xr-stu

mods can you please leave it in here for a couple of days as its fairly urgent! cant get it motd and use it for work until its sorted!

its a 1.8, 1998 zetec on a plastic inlet.

basiclly symptoms are:

irratic idle, will be ok for a minute or so, then revs will go scatty, raising up and down and it will eventually stall. also runs fairly rough too, rougher than it should.

emissions are very high, 10%.

ive changed:

lambda sensor, inlet manifold gaskets, had the iscv off (6 months old) and drenched it in wd40, replaced the o rings underneath to insure a good seal. removed the crank breather pipe that goes to the back of the inlet and blocked with finger - same running problems. same with the other vacum pipe that goes off to one of the little electronic valves somewhere, same thing.

im running out of ideas and have lost all patience with it so im putting it to you lot.

my only other last ditch idea is the gasket between throttle body and inlet but its not been disturbed and idle doesnt change when soaked in WD40 so indicates to me, no leak there.

help!

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

As said in your last bit, try spraying all teh pipes etc off the inlet with WD40 and if it sorts it you have a leak somewhere

Injector o-rings?

xr-stu

fucking drenched everything in WD earlier and didnt do owt...

lukemakepeace

have you done anything with the mass airflow sensor?

haz87

Pcv valve knackered?

xr-stu

not done anything with the air flow meter, they disconnected it when they were pissing about with it at the mot station though and said it made no difference?


as for PCV valve, if you mean the one on the breather on the front of the block that goes to inlet then i replaced that about a month ago.

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

Try cleaning the 2 wires on the MAF with carb cleaner

lukemakepeace

yeah, dam MOT people. the air flow meter could be shagged causing this meaning if they did take the wires off of course it wont make a difference.

xr-stu

ive got a spare which should work, and one on my parents mondeo which again should work, so ill try both of them and see what happens.

lukemakepeace

yep, let us know.

pee vee

try the MAF sensor mate.

xr-stu

just swapped my maf sensor for the parentals mondeos map sensor and does the same thing, however with it disconnected...runs and drives fine




fuck knows, ordering a new maf sensor anyway, hopefully thatll fix it. if it does im gonna rain down every insult under the sun to the fucking numptys at the garage as thats exactly what i said i thought it would be in the first fucking place


(<- real tears)

lukemakepeace

im sure it is that. and you say with it unplugged its fine..... have you tried another MAF sensor yet?

well its something to do with that anyway, gurranteed, clean all the connectors up and if need be reset the ECU. i dont remember how to reset one but it may help. i think you can do it by removing the battery for ages and making sure there is no power in the vehicle by using lights while battery is off as some stays in the system for a short amount of time.

then leave it for a while, (hour or 2) reconnect and see what happens.

AndyRST

sounds like the MAF, esp if you have disconected it and it drives better. I accidently left my ST170 MAF unplugged and it was gutless and just woulnt rev very well when driving, plugged back in and was perfect. If your MAF is causing the same as mine unplugged then yes its knackered.

If you disconnect the Battery for 30 mins it resets the ECU and then takes about 50 miles to re-learn the baisc settings.

NEEDFORSPEED

depends what year, if quite old it wont but judgeing by it running better with afm unplugged and going to default setting its quite new so try thet lol! its easy to say try that without testing it tho or being their . . . hope you get it sorted

Wardy257

It is far better to use carb when cleaning the MAF and ISCV. If the MAF has a problem and your emissions are that high you may well have nackered you O2 sensor again.

Have you checked the electrical feeds to the MAF etc? It is not difficult with a basic multimeter.

filthyrichie

when we program keys we sometimes disconnect battery then hold +- terminals together for 15 secs this clears down everything,maf sounds good only other i can think of is the rubber pipe on the right hand side as you look at the engine goes to manifold , has it collapsed and split on the corner as it connects, we get a few of these

xr-stu

will have a look today and check some of the things sugested, thanks guys, appreciate it!

xr-stu

well, new air flow meter, no difference

changed the coolant temp sender as seems the hunting etc only happens when warm, made no difference.

pulling my hair out big time.

going to fords tomorow for a diagnostic session. im gonna be furious if they cant find whats up with it.

Wardy257

It is no good just changing every sensor. Volt drop the elextrical connections to each sensor and look for faults.