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why is long studding bad?

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Old 29-09-2007, 03:20 PM
  #121  
scoooby slayer
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Originally Posted by staffi
Originally Posted by Mark Shead

Every engine I biuld over 380hp has longs studs, I dont not biuld them if they dont have them,
I do map engines over this level if the customer does not have them but in the understanding that I am not a big fan running engines like it.

Mark








Well that's mine fooked then..

and mine if thats the case we will see in time staffi if one of are cars fail.
Old 29-09-2007, 03:24 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by scoooby slayer


and mine if thats the case we will see in time staffi if one of are cars fail.


Well mine will be pushed even further in a month or so with the GT30..


HOW MUCH ARE NEW BLOCKS PEOPLE...........
Old 29-09-2007, 04:39 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Mark Shead
Originally Posted by jay.
Originally Posted by Mark Shead
Originally Posted by JonnyBravo
Sorry but something HAS to be wrong for an engine to only last 15hours IMO.

Mikes isn't mega tuned but it was a 500hp engine that done 30k, Rods old engine again was big hp and iirc that done around the same mileage with a lot of power runs.

Ofcourse I have no idea if Mark does long stud his engines though but I know Harvey does.

Really would be good for Karl to write up that article
Every engine I biuld over 380hp has longs studs, I dont not biuld them if they dont have them,
I do map engines over this level if the customer does not have them but in the understanding that I am not a big fan running engines like it.

Mark



could you explain why this is mark ?
The YB block is not strong enough at the top of the block around the bolts holes mainly the 3 to 6 holes, This causes distortion around the top of the block which then does not garrenty a perfect gasket seal.

Mark

cheers mark
Old 29-09-2007, 06:43 PM
  #124  
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at least if you are not going for long stud conversion just use the ARP bolts. Using standard stretch bolts on a modified engine will be a stupid thing to do! and it's not the first time that I hear that Karl Norris don't long stud his engines!! But I want to hear it from him personally not just people saying so!
Old 29-09-2007, 06:53 PM
  #125  
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Karl isnt a big fan of ARP stud and nut kit either as he said as a few others

have also that it can crack the block! did buy some for mine but i sent

them back as i didnt want to take the risk, everybody's opinions will

differ on this subject
Old 29-09-2007, 07:13 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by MalteseFalcon
at least if you are not going for long stud conversion just use the ARP bolts. Using standard stretch bolts on a modified engine will be a stupid thing to do! and it's not the first time that I hear that Karl Norris don't long stud his engines!! But I want to hear it from him personally not just people saying so!
Karl has personally said already why he doesn't use long studs.
Old 29-09-2007, 09:58 PM
  #127  
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so basically it depend on the tuner as to what they personally recomend. It all seems to be down to personal preference rather than proper evidence. I'll stick with me 205 and arp's for now and see how long it last at hopefully close to 500 bup bups
Old 29-09-2007, 10:14 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by kaliber cossie
ive had 5 engine blow ups now all have been long studded blocks have now reverted back to standard engine 200block with stretch bolts grp a headgasket will let u know in time how long in hours this lasts for,

my last engine lasted 15hrs,10 long studs wrc head gasket wrc oil squirters after a while like nutter u get pissed off with the expense of replacing blocks, pistons, headgaskets( especially at Ł375 a time )
Steve...

Get it built once properly and that will be it .... years of reliability rather than hours
Old 30-09-2007, 12:03 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
Originally Posted by kaliber cossie
ive had 5 engine blow ups now all have been long studded blocks have now reverted back to standard engine 200block with stretch bolts grp a headgasket will let u know in time how long in hours this lasts for,

my last engine lasted 15hrs,10 long studs wrc head gasket wrc oil squirters after a while like nutter u get pissed off with the expense of replacing blocks, pistons, headgaskets( especially at Ł375 a time )
Steve...

Get it built once properly and that will be it .... years of reliability rather than hours
Sound advice there - some of us learn the hard way!
Old 30-09-2007, 12:20 AM
  #130  
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well i am going to add my 2 pence now i have said it lots of times that imo the 200 block is no better the 205 block in a 2wd so there
Old 30-09-2007, 12:25 AM
  #131  
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sorry but I agree with the long studding - For the relativly low expense, it is well worth doing over a set of poxy ARP studs or any other nonsense, same as the 205/200 block debate...

200 Block long studded every time for anything over 400BHP IMHO, why skimp for a few quid savings?? you will pay it out 5 times over to get it sorted.

And there will always be people saying 700BHP on a std 205 block with 2 normal head bolts is fine blah blah blah, mines not blown up yet etc etc etc, but why take the chance?? As Martin/ Sheady and any other decent tuner says, build it once, build it right
Old 30-09-2007, 12:27 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by mechanic28
well i am going to add my 2 pence now i have said it lots of times that imo the 200 block is no better the 205 block in a 2wd so there
with all due respect mate, how many engines have you run at over 400BHP? give mount-tune a ring and tell them thier longstudded 200 blocks are a waste of time and 205's are they way forward.
Old 30-09-2007, 08:51 AM
  #133  
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My engine is 6 studded on a wrc head gasket.

