Anti roll bar VS. compression struts
#121
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Originally Posted by TF Rallyesport
trade it in for mine.
by the way,snapped rear shaft from stage one,4th fastest at weeton in front wheel drive,carnt be that bad eh?
by the way,snapped rear shaft from stage one,4th fastest at weeton in front wheel drive,carnt be that bad eh?
only 4th , shit bastard
you need a test driver to set it up for you, i did croft once on a gravel setup, handled very surprising to a lot of people
#123
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by TF Rallyesport
i will go to croft,any time.
#124
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by TF Rallyesport
i will go to croft,any time.
#126
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Si B do me a favour mate, when you get your car back on the road take it out for a drive then go back home and disconnect 1 side of the ARB and take it back down the same road.
Your car being set up as a standard car is already under compression, so adding a compression strut kit will in effect only give you independant suspension and fixed adjustable castor. (or non adjustable castor if you compare it to the flexible springyness of the ARB).
If you feel you would like stiffer springs then like you say they are cheap enough to buy, but please dont go too stiff as with fully independant suspension on a road car you need a little lean on cornering to help give the road tyres the grip. Set it too hard and all it will just do is skate across the road in an understeering arse twitching moment.
People like Tim & Ian and other rally guys are massively overqualified in this subject and dont think twice of having a full package with a minimum of £200 rubber on each corner to help get the grip.
And its difficult to say this without belittling but a road car with £80 tyres on will indeed notice a massive improvement under braking and cornering, but it will not save you the extra 2 seconds per lap that these lads will have with their WRC stuff.
Start somewhere and use it as a base point.
I have spent hours and hours trackside with both rally cars and racing cars, the number of times the driver has come in (with stiff suspension) on a damp or wet day and asked us to disconnect the ARB (front or rear) or reduce its stiffness if bladed to make the car turn in, or handle better sometimes really does make you realise why the propper cars had driver adjustable stuff.
Whilst it is very interesting to read all the input on this thread from qualified people, it also needs bringing back down into road car level to someone who is making first steps on the ladder
Do it, try it and report back please. If you need help ring the guy who made your road car kit, you have his number and he is more than willing to offer further advice and support. Buy the same kit from other trade outlets and most will just ask for an order number, a credit card number and a postal address and thats it. I know for a fact that well in excess of 500 of these type of kits have been sold over the years to people like you. If they were no good and needed massive mods they wouldnt still be being made and used.
I wonder if Tims Sunbeam will have WRC parts on it, and if not will he refuse to drive it ??
Your car being set up as a standard car is already under compression, so adding a compression strut kit will in effect only give you independant suspension and fixed adjustable castor. (or non adjustable castor if you compare it to the flexible springyness of the ARB).
If you feel you would like stiffer springs then like you say they are cheap enough to buy, but please dont go too stiff as with fully independant suspension on a road car you need a little lean on cornering to help give the road tyres the grip. Set it too hard and all it will just do is skate across the road in an understeering arse twitching moment.
People like Tim & Ian and other rally guys are massively overqualified in this subject and dont think twice of having a full package with a minimum of £200 rubber on each corner to help get the grip.
And its difficult to say this without belittling but a road car with £80 tyres on will indeed notice a massive improvement under braking and cornering, but it will not save you the extra 2 seconds per lap that these lads will have with their WRC stuff.
Start somewhere and use it as a base point.
I have spent hours and hours trackside with both rally cars and racing cars, the number of times the driver has come in (with stiff suspension) on a damp or wet day and asked us to disconnect the ARB (front or rear) or reduce its stiffness if bladed to make the car turn in, or handle better sometimes really does make you realise why the propper cars had driver adjustable stuff.
Whilst it is very interesting to read all the input on this thread from qualified people, it also needs bringing back down into road car level to someone who is making first steps on the ladder
Do it, try it and report back please. If you need help ring the guy who made your road car kit, you have his number and he is more than willing to offer further advice and support. Buy the same kit from other trade outlets and most will just ask for an order number, a credit card number and a postal address and thats it. I know for a fact that well in excess of 500 of these type of kits have been sold over the years to people like you. If they were no good and needed massive mods they wouldnt still be being made and used.
