whats involved to get a block long studded
20-03-2007, 07:32 AM
#41
Happily retired
Hi
Dont listen to the corner cutters mate, get it long studded, do it once ,do it right is my motto. Preparation of the Block is one of the best ways to ensure long term reliability.
I wish you well in this venture, take my advice & listen to someone who has proved the worth of such a mod.
Dont listen to the corner cutters mate, get it long studded, do it once ,do it right is my motto. Preparation of the Block is one of the best ways to ensure long term reliability.
I wish you well in this venture, take my advice & listen to someone who has proved the worth of such a mod.
20-03-2007, 09:06 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by phil_focus
isnt the stretched bolt going to be more brittle and more prone to breaking?!?!
i'd prefer to use stronger bolts
i'd prefer to use stronger bolts
The most important thing as i have found out with experience is not to drive on much boost until the engine is at ful operating temp.
And my experience is Cosworth ownership and normally everyday use for the last 12 years
20-03-2007, 09:23 PM
#43
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ok ok ok, we have started something new now,
whats this wire rung busness. is it better to have that done, what does it involve,
how much bla bla bla
whats this wire rung busness. is it better to have that done, what does it involve,
how much bla bla bla
20-03-2007, 10:01 PM
#44
Nutter,
If you have head failure with the long studs, I would suggest that this is either because of the type of long studs you used (there are lots of dodgy ones floating about), or improper head preparation.
The only reason I say this is that I have had 6-long studs in my engine for longer and harder than most - 35,000 miles at 2.2 bar peak of VERY HARD use (with the same turbo as you
), water temps as high as 120 deg on track and not had one single problem what-so-ever. So how do you explain that?
For a 500bhp+ engine where you don't want to be replacing the head-bolts every few thousand miles (or at best having to re-torq them), I would only long stud it.
As to a stud and nut kit, you couldn't PAY me to use that, as these pull on the blocks and crack them.
If you have head failure with the long studs, I would suggest that this is either because of the type of long studs you used (there are lots of dodgy ones floating about), or improper head preparation.
The only reason I say this is that I have had 6-long studs in my engine for longer and harder than most - 35,000 miles at 2.2 bar peak of VERY HARD use (with the same turbo as you
), water temps as high as 120 deg on track and not had one single problem what-so-ever. So how do you explain that? For a 500bhp+ engine where you don't want to be replacing the head-bolts every few thousand miles (or at best having to re-torq them), I would only long stud it.
As to a stud and nut kit, you couldn't PAY me to use that, as these pull on the blocks and crack them.
20-03-2007, 10:09 PM
#45
10K+ Poster!!
my block is long studded and wire rung..
I would recomend this to anyone as i have had no trouble with head gaskets etc.
the engine has seen between 2.2 and 2.5 bar for over 10k miles now.
Spiked at 40 psi the other nite and stil no troubles
I would recomend this to anyone as i have had no trouble with head gaskets etc.
the engine has seen between 2.2 and 2.5 bar for over 10k miles now.
Spiked at 40 psi the other nite and stil no troubles
20-03-2007, 10:15 PM
#46
PassionFord Post Whore!!
I think that prooves my original point to the guy asking the question.
there is NO right or wrong answer- only what each individual tuner opts for.
Hence asking the questions here are going to get the guy no where apart from involved / starting an arguement.
Best thing you can do is talk to informed people and decide whats the best thing for you to do based on your skills/knowledge/funds.
Jake
there is NO right or wrong answer- only what each individual tuner opts for.
Hence asking the questions here are going to get the guy no where apart from involved / starting an arguement.
Best thing you can do is talk to informed people and decide whats the best thing for you to do based on your skills/knowledge/funds.
Jake
20-03-2007, 10:53 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Nutter,
If you have head failure with the long studs, I would suggest that this is either because of the type of long studs you used (there are lots of dodgy ones floating about), or improper head preparation.
The only reason I say this is that I have had 6-long studs in my engine for longer and harder than most - 35,000 miles at 2.2 bar peak of VERY HARD use (with the same turbo as you), water temps as high as 120 deg on track and not had one single problem what-so-ever. So how do you explain that?
For a 500bhp+ engine where you don't want to be replacing the head-bolts every few thousand miles (or at best having to re-torq them), I would only long stud it.
As to a stud and nut kit, you couldn't PAY me to use that, as these pull on the blocks and crack them.
If you have head failure with the long studs, I would suggest that this is either because of the type of long studs you used (there are lots of dodgy ones floating about), or improper head preparation.
The only reason I say this is that I have had 6-long studs in my engine for longer and harder than most - 35,000 miles at 2.2 bar peak of VERY HARD use (with the same turbo as you
), water temps as high as 120 deg on track and not had one single problem what-so-ever. So how do you explain that? For a 500bhp+ engine where you don't want to be replacing the head-bolts every few thousand miles (or at best having to re-torq them), I would only long stud it.
As to a stud and nut kit, you couldn't PAY me to use that, as these pull on the blocks and crack them.
I will agree with you that quality of studs is questionable, and at the price they are, even Mountune studs are not perfect!!!
Thats why i now use std head bolts, and they will be re-torqued every few thousand miles, and they will NOT fail
21-03-2007, 08:21 AM
#48
Aaah, so the real reason they failed, is you used shonky cheap ones 
.
I have never seen a failure with the Mountune ones..... In fact, I would say you'd get a rod out the side of the block before the head gasket failed with these (providing a GENUINE WRC gasket was used) 
.
.I have never seen a failure with the Mountune ones....
. In fact, I would say you'd get a rod out the side of the block before the head gasket failed with these (providing a GENUINE WRC gasket was used) .
21-03-2007, 07:20 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Aaah, so the real reason they failed, is you used shonky cheap ones .
I have never seen a failure with the Mountune ones..... In fact, I would say you'd get a rod out the side of the block before the head gasket failed with these (providing a GENUINE WRC gasket was used) .
.I have never seen a failure with the Mountune ones....
. In fact, I would say you'd get a rod out the side of the block before the head gasket failed with these (providing a GENUINE WRC gasket was used) .
21-03-2007, 08:11 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by abdr500
^NUTTER^
you re torque your std head bolts that cant be right as they stretch you will soon get to a point were they snap
you re torque your std head bolts that cant be right as they stretch you will soon get to a point were they snap
Tell me, do you know anything about metallurgy? You see i do
21-03-2007, 08:22 PM
#52
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So from what ive red so far the best thing to use are 6 mountune long studs from mike r is saying seens right to me, although i have heard that standard headbolts and a wrc headgasket are a good combination but i dont know about using them over 500 bhp but im sure nutter will tell us if his fails
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