOULD be between.
If not, you better get someone in!
Drain the system first,
If you've got a compression tee peice near or attached to the air sep, undo and remove it,
If the pump is attached to the same piece of pipe undo the top of the pump (if you can) and normaly the blockage SHOULD be between.
If not, you better get someone in!
06-01-2009, 07:09 PM
#44
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06-01-2009, 07:12 PM
#45
Defo strange that it bangs when it first comes on the settles down.
Seems like its not circulating at first then the air maybe clears out the pump then it works.
Defo drain the system if poss after running it with cleanser then put a bottle of inhibitor then refil and try.
A new pump might help too.
Seems like its not circulating at first then the air maybe clears out the pump then it works.
Defo drain the system if poss after running it with cleanser then put a bottle of inhibitor then refil and try.
A new pump might help too.
06-01-2009, 07:14 PM
#48
It's pumping over because by design the pump is in the wrong place, but it will probably work if you turn it back to no.2. (no pumping over)
The Brass collector, is an automatic air vent.
It should collect any air that's around that area and if the cap is slightly open will let the air out till it's full of water then seal itself. They are used all over the large buildings I work on.
They sometimes fail and won't reseal but you can still use them as a way of collecting small amounts of air.
Any chance of a photo of the manual heating, water valve?
Or a pic of the pipework around the pump and the vent going up to the loft tank.?
.
The Brass collector, is an automatic air vent.
It should collect any air that's around that area and if the cap is slightly open will let the air out till it's full of water then seal itself. They are used all over the large buildings I work on.
They sometimes fail and won't reseal but you can still use them as a way of collecting small amounts of air.
Any chance of a photo of the manual heating, water valve?
Or a pic of the pipework around the pump and the vent going up to the loft tank.?
.
i dont think the collector has filled with water, but i suppose i wouldnt be able to tell. there is an inline shut off valve that i have now closed - should i reopen this?
ill go get the camera
06-01-2009, 07:16 PM
#49
Youve got to find the cold feed supply in the airing cupboard first,(depending of the design and age of system) its normaly above the pump and near or attached to the air separater (looks like a swirl pot).
Drain the system first,
If you've got a compression tee peice near or attached to the air sep, undo and remove it,
If the pump is attached to the same piece of pipe undo the top of the pump (if you can) and normaly the blockage SHOULD be between.
If not, you better get someone in!
Drain the system first,
If you've got a compression tee peice near or attached to the air sep, undo and remove it,
If the pump is attached to the same piece of pipe undo the top of the pump (if you can) and normaly the blockage SHOULD be between.
If not, you better get someone in!
06-01-2009, 07:19 PM
#51
PassionFord Post Whore!!
06-01-2009, 07:33 PM
#52
Well then, my best advice to you is:
Get the house up for sale quick,
Make sure the heating is on before anyone calls to view,
Turn the heating off just before they arrive,
Deny all knowledge that the system is old and fucked.
Job done.
06-01-2009, 07:58 PM
#53
Regular Contributor
you could cut the cold feed and blank it off and then join the cold feed into the open vent and then put some sludge buster in and run for a few days then refill with inhibiter should cure the problem
06-01-2009, 08:31 PM
#57
piiiics.
overall of the pile..
removed control panel, this is the pump with speed switch
tried to get one of the bleed screw, its on the top of the pump in the middle, very hard to get to note the black wire
now, i tried to move the wire to get a pic of the screw, and when i touched it it cut the gas out! its connected to the black round thing with the red button in the middle. im guessing this is the thermal cutout for the boiler? the red button did not pop out.
its connected to somwhere behind the pilot button, and under the temp control knob in the pics above
i had an idea that, as the wire was touching the pump, which was fookin hot, it may be causing it to cut out so re routed it
now, up in the airing cupbourd, this is the valve and collector thingy
overall with as much pipe work as i could get
far left goes into the top of the emersion tank (luke warm so poss cold feed?)
middle left is very cold so cold feed to boiler?
middle right, thin pipe is the inlet from the tank in loft, has a T that goes to around the middle of emersion tank - hot up to T, and coldish after unless it bubbles up lol
closest right is fucking hot and Ts into the far left cold pipe into top of emersion, and goes down
lower pipework.
collector thing: thin pipe at top goes round to rear of emersion at the bottom, also had a drain
big pipe from valve goes down, and pipe up to valve goes down. all fookin hot
that help?