I wonder if Tims Sunbeam will have WRC parts on it, and if not will he refuse to drive it ??
#127
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Tim,
Are you going to be at Croft for National Day, er sorry, I mean the Durham / Derby regional day ?
Tony,
Regarding your comment about NOT tuning suspension to suit different drivers characteristics and preferred car balance - are you on crack?
Different drives like different balances to the car, which is fine tuned with spring rates / damping AND ARB choice to set the car up to suit the driving style of the individual driver, matched to both the track and weather conditions. One man's prefered handling characteristic is another man's crash into a tree .
Are you going to be at Croft for National Day, er sorry, I mean the Durham / Derby regional day ?
Tony,
Regarding your comment about NOT tuning suspension to suit different drivers characteristics and preferred car balance - are you on crack?
Different drives like different balances to the car, which is fine tuned with spring rates / damping AND ARB choice to set the car up to suit the driving style of the individual driver, matched to both the track and weather conditions. One man's prefered handling characteristic is another man's crash into a tree .
youre not going to get any improvement at all .A badly matched kit will be worse than not having one at all .
I actually use these parts, ive spent time and effort choosing the bits that
go together and testing agianst the stopwatch in a controlled environment , it does make me angry when a thread based on just bolting expensive bits on becomes a discussion about whats best when you have no experience of why your even doing it ! A std car is a well sorted track car with just a few tweeks and a decent set of dampers , ticking the boxes on your wish list of GpA parts wont make you any quicker unless youre prepared to go extensive testing ! Maybe i am on crack for trying to add to these pointless discussions , but when your out of context quotes make it look like i haven't a clue its usually because i cant be fkin arsed to waste my time printing essays that no-one will take notice off !
#129
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Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
Si B do me a favour mate, when you get your car back on the road take it out for a drive then go back home and disconnect 1 side of the ARB and take it back down the same road.
Your car being set up as a standard car is already under compression, so adding a compression strut kit will in effect only give you independant suspension and fixed adjustable castor. (or non adjustable castor if you compare it to the flexible springyness of the ARB).
If you feel you would like stiffer springs then like you say they are cheap enough to buy, but please dont go too stiff as with fully independant suspension on a road car you need a little lean on cornering to help give the road tyres the grip. Set it too hard and all it will just do is skate across the road in an understeering arse twitching moment.
People like Tim & Ian and other rally guys are massively overqualified in this subject and dont think twice of having a full package with a minimum of £200 rubber on each corner to help get the grip.
And its difficult to say this without belittling but a road car with £80 tyres on will indeed notice a massive improvement under braking and cornering, but it will not save you the extra 2 seconds per lap that these lads will have with their WRC stuff.
Start somewhere and use it as a base point.
I have spent hours and hours trackside with both rally cars and racing cars, the number of times the driver has come in (with stiff suspension) on a damp or wet day and asked us to disconnect the ARB (front or rear) or reduce its stiffness if bladed to make the car turn in, or handle better sometimes really does make you realise why the propper cars had driver adjustable stuff.
Whilst it is very interesting to read all the input on this thread from qualified people, it also needs bringing back down into road car level to someone who is making first steps on the ladder
Do it, try it and report back please. If you need help ring the guy who made your road car kit, you have his number and he is more than willing to offer further advice and support. Buy the same kit from other trade outlets and most will just ask for an order number, a credit card number and a postal address and thats it. I know for a fact that well in excess of 500 of these type of kits have been sold over the years to people like you. If they were no good and needed massive mods they wouldnt still be being made and used.
I wonder if Tims Sunbeam will have WRC parts on it, and if not will he refuse to drive it ??
Your car being set up as a standard car is already under compression, so adding a compression strut kit will in effect only give you independant suspension and fixed adjustable castor. (or non adjustable castor if you compare it to the flexible springyness of the ARB).
If you feel you would like stiffer springs then like you say they are cheap enough to buy, but please dont go too stiff as with fully independant suspension on a road car you need a little lean on cornering to help give the road tyres the grip. Set it too hard and all it will just do is skate across the road in an understeering arse twitching moment.
