Brick garages & dampness discuss
22-11-2008, 04:41 PM
#1
Brick garages & dampness discuss
My garage is all brick at my new house & my car is due back from paint but the garage is very damp the roof aint leaking is there anything i can do to solve this? what kind of heating do ppl have in garages im not made of money so getting heating pipes off the boiler isnt a option.
22-11-2008, 04:51 PM
#4
carlo i have a all brick garage and its fine for condensation.tho it is really cold.make sure there is some vents in it to let the air move plus prob the best thing is a dehumidifier.i have got a heater in mines aswell.was gona try insulatin it tho to save having a heater etc on.
22-11-2008, 04:58 PM
#6
10K+ Poster!!
tubular heaters are cheap and have low running costs
they come in various sizes from 1ft - 5ft and various power ratings 40W - 300W
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/sunhouse-240w-...1%7C240%3A1318
a plug in thermostat would be ideal to control it too, so its not running when the air is warm enough
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ET05-PLUG-IN-T...ayphotohosting
they come in various sizes from 1ft - 5ft and various power ratings 40W - 300W
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/sunhouse-240w-...1%7C240%3A1318
a plug in thermostat would be ideal to control it too, so its not running when the air is warm enough
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ET05-PLUG-IN-T...ayphotohosting
22-11-2008, 05:04 PM
#7
tubular heaters are cheap and have low running costs
they come in various sizes from 1ft - 5ft and various power ratings 40W - 300W
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/sunhouse-240w-...1%7C240%3A1318
a plug in thermostat would be ideal to control it too, so its not running when the air is warm enough
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ET05-PLUG-IN-T...ayphotohosting
they come in various sizes from 1ft - 5ft and various power ratings 40W - 300W
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/sunhouse-240w-...1%7C240%3A1318
a plug in thermostat would be ideal to control it too, so its not running when the air is warm enough
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ET05-PLUG-IN-T...ayphotohosting
i would like to see if those would work mate at only 240w.i have a 2000w heater in my garage and it just keeps it about right.but i dont keep it on all the time cos i think it would be a fortune.got it on a timer to come on between 12-4 in the morning to take the sting out the air.carlo if you want to come get my heater to try it and see what itl be like in your garage batter in.the heaters above i think would be good for a room in your house that is already insulated well.
as mentioned before make sure there is some vents as this can be a source of the problem.
Trending Topics
22-11-2008, 05:23 PM
#8
A bit of water is coming in the floor i think through the brick dont know if i need to dig some dirt at the side so it dosent seep through the brick.I saw they heaters if they are cheap to run i will get them.Yes its corrigated roof as well but is foam insulated under the sheets
22-11-2008, 05:23 PM
#9
10K+ Poster!!
i know what you mean, a 240W heater isnt going to keep your garage at 30 degrees, but its going to help keep the temp up a bit, and as its gonna cost fuck all to run really, you could leave it on all the time. Or stick a big heater in like yours but worry about the leccy bill 
22-11-2008, 06:09 PM
#11
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Dehumidify the garage for a week or so so the wall's and floor are dry then seal the brickwork and concrete, once thats done get a heater to run between 5 and 10 degrees.
The problem you will have is to whether the concrete was allowed to dry fully when it set, if not it could have had moisture from day 1.
The problem you will have is to whether the concrete was allowed to dry fully when it set, if not it could have had moisture from day 1.
22-11-2008, 06:16 PM
#12
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a dehumidifier in the corner of my garage. It is on permanently and switches on and off periodically. It takes about 5 litres a week out of the air. It feeds into a sealed plastic barrel. Nothing rusts in the garage.
Mine is an Ebac Humidex something. Like this:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1057/...8b0dec9a_m.jpg
I've had one for eight years and it eventually stopped working so I bought a new one recently for around a hundred quid.
Charlie
Mine is an Ebac Humidex something. Like this:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1057/...8b0dec9a_m.jpg
I've had one for eight years and it eventually stopped working so I bought a new one recently for around a hundred quid.
Charlie
22-11-2008, 08:06 PM
#19
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 893
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just put some air bricks into the garage...Its probably condensation rather than damp,you need the air to circualte properly.
I'd say putting heaters into a garage that has bad ventilation(if that is your problem) will make things worse..as i found out once before.
I'd say putting heaters into a garage that has bad ventilation(if that is your problem) will make things worse..as i found out once before.
22-11-2008, 08:13 PM
#20
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
ive got a heater and had a dehumidifier but i didnt notice alot of diffrence with dehumidifier so dont use it now.mines is insulated also.
22-11-2008, 08:15 PM
#22
i got 2 of these 5ft long ones 1 for each side of the garage going to turn them on tomoz not tried them yet also got dehumidifier to try as well but get more damp in the house in the fitted wardrobes that are mounted on outside wall there is an air brick in the wall which is located in the wardrobe we have to open the wardrobe doors at night when we have the heating to try and circuilate the air
need to really get some damp experts in but who the hell do you use and how much is it going to cost
23-11-2008, 03:22 PM
#23
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
You say it's damp, but where is the damp at?
