In Car Boost Control / Bleed Valves
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On a stage 1 tune 2wd saff engine were boost is set at 15psi via an under bonnet bleed valve could you then fit an incar bleed valve to lower the boost level? keeping the under bonnet one as a restriction to 15 psi when you turned it back up? would this work ?
#2
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Yep.. but the one in the car would just be a two-port affair, not venting to atmosphere.. Really you want a 3-port one under the bonnet, one port to inlet manifold, one to the actuator and the third going to another in the car..
Last edited by pa_sjo; 09-06-2008 at 07:32 AM.
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Will there be a downside from having a two port b/v under the bonnet then? I just want to retrict the boost so i cant accidentilly turn it up to much inside the car.. Its in a yb powered westfield an you really do not need 15 psi all the time lol
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#5
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on my 2wd i used to have an electronic solinoid boost control with a 2 stage switch in the dash.. it was much better than running pipes everywhere to get your boost control into the car.
its a simple valve that is open a small amount with no current, and then opens all the way up with 12v up its ass,
with some carefull ajustments with your actuator you can easly use it for boost increase from 8psi to 15psi
its a simple valve that is open a small amount with no current, and then opens all the way up with 12v up its ass,
with some carefull ajustments with your actuator you can easly use it for boost increase from 8psi to 15psi
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just fit the original amal valve and trace the ground wire that controls it from the ECU cut this wire fit either end of wire to a simple 2 way switch, thus in turn will give you a low & high boost setting
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Havent got the original amal valve but to be honest would prefer abit more adjustment than a simple high/low setting
As long as no one thinks its going to cause me any problems & will work correctly ? i will go with the twin bleed valve idea..
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To make this two bleed valve idea work were will the 2nd one need to be plumbed in? The actuator side of the under bonnet b/v ??
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buy an electronic boost controller then if you want proper control of the amount of boost you want to run, TBH buying and fitting an original amal valve with a low-high switch is the easiest and most simple way of having control of the boost
depending on how the amal valve is jetting you can have low boost (8-9psi) high boost (14-15psi) thus making it around 220bhp on low and 275bhp on high and all it will cost you is the price of a amal valve and some wiring, plus have the peace of mind that the ecu has the ability to control the boost, and not a manual boost controller!
I personally have tried both and using the amal valve is buy far the best way to control boost + aswell is your ECU Chip written for using a Amal Valve?
depending on how the amal valve is jetting you can have low boost (8-9psi) high boost (14-15psi) thus making it around 220bhp on low and 275bhp on high and all it will cost you is the price of a amal valve and some wiring, plus have the peace of mind that the ecu has the ability to control the boost, and not a manual boost controller!
I personally have tried both and using the amal valve is buy far the best way to control boost + aswell is your ECU Chip written for using a Amal Valve?
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buy an electronic boost controller then if you want proper control of the amount of boost you want to run, TBH buying and fitting an original amal valve with a low-high switch is the easiest and most simple way of having control of the boost
depending on how the amal valve is jetting you can have low boost (8-9psi) high boost (14-15psi) thus making it around 220bhp on low and 275bhp on high and all it will cost you is the price of a amal valve and some wiring, plus have the peace of mind that the ecu has the ability to control the boost, and not a manual boost controller!
I personally have tried both and using the amal valve is buy far the best way to control boost + aswell is your ECU Chip written for using a Amal Valve?
depending on how the amal valve is jetting you can have low boost (8-9psi) high boost (14-15psi) thus making it around 220bhp on low and 275bhp on high and all it will cost you is the price of a amal valve and some wiring, plus have the peace of mind that the ecu has the ability to control the boost, and not a manual boost controller!
I personally have tried both and using the amal valve is buy far the best way to control boost + aswell is your ECU Chip written for using a Amal Valve?
I think i will take your advise an get hold of an amal valve from some were an do it that way (does sound the safest option)..
msd did the stage 1 work on it back in 2005 and i dont think its been touched since so i wouldnt think its been chipped with an amal valve will this be a problem?
Im picking the car up on saturday so i will know more then cant wait though
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I think i will take your advise an get hold of an amal valve from some were an do it that way (does sound the safest option)..
msd did the stage 1 work on it back in 2005 and i dont think its been touched since so i wouldnt think its been chipped with an amal valve will this be a problem?
Im picking the car up on saturday so i will know more then cant wait though
just hope the weathers nice as it has no roof,windscreen,doors etc
and ive got to drive it back from inverness
msd did the stage 1 work on it back in 2005 and i dont think its been touched since so i wouldnt think its been chipped with an amal valve will this be a problem?
Im picking the car up on saturday so i will know more then cant wait though
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then if it has an MSD chip i would defo say it will have use of the Amal Valve written into the Chip, just make sure you buy a working amal valve and and make sure the wiring is still on the loom for it if i remember right it the wire colour is red/white & brown and should be part of the loom that feeds the coil
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1) remove the underbonnet one.
2) Run only ONE in the car. Get a high quality one with notches in it so you can feel where you are.
3) Pipe it up as normal. (Lefta nd right ports to turbo/act normally)
4) Run the output pipe into the engine bay. (bottom of valve)
5) Open the valve up all the way (max boost setting) and the restrict the OUTPUT port pipe until boost drops to 15psi. You could use your old bleed valve to do this if you like, by porting the bottom of it to the pipe from your active output and leave the side ports free. The screw will then act as an airflow restrictor with fully closed being no boost increase at all from your in car valve.
If confused, read it a few times, it will make sense in the end.
2) Run only ONE in the car. Get a high quality one with notches in it so you can feel where you are.
3) Pipe it up as normal. (Lefta nd right ports to turbo/act normally)
4) Run the output pipe into the engine bay. (bottom of valve)
5) Open the valve up all the way (max boost setting) and the restrict the OUTPUT port pipe until boost drops to 15psi. You could use your old bleed valve to do this if you like, by porting the bottom of it to the pipe from your active output and leave the side ports free. The screw will then act as an airflow restrictor with fully closed being no boost increase at all from your in car valve.
If confused, read it a few times, it will make sense in the end.
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1) remove the underbonnet one.
2) Run only ONE in the car. Get a high quality one with notches in it so you can feel where you are.
3) Pipe it up as normal. (Lefta nd right ports to turbo/act normally)
4) Run the output pipe into the engine bay. (bottom of valve)
5) Open the valve up all the way (max boost setting) and the restrict the OUTPUT port pipe until boost drops to 15psi. You could use your old bleed valve to do this if you like, by porting the bottom of it to the pipe from your active output and leave the side ports free. The screw will then act as an airflow restrictor with fully closed being no boost increase at all from your in car valve.
If confused, read it a few times, it will make sense in the end.
2) Run only ONE in the car. Get a high quality one with notches in it so you can feel where you are.
3) Pipe it up as normal. (Lefta nd right ports to turbo/act normally)
4) Run the output pipe into the engine bay. (bottom of valve)
5) Open the valve up all the way (max boost setting) and the restrict the OUTPUT port pipe until boost drops to 15psi. You could use your old bleed valve to do this if you like, by porting the bottom of it to the pipe from your active output and leave the side ports free. The screw will then act as an airflow restrictor with fully closed being no boost increase at all from your in car valve.
If confused, read it a few times, it will make sense in the end.
Many thanks Stu, much appreciated
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