Breaking in a new engine.
#1
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Breaking in a new engine.
I'm just about to build me new engine, and i'm not sure how to run it in.
There are lot's of different method's, but i'm not sure which to employ. I'm tempted on a tick over for 15minutes drop the oil for some fresh mineral and go out and nail it.
The other is, drive down the motorway for 100 miles then drive home, doing some light boost 5k rev's lot of de-accel.
What did you do to break your engine in? And for how long?
There are lot's of different method's, but i'm not sure which to employ. I'm tempted on a tick over for 15minutes drop the oil for some fresh mineral and go out and nail it.
The other is, drive down the motorway for 100 miles then drive home, doing some light boost 5k rev's lot of de-accel.
What did you do to break your engine in? And for how long?
#2
*** Sierra RS Custard ***
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I use varied rpm up to about 60% of max revs, and upto about 50% throttle (or just into a couple of psi boost on a turbo) for around 500 miles, then I drive it at no more than 80% revs and 80% throttle for another 500 miles
Thats for a road motor that I expect to last 50K miles or more, its different if its for a race application.
Thats for a road motor that I expect to last 50K miles or more, its different if its for a race application.
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I use varied rpm up to about 60% of max revs, and upto about 50% throttle (or just into a couple of psi boost on a turbo) for around 500 miles, then I drive it at no more than 80% revs and 80% throttle for another 500 miles
Thats for a road motor that I expect to last 50K miles or more, its different if its for a race application.
Thats for a road motor that I expect to last 50K miles or more, its different if its for a race application.
Sounds like a fairly old fashioned way you used and pretty much my second method.
However, how likely am i to do 50k miles in the car, (not very). I'm tempted on a race style.
I'm sure you've seen this, not sure how much truth is in it.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#5
*** Sierra RS Custard ***
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The key sentance in that article is here:
I still use old fashioned honing techniques, so NONE of what he has written applies to me, same goes for most DIY builds, and for that matter most engine shops.
so people read something like that on the net, think it applies to them, and fuck up their engine.
The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.
so people read something like that on the net, think it applies to them, and fuck up their engine.
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Im doing first 300 miles about 3/3500 revs max, but at the same time not letting it go to low on the revs, then change oil, 300 miles upto 4/4500 revs, then changing oil and taking the revs up further. Boost is knocked down to about std settings.
1000 miles change oil again, then im handing the car to MSD
1000 miles change oil again, then im handing the car to MSD
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#8
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Im doing first 300 miles about 3/3500 revs max, but at the same time not letting it go to low on the revs, then change oil, 300 miles upto 4/4500 revs, then changing oil and taking the revs up further. Boost is knocked down to about std settings.
1000 miles change oil again, then im handing the car to MSD
1000 miles change oil again, then im handing the car to MSD
Sounds fine except I would pull that first lot of oil a lot sooner.
#9
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
so many people do it so many ways i have tryed many ways and to be fair there not a lot in it as long as you change the oil
i ran an escort in on the dyno for 30 miles at 3000rpm foot to floor then change oil the 100miles on the road and thats it and she runs mint
its the same old thing that so many people will do it there way
i ran an escort in on the dyno for 30 miles at 3000rpm foot to floor then change oil the 100miles on the road and thats it and she runs mint
its the same old thing that so many people will do it there way
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I've had a lot of experience with 2 stroke engines, there nature means you pull them apart very often. So you can see which running in technique was the best. On the 2 stroke's it's certainly the hard way.
But still, what's hard on a 2 stroke? 9-10k RPM's is still around the 75% of Max rpm's mark. I was 1 of the few that run less oil during the break in period rather than the usual it's running in add some oil.
Any 4 stroke's i've run in, i didn't strip them down again afterward's so can only gone on oil consumption crank case pressure's etc for which is the best method. but then there are far 2 many variables to know if it's accurate.
I was hoping for a tuner to reply but i'm fairly sure they won't give up there secrets.
The engine in question is used a lot in the US and they all seem to break in the hard way. However a lot of them have found this work's better for less blow by.
In irony i don't trust there method's as the 1's that have pulled it to bit's, because well, they've already had to pull it to bit's again for probably a build error.
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