.

 

you should be able to adjust the rod if you slacken teh nut off and lock it back in place when done

 

Rod screws in to adjust it before you fit it - rule of thumb is to set it with half a hole preload - i.e. set it so that you dont place it over, set it so that you need to pull it over by half a hole if that makes sense!

 

the cover that screws onto the actuator rod is screwed on as far as it can go

 

Well unscrew it all the way then & chop the rod down!

 

yes that was like that with my old actuator you had to pull the rod about half a hole to fit onto the wastegate arm, with this new actuator you need to pull the wastegate arm onto the rod.

 

use some man skills as above

 

just started raining

i will cut about 4mm off the rod tomorrow so it will keep the wastegate shut!

 

well cut about 4mm off as you lot advised on and it keeps the wastegate arm closed she will boost to around 6psi.

problem is its going in to be set up next week and upped to 8psi (standard boost) but theres only a few turns of thread left before it runs out on the actuator it has STD stamped on it if that helps.

 

that would work

steve

 

thanks mate, just means i will have some extra thread on the rod so the boost can be turned up to 8psi when i get it set up

 

wait wait wait wait wait!

std actuator with correct preload will hit about 3-4psi

-31 actuator with correct preload will hit about 7 or 8

-34 about 14

(nb not accurate figures)

the cars acheive higher boost via a boost control device IE an "amal valve/bleed valve"

set the actuator to the CORRECT preload and adjust your boost with your bleed valve.

don't overtension your actuator youll just damage it

 

thanks jim, well ive wound it down to that length just to keep the wastegate arm closed as it should be, any further wound out and it keeps the wastegate arm open a tiny bit. have only driven the car around the corner for about 0.3 miles just to see what boost it held at which was 6psi.

 

Especially not for a T2 actuator.....