b_kennedy

Hi guys! Hoping you can help. There are hardly any capri forums and even the ones that exist are useless.

1.) The water in the coolant system is brown. I want to run a hose through the system to clean out all the crap. Can anyone tell me which hose i should put the water hose in and which one i should take off to get rid of the crap please?

2.) Also where is the water fill line on expansion tank? there a metal tab inside. is that it? Or do i fill from the top of the rad?

3.) What sort of oil can i use as it needs topping up?

4.) Is it right that there is no timing belt? Have been told it is chain. Just wandered as I would like to change if it is belt.

5.) Where abouts is the aerial located for the stereo as I cant find one?

6.) Have no idea what the lights are for on the dash Has anyone got a link to a manual or anything. Much apprecaited!!!

Paulo P

1. Probably remove the bottom rad hose.

2. Don't know.

3. Not sure.

4. The 2.8 is actually cog driven, it was the 2.9 that was chain driven.

5. Ariel should be on the nearside front wing I think

6. No, sorry. I've got a 3.0s mark 2 in my garage but I don't think I have a manual.

Hope that helps a little.

b_kennedy

yeah a little bit fella. thanks

Which pipe should i run the water through after removing the bottom hose!

for the cog driven question. does that mean no belts or chain??

Paulo P

Sorry I wasn't thinking there I was thinking of draining it not flushing it, that's not the best idea

No belt or chain a 2.8 It's just 2 gears.

b_kennedy

thats useful info. Thanks fella!!
was thinking of selling it but the engine is so simple i might just keep it!!

Paulo P

They are going up in value quite well Got any photos?

This is my old 2.8i

b_kennedy

https://passionford.com/forum/general-car-related-discussion/243819-just-got-this.html

check this out mate. some pics on there!! I like the grey/blue ones

Paulo P

Is it a special? It should be but it's got the early interior

mechanic28

iTrader: (5)

if you want to get rid of all the crap remove the stat as well!

b_kennedy

yeah i'll take that out aswell. is there a gasket there or is it just gasket sealant?

Yeah it a 2.8 special. Roof lining is fooked but gonna sort that out. Interior bit grubby too so trying to srt that. Have wet vac'd interior but looks like i'll have to do again!

mechanic28

iTrader: (5)

there should be a gasket be sealant will work fine!

ECOS95

1: The main thing to do is flush the rad as it traps most of the crap. If it was Me I'd drain the system by removing the bottom rad hose. Refit & refill it with just clean water, run it for a few minutes then repeat the above until it comes out clean. Then use Anti freeze.

2:No idea on the 2.8 but the 2.0 has a min & max mark on the expansion bottle.

3:I use to run 10W50 in my 2.0s & that worked fine not sure about the 2.8.

5: Its normally an electric one in the NS wing.

6:You have the normal Blue for main beam, 1 red for handbrake & 1 red for ignition, 1 green for indicator. Think thats about it. Oil, battery etc are gauges.

This is mostly from memory as I sold my 2.0s in 1997.Hope it helps.

b_kennedy

ECOS95 that is very helpful! Thanks. Do I just refill via the expansion bottle or should i fill via the cap on top of rad?

mechanic28 i'll see if i can get a gasket first to make sure. Thanks

Does anyone know the cause of why the water has gone brown?

mechanic28

iTrader: (5)

age fella!probably just been topped up with water over the years causing to block and other parts like rad etc to rust!"

ECOS95

I'd refill from the top of the rad, the expansion tank is an overflow if I remember correctly. I'm sure only one pipe goes to it from the top of the rad.

b_kennedy

Wat a wa**er!! Why dont people look after there cars!

b_kennedy

do i fill to the brim then? ecos95

ECOS95

I had to replace all the rubber hoses due to not running the correct mixture , the pipes had gone hard & inside the pipe was a coating of limescale due to hard water.

b_kennedy

i was hoping that will not be the case

ECOS95

To the top will be fine as any extra will go into the expansion tank when the cap is back on the rad. When you use the antifreeze you'll need to check the level after its been run for a while. The pressure cap on the rad release the coolant into the expansion tank when hot & draws it back as the engine cools. The level can vary so you may need to check it when hot & cold til you get it correct.

andycos

1. Take bottom hose off rad that goes to thermostat, and put your hosepipe in through where the top hose goes and flush clean.Also you can take thermostat out and whilst apart flush from the offside heater hose.This should get all the sedement out of the heater matrix, which should exit through the thermostat area.
2.Inside my header tank as you look down there is a plastic pin/pointer,i fill up to the top of that.
3.You can top up with 15/40 oil.
4.The 2.8i has timing gears.Ive had mine 18 years and not had to look/change them !
5.Ariel should be on nearside wing, if its not there then its most likely had a aftermarket wing fitted.Which comes with no hole.
6. As ECOS95 said !.