Gotta re-do it and wanna go wire rung with late escos head gasket,no more

than 2 bar boost,is this feasible?

puddy
Old 30-09-2007, 09:08 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by puddy
My engine is 6 studded on a wrc head gasket.

Gotta re-do it and wanna go wire rung with late escos head gasket,no more

than 2 bar boost,is this feasible?

puddy
mines runs 6 long studs with wire rings and a group a gasket with no gasket failures on 2.5 bar so think it will be cool puddy
Old 30-09-2007, 09:46 AM
  #135  
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Exscuse my ignorance, what exactly makes the block crack?? people say different things. is it just to much power/boost ??
Old 30-09-2007, 10:19 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by puddy
Gotta re-do it and wanna go wire rung with late escos head gasket,no more

than 2 bar boost,is this feasible?

puddy
Yes that will be fine. I ran a YB0611 head gasket and wire ringing / std head bolts on my old 187 mph engine and on all engines prior to that without any issues whatsoever.
Old 30-09-2007, 01:57 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by staffi
Exscuse my ignorance, what exactly makes the block crack?? people say different things. is it just to much power/boost ??
I believe mine cracked due to the boltholes not being cleaned out correctly.

No one ofcourse wants to admit to it, they just say the 200 blocks crack there ! which I don't believe they just do
Old 30-09-2007, 04:54 PM
  #138  
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do long studs need to be re torqued every so often. i torqued mine when i built my engine (with a snap on torqued wrench) then again after 1000 miles. now about 4000 miles later 4 of the nuts have loosened about 1/4 of a turn. now need another head gasket . so should they be re torqued every 1000 miles or so?
Old 30-09-2007, 05:15 PM
  #139  
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I`m using 4 long studs and 6 standard strechbolts. To my experience APR bolts have coused more problems than they have solved, same goes for WRC gaskets. So 4 longstuds to prevent cracking my YBD block and a group a gasket. Aiming for 550bhp.
Old 30-09-2007, 06:15 PM
  #140  
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the std 200 blocks have an inherant fault straight from the factory build that causes them to crack at any decent power with std /arp studs, long studding does away with this as a by product of the long studding process. the blocks can be modded to use std studs with no worries about cracking around the bolt holes/water jacket.
Old 30-09-2007, 07:12 PM
  #141  
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One thing that gives long studs a bad name is there are several inferior copies out there made from wrong material that just are not up to the job.
I found this out years ago when the one's I was supplied simply would not torque up, I now buy from a manufacturer that makes them right
Old 30-09-2007, 07:42 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
One thing that gives long studs a bad name is there are several inferior copies out there made from wrong material that just are not up to the job.
I found this out years ago when the one's I was supplied simply would not torque up, I now buy from a manufacturer that makes them right
what do you mean not torque up right? see my post above. would that cause them to come loose?
Old 30-09-2007, 07:45 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by jaimesdna
Originally Posted by martin-reyland
One thing that gives long studs a bad name is there are several inferior copies out there made from wrong material that just are not up to the job.
I found this out years ago when the one's I was supplied simply would not torque up, I now buy from a manufacturer that makes them right
what do you mean not torque up right? see my post above. would that cause them to come loose?
I mean that the torque wrench would not click off at the set torque.. It just kept winding them up! I can sell proper one's to anyone that needs them
Old 30-09-2007, 07:48 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by martin-reyland
Originally Posted by jaimesdna
Originally Posted by martin-reyland
One thing that gives long studs a bad name is there are several inferior copies out there made from wrong material that just are not up to the job.
I found this out years ago when the one's I was supplied simply would not torque up, I now buy from a manufacturer that makes them right
what do you mean not torque up right? see my post above. would that cause them to come loose?
I mean that the torque wrench would not click off at the set torque.. It just kept winding them up! I can sell proper one's to anyone that needs them
thats not the problem i got then. mine cane loose after 4000 miles (they were re torqued after 1000miles) shoud they stay tight or do they need re torqueing every so often?
Old 30-09-2007, 07:56 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by jaimesdna
Originally Posted by martin-reyland
Originally Posted by jaimesdna
Originally Posted by martin-reyland
One thing that gives long studs a bad name is there are several inferior copies out there made from wrong material that just are not up to the job.
I found this out years ago when the one's I was supplied simply would not torque up, I now buy from a manufacturer that makes them right
what do you mean not torque up right? see my post above. would that cause them to come loose?
I mean that the torque wrench would not click off at the set torque.. It just kept winding them up! I can sell proper one's to anyone that needs them
thats not the problem i got then. mine cane loose after 4000 miles (they were re torqued after 1000miles) shoud they stay tight or do they need re torqueing every so often?
They should stay tight, I have never had to re-torque any of mine.
Old 30-09-2007, 07:58 PM
  #146  
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any idears what would cause them to come loose?
Old 30-09-2007, 08:35 PM
  #147  
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hi lads

just my 2 pence worth but wasn't there a "dodgy" batch of 200 block that were made in Argentina ????????????