The floor wet, or is the bricks wet to touch?
Did you build the garage, or was it part of the house when built?
There could be DPC or DPM missing, therefore you could be fighting a loosing battle.
Ventilation is key to reducing the dampness inside.
There is different routes that you could take, i.e. sticking polysterene (spelling!) on the walls, then plyboarding over it. Sticking insulation above too. That is cheap to do.
Do this before heating, or else your just as well opening the garage door with the heater on!
The floor wet, or is the bricks wet to touch?
Did you build the garage, or was it part of the house when built?
There could be DPC or DPM missing, therefore you could be fighting a loosing battle.
Ventilation is key to reducing the dampness inside.
There is different routes that you could take, i.e. sticking polysterene (spelling!) on the walls, then plyboarding over it. Sticking insulation above too. That is cheap to do.
Do this before heating, or else your just as well opening the garage door with the heater on!
23-11-2008, 04:01 PM
#24
Advanced PassionFord User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Killie
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're getting damp at the floor level, dig about a foot down all round it. With it being a garage, its probably never had a DPC installed so keeping the ground outside lower is a good idea. And it'll never do any harm to insulate it inside.
If you put a heater in it without insulating it, you'll most likely end up with condensation.
The silica gel suggestion above isnt so stupid but try using chalk or tubs of talc with the tops cut off them. It'll surprise you how much they suck in and are cheap.
If you put a heater in it without insulating it, you'll most likely end up with condensation.
The silica gel suggestion above isnt so stupid but try using chalk or tubs of talc with the tops cut off them. It'll surprise you how much they suck in and are cheap.
23-11-2008, 04:05 PM
#25
You say it's damp, but where is the damp at?
The floor wet, or is the bricks wet to touch?
Did you build the garage, or was it part of the house when built?
There could be DPC or DPM missing, therefore you could be fighting a loosing battle.
Ventilation is key to reducing the dampness inside.
There is different routes that you could take, i.e. sticking polysterene (spelling!) on the walls, then plyboarding over it. Sticking insulation above too. That is cheap to do.
Do this before heating, or else your just as well opening the garage door with the heater on!
The floor wet, or is the bricks wet to touch?
Did you build the garage, or was it part of the house when built?
There could be DPC or DPM missing, therefore you could be fighting a loosing battle.
Ventilation is key to reducing the dampness inside.
There is different routes that you could take, i.e. sticking polysterene (spelling!) on the walls, then plyboarding over it. Sticking insulation above too. That is cheap to do.
Do this before heating, or else your just as well opening the garage door with the heater on!
if its not got either, then your dampness is more than likely coming from the floor! is there a cavity in the walls or is it single brick built?
there is things that you can do to sort the dampness but a dehumidifier may be the cheapest option!!
23-11-2008, 05:46 PM
#29
20K+ Super Poster.
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Local, when i'm home...
Posts: 22,888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
23-11-2008, 06:17 PM
#30
Havent got a clue about rendering ect the side its leaking im told is because there is soil at that side & when wet its seaping through the brick im told to dig a channel down the side so the water can run instead of soaking through
the side its leaking im told is because there is soil at that side & when wet its seaping through the brick im told to dig a channel down the side so the water can run instead of soaking through
23-11-2008, 06:54 PM
#31
Professional Waffler
Well does breeze block show outside or is it sand cement rendered? I cant see how you cant know but anyways
Yes all paths and soil etc must be below the height of the garage base or water WILL get in.
Heating a garage with no insulation is complete bollocks and a waste of time and money...you will still get damp.
you need to make sure all ground level like i say is below the concrete base
Make sure there is plenty of ventilation....even if it makes it a little bit colder, cold doesnt rot a car and cold doesnt make condesntion.
Run a little dehumidifier just to take away some of the moiture in the air.
My garage is well ventilated and i run a small dehumidifier and everything is bone dry
Yes all paths and soil etc must be below the height of the garage base or water WILL get in.
Heating a garage with no insulation is complete bollocks and a waste of time and money...you will still get damp.
you need to make sure all ground level like i say is below the concrete base
Make sure there is plenty of ventilation....even if it makes it a little bit colder, cold doesnt rot a car and cold doesnt make condesntion.
Run a little dehumidifier just to take away some of the moiture in the air.
My garage is well ventilated and i run a small dehumidifier and everything is bone dry
24-11-2008, 12:28 PM
#38
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
When you dig the channel, throw in either chuckies, or lay a 110mm soil pipe with drilled holes around it, then throw in chuckies.
Make sure the pipe is slopped towards a drain or down the street. That will lead the water away and not cause issues elsewhere.
Rendering the breeze blocks will help it greatly and will also make it look more nicer too.
Make sure the pipe is slopped towards a drain or down the street. That will lead the water away and not cause issues elsewhere.
Rendering the breeze blocks will help it greatly and will also make it look more nicer too.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rsguy
General Car Related Discussion.
44
29-09-2015 03:29 PM
PRO-LINE MOTORSPORT
General Car Related Discussion.
5
28-09-2015 09:54 PM
