whats my best option here

is the amal valve sufficient

i used to run a bleedvalve

would air injectors be a better option or an in car boost controller?

im not too clued up in this department

 

what do you need it to do?

air injectors are fantastic if you suffer from surge, as they are bleed on, so you can map the surge out by bleeding air to open the wastegate which slows the turbo stoping the surge,

they need to be live mapped though really

the amal valve in reality has very little control over your boost, tbh its wide open most of the time, if you looked at your amal valve table it would be full of "ff"

 

air injectors are very good for presise boost control

 

its just my amal valve makes some mad clicking noise like a relay and car has dropped boost some how james

although id like to be able to change psi from inside car

 

Can air injectors work with most ECU's?

 

you can get aftermarket boost controllers that are bleed on, but they need a mapping session to sort them out.

what ecu do you run? can you not run a 12 position boost controller?

 

not overly sure on other applications.all the webers can though i belive

 

interesting thread!so at what point do you need to go over to air injectors?

 

collins performance ecu

 

anytime you need to be able to map your boost! this could be at stage 3 if you wanted the boost delivered smoothly to save a diff or box,

 

not sure what they can run mate, i know the L8 cant do closed loop and 12 position boost control together, as you simply run out of room

 

How about this col with a single air injector http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=230295159083

 

that would be the answer, having that mapped on air injectors, if his ecu will run them!

 

Air to air injectors will work with almost any ECU. As long as it has boost control tables it will generally be able to control an air to air.

Omex ECUs will run air to air no problem.

 

Ok, whats air injectors got over say a hks/blitz/GReddy type electronic type boost controller?

 

https://passionford.com/forum/technical-essay-archives/86079-air-injectors-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-work.html

 

Read it mate, didnt really answer my question tbh. Far as I see it, air inectors are expensive and out of date when compared to modern boost controlers which only seem to have one down side and that being ecu control for backing off boost when required ie engine safety etc??

 

what about a twin port actuator kit are they worth the bother?!

 

What about this?
Saw this set up on some of the turbocharged rallycross supercars, purely mechanical......

http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0670

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0685/article.html

 

i know 4k all about air injectors,i have asked but never told a real answer of when needing them,as for a bleed valve . . are you mad ? i wouldnt touch one of them with a barge pole even if i had a standard rst.i suspect your car is a lot more spent on/played tuned whatever,i still use amal valve but last time mine was rr it was only 310 so my post to you is totally useless i think,sorry.

 

With a decent(right) ecu you can control the boost perfectly, I have different boost levels on all three maps, vastly better control when letting off throttle as than some as a lot do not only boost against rpm but also against tps.
I have the std amal valve, never wanted air injectors, particularly when they fail you melt your engine, when an amal fails you just lose boost not your engine, I know which I prefer.
tabetha

 

the mad clicking as you refer to it as, is likely to be it switching due to a loose terminal or broken/damaged wire. either check the connections to terminals are on correctly and not corroded or replace the amal valve as the terminals have a habbit of becoming wobbly and losing contact. if you just want 2 stage boost control ie low and high a switch can be wired to the valve so for low boost the amal valve thinks engine is cold or too hot and for higher boost it is as normal/high boost
to know for sure if this is the problem with your drop in power just unplug it and this will be low boost if no change in boost pressure then you know its your problem
cheers Chris

 

is this correct? i have a friend whos amal failed and it ran a shit load of boost and killed the engine and turbo

 

Not really true . If the air injectors fail, that does NOT mean that the engine instantly melts .

It's just that some set-ups fail "safe" (meaning only actuator boost pressure), where if air-injectors fail, you get no boost control and you effectively have unlimited boost. However, you can set everything up, so that in this form your "unlimited" boost is the peak boost anyway. Mine has been done this way, so that if I disconnect the air injectors, I have no boost control, but 2.2 bar fixed.

Obviously if you don't have these set up like this, then it does have the potential to melt the engine, but only if you are a complete numpty, as 1. You should have a gauge that when this happens, it will be obvious with the first press of the throttle when the boost gauge shoots past it's normal peak. 2. If you don't have a gauge, then the car will certainly feel VERY different. The induction noise will be drastically increased and the car will suddenly (and briefly ) feel MUCH faster than normal. If you ignore these signs, you're a fucking numpty anyway .

 

Mike: any well mapped car should run boost-cut, shouldn't it?

 

In theory that would be best, and you could certainly do it if the engine had not been mapped beyond the limits of the map sensor. However, in Cossie tuning, people tend to go a fraction beyond the 3 bar's limits and extrapolate the fuelling etc. Not ideal, but precludes a boost limit on these set-ups (especially with a large turbo's tendancy to briefly over-shoot).

 

not sure

i know i've had a problem where the pipe that goes from the amal to the compressor house came off and the turbo just kept making boost - i knew there was something wrong as my boost went off the dial

 

Ahh yes, forgot about this. Damn. The problem is Cossies run such huge boost pressures + OEM management, you don't usually get this problem elsewhere. Hopefully I know that mine get's the boost cut

 

col

why not go with what your tuner suggests?

 

ive checked all connections and wiring and all good,could be faulty valve thanks

 

im going to chop just not had time to get car through yet

 

been there, done that, got the skiddies to prove a T3 can make 30psi if you cock it up

The other reason the amal valve will click its nuts off will be if there's too much preload on the actuator - at least that's what I found when i attached a working one to my Saff. I'd manually adjusted the actuator to deliver 15psi, but had no idea the amal valve was dead. As soon as I spanked it in 2nd with a working amal valve, the needle on the boost gauge nearly snapped off as it bounced of 30psi, while I, ever the stiff upper lipped type, spunked in my pants, and shit myself as it hit Warp Factor 9. Suffice to say, the rod's a little longer now, and I'm a little wiser.

 

I was always under the impressioin that the amal failed safe ?
tabetha

 

it does, because if it fails it wont bleed off, meaning you run actuator pressure

 

It does.

Chris tried to compensate though, as he wound the actuator up to it's limit so that it gave 15psi with a NON-working AMAL valve, so as soon as he put a working one one - warp factor 9 and 30psi, as it was then doing what it should, so he got silly boost .