hi,

Im having a bit of bother removing a bolt, its a 14mm bolt thats extremely tight, and basically it has a rounded head, i cant drill it out and retap it because its a long bolt and goes throught the rear trailing arm and to a captive nut on my car, ive tried hammering a 13 on with no luck...any advice??

Dave

 

weld a nut to it

 

weld a bit bit of metal to the bolt head
use the big bit of metal to twist the bolt out

alternativly, get to the captive nut side and cut it off on that side and draw it through

if you can't et the bolt off, will you be able to dissaemble the rear axle to get it out or not?

 

i will be able to take the LCa and trailing arm off but i dont think it will really help, there is not enough room to get in and cut the captive nut off...i was looking at the Irwin bolt extractor...has anyone used one before?

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/irwin-stud-and...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Used my mates yesterday to get my starter off. Struggled for nearly 2 hours on saturday without success. Used this yesterday and i had all the 3 bolts off in 10mins. That good I might invest in a set myself.

 

Rattle gun sockets tend to be a little neater. I once had a problem with a hex head bolt that i rounded with a normal socket - hammered a rattle gun socket on and voila.

Or on some measurements the corresponding closest imperial socket might work (though I doubt it with 14mm)

 

How do these work on studs with the head snapped off? One of the downpipe bolts has snapped in my manifold leaving just the thread and is TIGHT...

 

i use halfords stud extractors myself which tend to work very very well on the stuff they can get a crip on

but them irwin things look the tits

 

I can't access Ebay at my work to see what you are looking at, but I used one of these.



Don't know how you'd get a bolt out without a head if it's flush.

SMG

 

There is still an inch of thread i can just about get to, but i can`t undo it so wondered if this would work. I think it would...