After removing a headgasket.

is just a blade suitable?

Or something else.

Cheers

Same goes for the head, but head looks spotless, seems the block had all the furry gasket shit stick to it.

 

Blade and WD40 worked for me

Be careful tho

 

blade and clutch/brake cleaner

 

 

brand new stanley blade, keep it at a shallow angle though, dont wanna score anything.

and put grease round the edges of the pistons to catch any shite from going down between piston and bore before you start.

 

Blade to take off bits of old gasket/carbon or whatever with WD40 for lube

some WD40 and wire wool to clean it up nicely

 

i would never refit a head,nomatter how good it looks without either a skim,or at least get it checked for trueness,

 

i would never use wire wool on a block face either tbh the ammount of strands that will end up down the bore cant be healthy....

 

wont use wirewool, also head will be checked for flatness before re-fitment but im sure its fine.

 

This is true, theirs stuff I use when doing it but it's not made out of wire, same effect, dont know what it's called so jus called it wire wool

 

Scotchbtite stuff davie?

 

Aye think that's the stuff Euan!

 

Thought a jet wash was best way to clean them anyway

 

Thats just for removing the oil/bits of crap (hot high pressure water)

 

see you the mora anyway....

 

No worries mate

 

except for the ARP's

 

I use a milled flat bar, 2" square, of metal wrapped in knackered 1000 grade(wet and dry), works a treat, I do grease the bores first though, afterturning engine so that they are all mid way down.
I just use engine oil on the paper whne I do it.
As to head just accurately check for flatness.
tabetha

 

Wood plainer & a dremel...that'll get it clean & spotless

 

I used some mullered old sandpaper, cleaned up fine then just a wipe down afterwards, not a problem Ryan!

 

i was doubtful about using sandpaper due to glass particales from the paper going down the bores

 

I just used some old stuff Ryan that was nearly as smooth as a babies anyway!

Mind you, mine ain't a concourse car and I don't expect it to last anyway! ROFL

 

I just use a blade at a shallow angle, stanley blades are ok, but if you can get an old big industrial hacksaw blade (ones that are a lot wider than normal) and then sharpen one end of it, that makes for a great quality scraper for no money that is a LOT easy to use than trying to piss about with a stanley blade as you have 6" of it to hold onto.

 

 

i've already cleaned the face with a long stanley blade (about 4" long)

seemed to do the job with a bit of WD40, i blocked up all the oil galleries before i started and tried to get as little neat the pistons or bores, cleaned those up afterwards, is there anyway to clean down the side of the piston down to the 1st ring?

Is a stanley black all that is needed for cleaning?

 

I use ONLY the blade, sod using sandpaper that falls apart in use and puts rough sand down your bores or oil ways etc.

Im not aware of any reliable way of cleaning down the side of a piston while its in the bore.

If you want it PROPERLY clean and flat, then take it out and get the block skimmed, anything else is not going to get as good results.

If you arent goign to take it out and strip it then I reckon stick to the blade cause if anything goes down your oil ways or bores etc, you dont have a way of getting it out again without removing the block and stripping it, and if you are going to do that then you may as well skim it!

 

should be fine as it is then, will just clean the bolt holes and double clean everything again before refitting.

fuck taking the engine to bits for a skim. Bottom end isnt going into bits, end of story.

 

I wasnt suggesting its needed, was just saying its the only way to have it perfect.

In your position, I would just use a blade and accept that as good enough.

 

yeah know what you meant.

sure its good enough for a YB0611 gasket anyway

 

The fibrous ones are nowhere near as fussy as the metal ones IME

 

yeah

 

use compressed air to blow any little bits of gasket shit out the bores, get it in a can from partners if you havent got an air line.

 

yeah used to use that stuff in our office to clean keyboard etc etc, staples might do it or office world.

Good call

 

if you apply grease around the bore/piston gap at TDC and do it a bit at a time with the blade, turn the bottom end over to lower the piton and all the shit should stick to the grease, so simply wipe it off and degrease when done

do each part of the block like that and it should be ok

 

good thinking dan and ironically thats what i did worked a treat

just need to clean bolt holes and final prep then its ready for the head to go back on.

 

well, ive never done that, but it made sense as i typed it lol

 

i did sugest grease round the piston/bore in my first reply but none of you ignorant cunts took any fucking notice

 

sorry stu, have some love