There should be a gasket on both sides of the thermostat housing, if i was you i would replace the thermostat whilst apart as its cheap enough and then you will get new gaskets with it.

Also the water pump has a habit of leaking every few years when you add antifreeze. The bolts have a habit of snapping to.

The brown water is most likely just years of crap thats accumalated in the water system.
It can be a border line cooling system, hence i took my rad out and fitted a sierra rad with twin electric fans.No more over heating problems now.

tabetha

Don't do any of the above, while there is still wate rin it shove in some WYNNS cooling system flush and do a few hundred miles on it, not the 15 minutes it say, this will result in all the crap coming out as a congealed mess in the expansion tank, which will then need taking off and cleaning out, I usually get about 1/2 to 3/4 of a MUG full of crap out doing this, froms as a transluscent jelly stuff, works well.
Fill the holes with SEALANT before bolting up the bolts, and use LOCTITE 5900/5910 on the gasket, it will never leak then.
Do NOT thrash the engine until it has done a few days service up to full temp, as they suffer terribly from air locks around rear o/s side cylinder, ask me how I melted a piston!!
Drill a small 3/4mm hole in the stat to help dispel any air, I do on all my cars, never seen any effect on warm up time either.
tabetha

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

have you tried the capri power web site.

dojj

iTrader: (3)

the cog driven cam cogs are a bit of a problem, i'm not sure if some people change them to much beffier steel items but they are louder

try here

b_kennedy

thanks for all the help guys. It is much appreciated. Learnt alot already. Does anyone know where temp gauge wire is on the block?

b_kennedy

Has anyone got a picture of where I can drill the thermostat too. Thanks

andycos

Well the temp guage sender bolts into the top housing elbow.
If you follow your top hose from rad back to the housing,it should be a push on black cap. Also the temp sender is coloured (brown i think from memory)and sometimes folk put the wrong one in !

b_kennedy

Thanks for your help fella . will check it out once i get all these probs out sorted out. dont wanna fix it for him

Paulo P

Does that mean you might be swapping back?

dunketh

You normally drill the thin metal disc thats around the edge of them, if that makes sense.
I've done it on minis and the like but I've never been fortunate enough to own a capri so no guarantees.

Jim Galbally

based on my experiences with the 2.8 engine i'd reccomend you check the valve clearances/tappets. the procedure is in the haynes manual, it's pretty bloody easy on the 2.8

b_kennedy

No we have resolved the issue now so I am keeping it but I wouldnt have swapped back anyway. I have already spent some money on the capri!

Thanks for the heads up jim. I will check them aswell

Thanks dunketh. Are we just talking a very small hole and just 1 hole?

b_kennedy

ok. car took a few attempts to start but once running it was sweet as a nut. now the last 2 days it wont start. It really wants to go but just backs off at last minute.

There's a spark and there's fuel. tried with out the cold start aswell and still refuses. Are there any common problems on these I can check?

whilee

never get mine working bloody thingand i must say thanks for flushing advice as thats a must do job and try to find out why i aint got hot air when the heatings on

Jim Galbally

iirc the temp sender for the gauge is on the front of the block right near the stat housing. if you intend to replace the sender, expect it to snap off in the engine

dunketh

Yes. Very small hole (2/3mm) and usually just one.
Its only done to aid engine cooling, as you get a constant flow of water.

If your engine is not overheating I wouldnt bother doing it as there are some negative affects. It increases the time it takes to reach optimum temperature, hence being less efficient and running rough for longer.
As a side affect, because of the above, your heater wont be that warm in winter.
Brass monkeys and rough running.. not necessarily something to encourage.

I'm talking in general here though, not as a 2.8 engine expert.

rich_mkii_rs2000

Don't use anything other than 20/50 grade oil on a 2.8 or any other old ford engine.

silver

The correct oil for a 2.8 is 10/40.

The temp sender is on the top front of the engine next to the hose that goes to the top of the radiator.

rich_mkii_rs2000

Seriously 20/50w, ask any old school engine builder, particulary on the old 2.8s to help with oil pressure.

b_kennedy

Hi guys!!

Couple more questions. As the fan is permanantely on is it possible to just remove the thermostat all together?

Also Wheel bearings and brakes? Do I have to track down Capri ones or can you use sierra ones. I havent looked yet but i'm assuming the capri ones are quite hard to source.

Thanks