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gunson fault code reader

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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Default gunson fault code reader

does anybody know where i can get the codes from off the internet atall,my mate has lent me his 1 to check my efi erst so the model number is 4152 but he cant find the manual so if anybody has any ideas wud be much appreciated
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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http://www.gunson.co.uk/downloads/G4160_G4152_en.pdf
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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thats great mate,any 1 know how i might b able 2 change the timing with it atall or is it not possible
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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any1 please as im fed up with the piece of shit car now
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 01:08 AM
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timing is not adjustable on the efi
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:15 AM
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thats what i thought but sum1 else said they managed it on theirs once using the gunson fault code reader
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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That's not what I said.

I said that I used the fault code reader to set the engine into diagnostic mode. It can't actually change the timing.

Once the engine is in diagnostic mode the timing is set to a static 10 degrees regardless of RPM or anything else. You can then use the timing gun to check that it is set correctly. If the timing gun shows the timing at anything other than 10 degrees something is wrong.

The timing on a proper FRST with the flywheel CPS sensor is not adjustable unless you use the octane ground cable and that only retards it by 2 degrees IIRC. However on a car that has been converted to EFi using a aftermarket trigger wheel then it often is adjustable. You then need to set the timing to be 10 degrees in diagnostic mode in which case it will be spot-on.

I'm sorry if I didn't explain this very well before - I wrote the reply in a hurry.
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkN
That's not what I said.

I said that I used the fault code reader to set the engine into diagnostic mode. It can't actually change the timing.

Once the engine is in diagnostic mode the timing is set to a static 10 degrees regardless of RPM or anything else. You can then use the timing gun to check that it is set correctly. If the timing gun shows the timing at anything other than 10 degrees something is wrong.

The timing on a proper FRST with the flywheel CPS sensor is not adjustable unless you use the octane ground cable and that only retards it by 2 degrees IIRC. However on a car that has been converted to EFi using a aftermarket trigger wheel then it often is adjustable. You then need to set the timing to be 10 degrees in diagnostic mode in which case it will be spot-on.

I'm sorry if I didn't explain this very well before - I wrote the reply in a hurry.
oh right ok sorry mate my fault aswell,ive converted the car 2 efi using all xr3i bits and my turbo block had the hole 4 the cps so i just used the efi flywheel aswell,ive tried the fault finder on the car but not sure how it sets the car into diagnostic mode
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:11 PM
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bttt
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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I think you have to start the engine with the fault code reader plugged in, but off. Then switch the fault code reader on and wait for the LED to flash once. Then you need to floor the accelarator for a split second within 10 seconds of the single flash.

The reader will then spit out any fault codes in the ECU, or 11 twice to indicate all clear. Once it has finished displaying the fault codes you should hear the engine speed change and it is in diagnostic mode - that's when you can use your timing lamp.

If you don't press the accelarator quickly enough after that first single flash it won't work and will just error.

This is all off the top of my head but I'm fairly sure its correct. A fault code reader without the manual is as much good as a chocolate teapot
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkN
I think you have to start the engine with the fault code reader plugged in, but off. Then switch the fault code reader on and wait for the LED to flash once. Then you need to floor the accelarator for a split second within 10 seconds of the single flash.

The reader will then spit out any fault codes in the ECU, or 11 twice to indicate all clear. Once it has finished displaying the fault codes you should hear the engine speed change and it is in diagnostic mode - that's when you can use your timing lamp.

If you don't press the accelarator quickly enough after that first single flash it won't work and will just error.

This is all off the top of my head but I'm fairly sure its correct. A fault code reader without the manual is as much good as a chocolate teapot
managed 2 get hold of another fault code reader so will try that,this 1 has got the manual with it this time
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 04:47 PM
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The manual I posted was the manual for the fault code reader you said you were using - from the manufacturer, did you read it?
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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yeh read it but still couldnt figure out how the car went into diagnostic mode like markn said so thought i would try another 1 thats all
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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have you checked the wiring pin outs like a lot of people said?

you cannot adjust the timing, only the ecu can

are you using all frst sensors?

have you got all the plugs on correctly

is the engine fine. i.e compression etc
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 11:30 AM
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yep tried all the wiring

i know i cant adjust the timing just need 2 try find out if a sensor is down

yep got all frst sensors

checked all plugs a few times all are connected correctly

what would the compression be at then as its going 2 b lower than a normal engine anyway isnt it
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Compression check just reveals the 'health' of the engine - engines will vary anyway, but ideally the cyclinders readings need to be within 10% (or possibly less) of each other.

What exactly was the problem again?
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Billabong
Compression check just reveals the 'health' of the engine - engines will vary anyway, but ideally the cyclinders readings need to be within 10% (or possibly less) of each other.

What exactly was the problem again?
sorry didnt explain about the compression test properly,what i meant was what would the reading be on the compression test as its a turbo engine so i thought it would read a bit lower anyway wouldnt it

the problem is that the car seems to tickover fine just a bit rich and hesitates a bit when u rev the engine but can pass that,then when you try 2 drive the car it will just about pull away its got worse since i changed some wires abou on the ecu,then when its rolling and the turbo starts 2 spool up it just starts coughing and spluttering and will cut out if you dont dip the clutch so that the engine isnt under load,ive put a timing gun on it and its showing 60degrees of advance at tdc on the bottom pulley,

the problem sounds like timing is out to me like on an old engine if the distributor was moved,the fault code reader has shown up a fault with the engine coolant temp sensor and the iscv and another fault which i cant seem 2 figure out
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