People like Tim & Ian and other rally guys are massively overqualified in this subject and dont think twice of having a full package with a minimum of £200 rubber on each corner to help get the grip.
And its difficult to say this without belittling but a road car with £80 tyres on will indeed notice a massive improvement under braking and cornering, but it will not save you the extra 2 seconds per lap that these lads will have with their WRC stuff.
Start somewhere and use it as a base point.
I have spent hours and hours trackside with both rally cars and racing cars, the number of times the driver has come in (with stiff suspension) on a damp or wet day and asked us to disconnect the ARB (front or rear) or reduce its stiffness if bladed to make the car turn in, or handle better sometimes really does make you realise why the propper cars had driver adjustable stuff.
Whilst it is very interesting to read all the input on this thread from qualified people, it also needs bringing back down into road car level to someone who is making first steps on the ladder
Do it, try it and report back please. If you need help ring the guy who made your road car kit, you have his number and he is more than willing to offer further advice and support. Buy the same kit from other trade outlets and most will just ask for an order number, a credit card number and a postal address and thats it. I know for a fact that well in excess of 500 of these type of kits have been sold over the years to people like you. If they were no good and needed massive mods they wouldnt still be being made and used.
I wonder if Tims Sunbeam will have WRC parts on it, and if not will he refuse to drive it ??
IF (big if!) my car fires up this weekend I will indeed do the road test you have suggested - bar undone and done up and feedback exactly what I find.
I am new to all this, but this post has been a very good read, and if I can translate any of it into an improvement on my car it will be worth it.
I'll keep you posted!
Si
#132
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Originally Posted by BROM@ZOO
are them 909 comp strut brackets rare then as i have 2 pairs with rap around brackets
#133
i was takin the piss tim
just wonderd why no body else wants to go to the effort of getting am and weldin a captive nut into the chassie leg thats all instead of using the comp brake set up
i got the ford stamped ones aswell
just wonderd why no body else wants to go to the effort of getting am and weldin a captive nut into the chassie leg thats all instead of using the comp brake set up
i got the ford stamped ones aswell
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Originally Posted by BROM@ZOO
i was takin the piss tim
just wonderd why no body else wants to go to the effort of getting am and weldin a captive nut into the chassie leg thats all instead of using the comp brake set up
i got the ford stamped ones aswell
just wonderd why no body else wants to go to the effort of getting am and weldin a captive nut into the chassie leg thats all instead of using the comp brake set up
i got the ford stamped ones aswell
like i metioned earlier,ford spent millions developing these cars and spent years on r+d.(not the gearbox company either).
#136
Professional Waffler
Originally Posted by markk
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by TF Rallyesport
i will go to croft,any time.
group A cars isnt that far advanced as far as suspension goes, this was capped by the group A ruling with regards pickup points! there dampers are a million times better than 99% of the people on here though
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gareth a group A compresiion strut is completly different to one to fit standard tca's,work very different and fit very different,
and your group A suspension comment is very misinformed,pick up points?
and your group A suspension comment is very misinformed,pick up points?
#138
Professional Waffler
they do fit very differenty, but they dont work any differently
i mean where suspension units are mounted to the chassis, these has to be within limits of the standard cars
i mean where suspension units are mounted to the chassis, these has to be within limits of the standard cars
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so why did boreham do this then?
and why use mag arms on the rear then wrc lateral links?
jack a standard car up and the wheel follows a radious angle in towards the centre line of the car,same as cornering hard or hitting a bump,the tyre contact patch changes massivley,best example is a lowerd 3 door,but a group A set up does not do this,the wheels still go up vertically keeping the trye foot print consistant.