these blocks were rubbish the quality of the cast iron was a waste of time

i dont know how many of these blocks were in circulation i heard there was loads

I have has succses with both types of engines with or without long studs


the 400+bhp harvy engine had 6 x long studs with wrc gasket never had gasket failer


i aslo had 360bhp engine on a wire rung 200 block with yb0611 gasket and never had gasket failer

marco
Old 30-09-2007, 08:49 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by RWD_cossie_wil
Originally Posted by mechanic28
well i am going to add my 2 pence now i have said it lots of times that imo the 200 block is no better the 205 block in a 2wd so there
with all due respect mate, how many engines have you run at over 400BHP? give mount-tune a ring and tell them thier longstudded 200 blocks are a waste of time and 205's are they way forward.
did not say 205 is the way forward,205 block is more then capable of holding 400+ bhp if built correctly in a 2wd
Old 30-09-2007, 09:02 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by mechanic28
Originally Posted by RWD_cossie_wil
Originally Posted by mechanic28
well i am going to add my 2 pence now i have said it lots of times that imo the 200 block is no better the 205 block in a 2wd so there
with all due respect mate, how many engines have you run at over 400BHP? give mount-tune a ring and tell them thier longstudded 200 blocks are a waste of time and 205's are they way forward.
did not say 205 is the way forward,205 block is more then capable of holding 400+ bhp if built correctly in a 2wd
Sorry mate but you are talking bollocks!

The quote above has you saying that a 200 block is no bettter than a 205 in a 2wd but then you go on to say that you were not saying that the 205 block is the way forward! FFS make your mind up!

The only reason for basing a big power engine on a 205 block would be the lack of availability of a 200 block but if it was me I would keep hunting for one!
Old 30-09-2007, 09:23 PM
  #150  
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saying and said that if u have a 2wd with a 205 block u dont have to throw away the 205 and get a 200 one when the 205 block is more then capable,why did ford bring out the 200 block?cos the 205 block was to weak to hold big power???i think not
Old 30-09-2007, 10:59 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by rapidcossie
Originally Posted by puddy
My engine is 6 studded on a wrc head gasket.

Gotta re-do it and wanna go wire rung with late escos head gasket,no more

than 2 bar boost,is this feasible?

puddy
mines runs 6 long studs with wire rings and a group a gasket with no gasket failures on 2.5 bar so think it will be cool puddy
Cheers to you and martin for that info,don't wanna waste money on a wrc

gasket on the rebuild,got no money

anyone got the ford part no. for the late escos gasket ?


puddy
Old 30-09-2007, 11:10 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by puddy
anyone got the ford part no. for the late escos gasket ?
puddy
Old 30-09-2007, 11:29 PM
  #153  
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L8 ECU



always wondered what the differences was.
Old 01-10-2007, 12:09 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by marco polo
hi lads

just my 2 pence worth but wasn't there a "dodgy" batch of 200 block that were made in Argentina ????????????
Didn't these have a '99' cast into the side of them?
Old 01-10-2007, 12:21 AM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by Big Will 85
Originally Posted by marco polo
hi lads

just my 2 pence worth but wasn't there a "dodgy" batch of 200 block that were made in Argentina ????????????
Didn't these have a '99' cast into the side of them?
Yes and its been mentioned recently too, they were made in Turkey iirc

Didn't Rods block end up being a 99 marked block ?
Old 01-10-2007, 12:21 AM
  #156  
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https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...951&highlight=
Old 01-10-2007, 12:22 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by JonnyBravo
Originally Posted by Big Will 85
Originally Posted by marco polo
hi lads

just my 2 pence worth but wasn't there a "dodgy" batch of 200 block that were made in Argentina ????????????
Didn't these have a '99' cast into the side of them?
Yes and its been mentioned recently too, they were made in Turkey iirc

Didn't Rods block end up being a 99 marked block ?
I honestly can't remember where i heard it - i just remember hearing about a batch of "dogshit castings with 99 on the side"
Old 01-10-2007, 11:00 AM
  #158  
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Wasn't there meant to be Maylasian blocks that crakced when you torqued up the head bolts?
Old 01-10-2007, 11:35 AM
  #159  
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i heard they came from outer mongolia?
Old 01-10-2007, 12:54 PM
  #160  
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The locals ate all the dogs in Mongolia so unless the dog shit was imported from Turkey / Maylasia then no it wouldn't have been Mongolia


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