overall of the pile..
removed control panel, this is the pump with speed switch
tried to get one of the bleed screw, its on the top of the pump in the middle, very hard to get to note the black wire
now, i tried to move the wire to get a pic of the screw, and when i touched it it cut the gas out! its connected to the black round thing with the red button in the middle. im guessing this is the thermal cutout for the boiler? the red button did not pop out.
its connected to somwhere behind the pilot button, and under the temp control knob in the pics above
i had an idea that, as the wire was touching the pump, which was fookin hot, it may be causing it to cut out so re routed it
now, up in the airing cupbourd, this is the valve and collector thingy
overall with as much pipe work as i could get
far left goes into the top of the emersion tank (luke warm so poss cold feed?)
middle left is very cold so cold feed to boiler?
middle right, thin pipe is the inlet from the tank in loft, has a T that goes to around the middle of emersion tank - hot up to T, and coldish after unless it bubbles up lol
closest right is fucking hot and Ts into the far left cold pipe into top of emersion, and goes down
lower pipework.
collector thing: thin pipe at top goes round to rear of emersion at the bottom, also had a drain
big pipe from valve goes down, and pipe up to valve goes down. all fookin hot
that help?
06-01-2009, 08:46 PM
#58
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The pie that comes from the top of the immersion tank and goes down at the t is your hot water feed to the taps.
The hot water flow from the boiler comes into the back of the servoflow and then get directed to either rads or tank coil by the switch on the front.
Thats as much as i know about the plumber side as im a sparky by trade.
The hot water flow from the boiler comes into the back of the servoflow and then get directed to either rads or tank coil by the switch on the front.
Thats as much as i know about the plumber side as im a sparky by trade.
06-01-2009, 09:04 PM
#61
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Turn off the boiler and pump.
Put the manual valve half way.
Open the in-line valve and undo the brass cap on top of the vent.
Wait till the air is out, screw in brass cap, shut in-line valve.
Start boiler and pump.
The pump shouldn't be mounted screw up it should face out, but it looks like the boiler was designed for it to only fit in that way.
Is there a bleed screw at the top of the boiler?
When you next drain it and refill, keep the brass cap on the vent open, and the valve half way with the in-line valve open, as it fills to let the air out as it fills.
.
.
Put the manual valve half way.
Open the in-line valve and undo the brass cap on top of the vent.
Wait till the air is out, screw in brass cap, shut in-line valve.
Start boiler and pump.
The pump shouldn't be mounted screw up it should face out, but it looks like the boiler was designed for it to only fit in that way.
Is there a bleed screw at the top of the boiler?
When you next drain it and refill, keep the brass cap on the vent open, and the valve half way with the in-line valve open, as it fills to let the air out as it fills.
.
.
Last edited by focusv8; 06-01-2009 at 09:10 PM.
06-01-2009, 09:15 PM
#63
Turn off the boiler and pump.
Put the manual valve half way.
Open the in-line valve and undo the brass cap on top of the vent.
Wait till the air is out, screw in brass cap, shut in-line valve.
Start boiler and pump.
The pump shouldn't be mounted screw up it should face out, but it looks like the boiler was designed for it to only fit in that way.
Is there a bleed screw at the top of the boiler?
When you next drain it and refill, keep the brass cap on the vent open, and the valve half way with the in-line valve open, as it fills to let the air out as it fills.
.
.
Put the manual valve half way.
Open the in-line valve and undo the brass cap on top of the vent.
Wait till the air is out, screw in brass cap, shut in-line valve.
Start boiler and pump.
The pump shouldn't be mounted screw up it should face out, but it looks like the boiler was designed for it to only fit in that way.
Is there a bleed screw at the top of the boiler?
When you next drain it and refill, keep the brass cap on the vent open, and the valve half way with the in-line valve open, as it fills to let the air out as it fills.
.
