gunson fault code reader
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From: luton
does anybody know where i can get the codes from off the internet atall,my mate has lent me his 1 to check my efi erst so the model number is 4152 but he cant find the manual so if anybody has any ideas wud be much appreciated
That's not what I said.
I said that I used the fault code reader to set the engine into diagnostic mode. It can't actually change the timing.
Once the engine is in diagnostic mode the timing is set to a static 10 degrees regardless of RPM or anything else. You can then use the timing gun to check that it is set correctly. If the timing gun shows the timing at anything other than 10 degrees something is wrong.
The timing on a proper FRST with the flywheel CPS sensor is not adjustable unless you use the octane ground cable and that only retards it by 2 degrees IIRC. However on a car that has been converted to EFi using a aftermarket trigger wheel then it often is adjustable. You then need to set the timing to be 10 degrees in diagnostic mode in which case it will be spot-on.
I'm sorry if I didn't explain this very well before - I wrote the reply in a hurry.
I said that I used the fault code reader to set the engine into diagnostic mode. It can't actually change the timing.
Once the engine is in diagnostic mode the timing is set to a static 10 degrees regardless of RPM or anything else. You can then use the timing gun to check that it is set correctly. If the timing gun shows the timing at anything other than 10 degrees something is wrong.
The timing on a proper FRST with the flywheel CPS sensor is not adjustable unless you use the octane ground cable and that only retards it by 2 degrees IIRC. However on a car that has been converted to EFi using a aftermarket trigger wheel then it often is adjustable. You then need to set the timing to be 10 degrees in diagnostic mode in which case it will be spot-on.
I'm sorry if I didn't explain this very well before - I wrote the reply in a hurry.
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From: luton
Originally Posted by MarkN
That's not what I said.
I said that I used the fault code reader to set the engine into diagnostic mode. It can't actually change the timing.
Once the engine is in diagnostic mode the timing is set to a static 10 degrees regardless of RPM or anything else. You can then use the timing gun to check that it is set correctly. If the timing gun shows the timing at anything other than 10 degrees something is wrong.
The timing on a proper FRST with the flywheel CPS sensor is not adjustable unless you use the octane ground cable and that only retards it by 2 degrees IIRC. However on a car that has been converted to EFi using a aftermarket trigger wheel then it often is adjustable. You then need to set the timing to be 10 degrees in diagnostic mode in which case it will be spot-on.
I'm sorry if I didn't explain this very well before - I wrote the reply in a hurry.
I said that I used the fault code reader to set the engine into diagnostic mode. It can't actually change the timing.
Once the engine is in diagnostic mode the timing is set to a static 10 degrees regardless of RPM or anything else. You can then use the timing gun to check that it is set correctly. If the timing gun shows the timing at anything other than 10 degrees something is wrong.
The timing on a proper FRST with the flywheel CPS sensor is not adjustable unless you use the octane ground cable and that only retards it by 2 degrees IIRC. However on a car that has been converted to EFi using a aftermarket trigger wheel then it often is adjustable. You then need to set the timing to be 10 degrees in diagnostic mode in which case it will be spot-on.
I'm sorry if I didn't explain this very well before - I wrote the reply in a hurry.
I think you have to start the engine with the fault code reader plugged in, but off. Then switch the fault code reader on and wait for the LED to flash once. Then you need to floor the accelarator for a split second within 10 seconds of the single flash.
The reader will then spit out any fault codes in the ECU, or 11 twice to indicate all clear. Once it has finished displaying the fault codes you should hear the engine speed change and it is in diagnostic mode - that's when you can use your timing lamp.
If you don't press the accelarator quickly enough after that first single flash it won't work and will just error.
This is all off the top of my head but I'm fairly sure its correct. A fault code reader without the manual is as much good as a chocolate teapot
The reader will then spit out any fault codes in the ECU, or 11 twice to indicate all clear. Once it has finished displaying the fault codes you should hear the engine speed change and it is in diagnostic mode - that's when you can use your timing lamp.
If you don't press the accelarator quickly enough after that first single flash it won't work and will just error.
This is all off the top of my head but I'm fairly sure its correct. A fault code reader without the manual is as much good as a chocolate teapot
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From: luton
Originally Posted by MarkN
I think you have to start the engine with the fault code reader plugged in, but off. Then switch the fault code reader on and wait for the LED to flash once. Then you need to floor the accelarator for a split second within 10 seconds of the single flash.
The reader will then spit out any fault codes in the ECU, or 11 twice to indicate all clear. Once it has finished displaying the fault codes you should hear the engine speed change and it is in diagnostic mode - that's when you can use your timing lamp.
If you don't press the accelarator quickly enough after that first single flash it won't work and will just error.
This is all off the top of my head but I'm fairly sure its correct. A fault code reader without the manual is as much good as a chocolate teapot
The reader will then spit out any fault codes in the ECU, or 11 twice to indicate all clear. Once it has finished displaying the fault codes you should hear the engine speed change and it is in diagnostic mode - that's when you can use your timing lamp.
If you don't press the accelarator quickly enough after that first single flash it won't work and will just error.
This is all off the top of my head but I'm fairly sure its correct. A fault code reader without the manual is as much good as a chocolate teapot
have you checked the wiring pin outs like a lot of people said?
you cannot adjust the timing, only the ecu can
are you using all frst sensors?
have you got all the plugs on correctly
is the engine fine. i.e compression etc
you cannot adjust the timing, only the ecu can
are you using all frst sensors?
have you got all the plugs on correctly
is the engine fine. i.e compression etc
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From: luton
yep tried all the wiring
i know i cant adjust the timing just need 2 try find out if a sensor is down
yep got all frst sensors
checked all plugs a few times all are connected correctly
what would the compression be at then as its going 2 b lower than a normal engine anyway isnt it
i know i cant adjust the timing just need 2 try find out if a sensor is down
yep got all frst sensors
checked all plugs a few times all are connected correctly
what would the compression be at then as its going 2 b lower than a normal engine anyway isnt it
Compression check just reveals the 'health' of the engine - engines will vary anyway, but ideally the cyclinders readings need to be within 10% (or possibly less) of each other.
What exactly was the problem again?
What exactly was the problem again?
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From: luton
Originally Posted by Billabong
Compression check just reveals the 'health' of the engine - engines will vary anyway, but ideally the cyclinders readings need to be within 10% (or possibly less) of each other.
What exactly was the problem again?
What exactly was the problem again?
the problem is that the car seems to tickover fine just a bit rich and hesitates a bit when u rev the engine but can pass that,then when you try 2 drive the car it will just about pull away its got worse since i changed some wires abou on the ecu,then when its rolling and the turbo starts 2 spool up it just starts coughing and spluttering and will cut out if you dont dip the clutch so that the engine isnt under load,ive put a timing gun on it and its showing 60degrees of advance at tdc on the bottom pulley,
the problem sounds like timing is out to me like on an old engine if the distributor was moved,the fault code reader has shown up a fault with the engine coolant temp sensor and the iscv and another fault which i cant seem 2 figure out
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