Scotch Locking
13-03-2007, 03:41 PM
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Scotch Locking
Does it matter which way round you wire them up?
I had mine set up like this
Now the green wire was the main source, i cut the wire as i needed to take a feed off it. I didnt think it mattered how i wired it up, so i had it wired up like that. The Lights that it was suppose to feed didnt seem very bright, so should i remove the green wire which is in the top of the scotch lock and place it on the right handside leaving the grey on its own?
Any help would be grate
I had mine set up like this
Now the green wire was the main source, i cut the wire as i needed to take a feed off it. I didnt think it mattered how i wired it up, so i had it wired up like that. The Lights that it was suppose to feed didnt seem very bright, so should i remove the green wire which is in the top of the scotch lock and place it on the right handside leaving the grey on its own?
Any help would be grate
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13-03-2007, 04:02 PM
#10
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As said dreadfull things, should be banned, "T"'s are not much better but maybe better for your application depending on current draw.
Only solder if using PURE SILVER SOLDER, as the corrosive flux makes the wire brittle and if subject to vibration can easily break, use silver solder with no flux.
tabetha
Only solder if using PURE SILVER SOLDER, as the corrosive flux makes the wire brittle and if subject to vibration can easily break, use silver solder with no flux.
tabetha
13-03-2007, 06:34 PM
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Scotch locking should only really be used for testing something out or a temporary fit. If it's going to stay permanent then you should solder it.
To help with your problem though - have you measured the current draw for whatever the green wire is feeding and then checked what the current draw is for this new light? It sounds to me like you're drawing too much current from the power line.
Have you thought about wiring up a cable from the battery through a relay and tapping into the cable to switch on the power from the battery?
As said - solder the connections in the future, it's not that difficult to learn how to do and if you get a gas iron you can do it without the need for extension leads.
Cheers,
Andy
To help with your problem though - have you measured the current draw for whatever the green wire is feeding and then checked what the current draw is for this new light? It sounds to me like you're drawing too much current from the power line.
Have you thought about wiring up a cable from the battery through a relay and tapping into the cable to switch on the power from the battery?
As said - solder the connections in the future, it's not that difficult to learn how to do and if you get a gas iron you can do it without the need for extension leads.
Cheers,
Andy
13-03-2007, 08:10 PM
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13-03-2007, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by andyhardy
Scotch locking should only really be used for testing something out or a temporary fit. If it's going to stay permanent then you should solder it.
To help with your problem though - have you measured the current draw for whatever the green wire is feeding and then checked what the current draw is for this new light? It sounds to me like you're drawing too much current from the power line.
Have you thought about wiring up a cable from the battery through a relay and tapping into the cable to switch on the power from the battery?
As said - solder the connections in the future, it's not that difficult to learn how to do and if you get a gas iron you can do it without the need for extension leads.
Cheers,
Andy
To help with your problem though - have you measured the current draw for whatever the green wire is feeding and then checked what the current draw is for this new light? It sounds to me like you're drawing too much current from the power line.
Have you thought about wiring up a cable from the battery through a relay and tapping into the cable to switch on the power from the battery?
As said - solder the connections in the future, it's not that difficult to learn how to do and if you get a gas iron you can do it without the need for extension leads.
Cheers,
Andy
I get the message about the scotch lock lol dont use them
13-03-2007, 11:10 PM
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It's the best way to guarantee something is going to get the power it needs without putting a strain on existing wiring designed for a different use.
Cheers,
Andy
Cheers,
Andy
14-03-2007, 12:19 AM
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You'll need:
A fuse and fuse holder (with current rating only slightly higher than the maximum current draw of the device you're installing)
Cable (with current rating higher than maximum current draw of the device)
Earth Cable (same as supply cable but in black to help you remember what it is!).
A relay (same as the wire - make sure it's bull enough for the job you're asking of it)
An existing signal wire in the car to switch the relay on or off.
As for wiring it up, depending on the relay you'll need to take a signal wire to switch the device (via the relay) on and off (probably the wire you scotch-locked into or one that switches on and off at the same time) to the switched live pin. The switch cable doesn't need to be as thick as the main power cable as the relay itself will only use about 100mA. Earth the relay to the chassis of the car on the ground pin.Earth the device you're powering. Hook up the power output pin of the relay to the device. Fit your correct rated fuse and test.
If any of that doesn't make any sense there's a really nice guide on how to do it I found after Googling just now
http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html
Cheers,
Andy
A fuse and fuse holder (with current rating only slightly higher than the maximum current draw of the device you're installing)
Cable (with current rating higher than maximum current draw of the device)
Earth Cable (same as supply cable but in black to help you remember what it is!).
A relay (same as the wire - make sure it's bull enough for the job you're asking of it)
An existing signal wire in the car to switch the relay on or off.
As for wiring it up, depending on the relay you'll need to take a signal wire to switch the device (via the relay) on and off (probably the wire you scotch-locked into or one that switches on and off at the same time) to the switched live pin. The switch cable doesn't need to be as thick as the main power cable as the relay itself will only use about 100mA. Earth the relay to the chassis of the car on the ground pin.Earth the device you're powering. Hook up the power output pin of the relay to the device. Fit your correct rated fuse and test.
If any of that doesn't make any sense there's a really nice guide on how to do it I found after Googling just now
http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html
Cheers,
Andy
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