.
or should it be done repeatedly?
there is deffo still a lot of air in the system
thanks mate
06-01-2009, 09:22 PM
#64
looks like a std type pump m8 if its the cold feed banging have u tried backing off the stop cock so theres less flow??
it could be you have too much pressure hence to pipe bangs once the water is on
Bet your worried about ficking the heating on when u just got little one of to sleep
Paul
it could be you have too much pressure hence to pipe bangs once the water is on
Bet your worried about ficking the heating on when u just got little one of to sleep
Paul
06-01-2009, 09:26 PM
#66
looks like a std type pump m8 if its the cold feed banging have u tried backing off the stop cock so theres less flow??
it could be you have too much pressure hence to pipe bangs once the water is on
Bet your worried about ficking the heating on when u just got little one of to sleep
Paul
it could be you have too much pressure hence to pipe bangs once the water is on
Bet your worried about ficking the heating on when u just got little one of to sleep
Paul
the stopcock doesnt flow unless the water level in the tank drops, and that will take a litre or two. so i dont think its that
06-01-2009, 09:43 PM
#68
It needs to be cold mate for it bleed properly i've been told
Try turning your mains in stop cock off a little to reduce flow the sudden opening of the ballcock in the header might cause it to bang if you have too much mains water pressure
btw i going to re read this post
Paul
Try turning your mains in stop cock off a little to reduce flow the sudden opening of the ballcock in the header might cause it to bang if you have too much mains water pressure
btw i going to re read this post
Paul
07-01-2009, 05:41 AM
#74
right, heating came on at 5am, its been banginge like fuck and just wont stay on, keeps cutting out.
the upstairs rads are hot, not as hot as normal, but the downstairs rads are stone cold. i cant have this with the little boy in the house as its fooking freezing.
where can i get a pump from, or is it a complete boiler thats needed?
if we get a boiler, been told that we need to have all the pipework redone too. so major money.
might just get a propper engineer out first, but ideally a time served older chap, as the young lad that came round xmas before last to service it, was quite frankly, fucking useless.
andone in swindon got any recomendations? used AHS heating and plumbing last time.
cheers everyone.
the upstairs rads are hot, not as hot as normal, but the downstairs rads are stone cold. i cant have this with the little boy in the house as its fooking freezing.
where can i get a pump from, or is it a complete boiler thats needed?
if we get a boiler, been told that we need to have all the pipework redone too. so major money.
might just get a propper engineer out first, but ideally a time served older chap, as the young lad that came round xmas before last to service it, was quite frankly, fucking useless.
andone in swindon got any recomendations? used AHS heating and plumbing last time.
cheers everyone.
07-01-2009, 05:48 AM
#75
dan get the pump changed as i said before!! its fitted wrong anyway as said before it needs to be fitted with the head facing you
you might be able to hear it running but it will still be fucked
a pump is around Ł60 and ya should be lookin at Ł40 to Ł60 to fit it
the pumps are a standard fit mate 99.9% are all the same size (fitting wise) yours looks like a grundfos 15/50 go to screwfix and get a cheep 1 if ya just want to get it going on the cheap
pete
Last edited by 3drpete; 07-01-2009 at 05:54 AM.
07-01-2009, 06:11 AM
#76
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Try closing down the upstairs rad valves to half way, that should push some hot water through the downstairs ones.
If / when you fit the pump, it looks like you will have to drain the whole system as there is usually isolating valves either side of the pump and you don't have them.
Unless they are under the boiler?
Check the arrow on the old pump for flow direction and fit the new one the same way.
.
If / when you fit the pump, it looks like you will have to drain the whole system as there is usually isolating valves either side of the pump and you don't have them.
Unless they are under the boiler?
Check the arrow on the old pump for flow direction and fit the new one the same way.
.
07-01-2009, 04:58 PM
#77
cheers guys.
i rang the plumbers i mentioned earlier and an engineer is coming round on friday to look.
no doubt they will try to sell us a complete boiler and system etc.
i got home about 5.45, the heating was on since 4pm and not got hot at all downstairs.
i then whacked the pump with a big screwdriver a few times, and now 2 of the 3 rads are getting hot lol.
draining the system to fit a new pump isnt a prob, as i need to drain all the fast clense out anyway.
i rang the plumbers i mentioned earlier and an engineer is coming round on friday to look.
no doubt they will try to sell us a complete boiler and system etc.
i got home about 5.45, the heating was on since 4pm and not got hot at all downstairs.
i then whacked the pump with a big screwdriver a few times, and now 2 of the 3 rads are getting hot lol.
draining the system to fit a new pump isnt a prob, as i need to drain all the fast clense out anyway.
done mine on my last system took me about 30 mins