I previously posted about water entering chambre number 3, and spraying from the exhaust exit of the head.
I have just removed the head to try and discover the fault, and have unveiled the following concerns.
I have noticed some scoring to bore number 3, and it is not common to all bores, and am worried as this is the chambre which had the fault.





Also, there is some distortion to the face of some of the valves, which i am unaware of what is causing this.



What do people recommend for these symptoms, and what is likely to have caused these problems.
I was expecting to find a crack in the head or some indication of head gasket failure, but have not found any evidence of either, however, i am aware there is the possibility of a crack inside the head that is not visible by eye and would require pressure testing.

Any help or comment much appreciated.

Cheers.

 

doesent look bad to me?
Was the headgasket gone?
Did u do a komp test before you liftet the head?

 

poss clean the valves as i cant tell if its just carbon deposits? have you got pics of the other bores? it doesnt look like hone marks to me, was thier water in the bore?

 

the compression was strong and even across all four. Water would spray out from the head when revs rose, which im assuming was increasing the water pressure and possibly forcing water through crack, although im not 100% sure of this. I'm not ruling out the possibility of a failed gasket just yet.

 

all valves will look like that after a period of time; especially the exhaust valves

the bores dont look too bad to be honest (maybe a little scored); i thought it looked quite clean to be honest

has it recently been bored or honed?

you might well find a crack in the head but sometimes cracks are so small you cant spot them; only a test will prove either way

 

post up pics of the rest of the bores & pistons and of the rest of the valves

 

cheers for your help.

I am not currently with the car to take more pics, but will add more later.

The other bores did appear alot cleaner than this bore, this is why i was concerned. I dont beleive the bores have been machined for quite some time so they are not fresh machining marks.

The valves appear to have a bubbling affect on them, which looks like overheating expansion/distortion.

 

another pic of valve side on, sorry about shit quality, valve slightly open.

 

you need to dye pen the block and head to ensure that none of them aire
cracked

 

it is common for head gaskets to go on exhaust side and spray, clean the engine up whack it in and spank it.

 

get the head checked & take it from there, bores look ok though, can you feel the scores with your thumb/finger nail?

 

looking at the score lines its clearly visable a few of them are higher than the top ring mark, so imo its been caused by the water washing all the dirt down between bore and piston.

how deep are they? the question is, are the rings damaged....the rings have defiantly caught the dirt, as you can see various height marks on the scores


if that was my engine i personally would, drop sump, remove pistons, de glaze bore, re ring pistons, replace big end shells

 

ive striped the head ready for a crack test i managed to get that crap of the valves i thought they were knacked eg slightly melted but it turned out just to be heavy deposits..

as for the bore the marks can't be felt by hand how much work is it to lift the engine out at this stage?

looks like the water washed the oil away leting the rings scratch...
who reacons rebuild?

 

no need for a full build, just top and tail it, new rings, and glaze bust the bore

i would leave the block in the car



or you could leave it,

 

i did still have compression before i lifted the head on that cylinder does that mean the rings will be ok.... whats involved in geting the sump off on a 4x4 it looks a nightmare!!! the escort cossies are such a pain to work on compared to the saphs!!

 

agreed

you just need one of these tools; any half decent motor factors will stock them...i got mine for Camberleys..they look like this; just stick in on a drill

use some brake fluid on the blades and start gently; it will get rid of the scratches on the bores and bring it up like new

 

can that tool be used with the piston still fited?

 

right off the top of my head.

jack it up, remove both wheels
remove both driveshafts including sump shaft
get the arb out the way
remove front diff
remove starter
disconnect rack/column joint and remove ps pump from engine with all hoses, so the rack and pump and hoses will come away with the crossmember
drop front crossmember, supporting under gearbox so the weight sits on the gearbox when the crossmember is dropped (blocks of wood)
when the crossmember is dropped, remove sump.


just a couple of hours mate

 

To bo honest for me it's obiously engine-out-and-to-the-machinists job.