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Originally Posted by GARETH T
they do fit very differenty, but they dont work any differently
i mean where suspension units are mounted to the chassis, these has to be within limits of the standard cars
i mean where suspension units are mounted to the chassis, these has to be within limits of the standard cars
#141
Professional Waffler
because all your above points are within the rules of standard pickup points!
these rules was relaxed slightly for world rally cars, hence the new lateral link suspension
im sure if they was allowed they would of run a un-equal length double wisebone on the back
cracking car though tim
these rules was relaxed slightly for world rally cars, hence the new lateral link suspension
im sure if they was allowed they would of run a un-equal length double wisebone on the back
cracking car though tim
#142
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Originally Posted by GARETH T
Originally Posted by markk
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by TF Rallyesport
i will go to croft,any time.
group A cars isnt that far advanced as far as suspension goes, this was capped by the group A ruling with regards pickup points! there dampers are a million times better than 99% of the people on here though
#143
Tim...i am on your thoughts how the fuck can people diss Grp A or wrc spec ...the money spent developing these is mind boggling....bit like when Deano said a 916sp is the same as the 916bp bar the single seat
...one thing shocked me here...martin h backing out of a race..i never thought i'd see that ...unless he realises secrectly a proper grp a car is in a different league to a home made car
...one thing shocked me here...martin h backing out of a race..i never thought i'd see that ...unless he realises secrectly a proper grp a car is in a different league to a home made car
#144
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Originally Posted by Tony Ryan
Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Tim,
Are you going to be at Croft for National Day, er sorry, I mean the Durham / Derby regional day ?
Tony,
Regarding your comment about NOT tuning suspension to suit different drivers characteristics and preferred car balance - are you on crack?
Different drives like different balances to the car, which is fine tuned with spring rates / damping AND ARB choice to set the car up to suit the driving style of the individual driver, matched to both the track and weather conditions. One man's prefered handling characteristic is another man's crash into a tree .
Are you going to be at Croft for National Day, er sorry, I mean the Durham / Derby regional day ?
Tony,
Regarding your comment about NOT tuning suspension to suit different drivers characteristics and preferred car balance - are you on crack?
Different drives like different balances to the car, which is fine tuned with spring rates / damping AND ARB choice to set the car up to suit the driving style of the individual driver, matched to both the track and weather conditions. One man's prefered handling characteristic is another man's crash into a tree .
youre not going to get any improvement at all .A badly matched kit will be worse than not having one at all .
I actually use these parts, ive spent time and effort choosing the bits that
go together and testing agianst the stopwatch in a controlled environment , it does make me angry when a thread based on just bolting expensive bits on becomes a discussion about whats best when you have no experience of why your even doing it ! A std car is a well sorted track car with just a few tweeks and a decent set of dampers , ticking the boxes on your wish list of GpA parts wont make you any quicker unless youre prepared to go extensive testing ! Maybe i am on crack for trying to add to these pointless discussions , but when your out of context quotes make it look like i haven't a clue its usually because i cant be fkin arsed to waste my time printing essays that no-one will take notice off !
I must have misinterpreted what you were trying to say, as I actually agree with you on this point. I also believe that it is possible to make a relatively standard suspended car to handle superbly without resorting to bolting expensive Grp A / WRC parts on to a car . In fact, I believe my car is proof of that . At the moment, it has VERY basic, but well thought out changes made to the suspension (through years of experimenting), and I believe it to be a very easy car to drive and drive fast .
However, my car is set up for how I like it to handle and I feel that I can peddle it around a track reasonably handily, yet Harvey HATES the way my car handles, so your comment about NOT tuning a car to suit a driving style, I thought was pretty inaccurate. Everything else you have said, I 100% agree with . Just because it is a particular expensive part, doesn't mean it will handle well. For example, Harvey had the FINA Grp A car (which was supposed to have been £250k new), and it had top of the range EVERYTHING on it, but it still didn't handle perfectly. In fact Harvey and Ahmed had to change quite a few things to get it to perform how you would expect it to, so I believe this also proves that just because something WAS top of the range in it's day, that it doesn't mean that there wasn't / isn't room for improvements to be made. You have to remember that Ford never let the Escort spend more than a year with any one team, so development was hampered by this, as everyone was starting from scratch each year and it was never fully developed to it's true potential. So this means that even a Grp A car can be DRASTICALLLY improved on, despite what people may think .
#145
Professional Waffler
Originally Posted by Bosch-Man
Tim...i am on your thoughts how the fuck can people diss Grp A or wrc spec ...the money spent developing these is mind boggling....bit like when Deano said a 916sp is the same as the 916bp bar the single seat
...one thing shocked me here...martin h backing out of a race..i never thought i'd see that ...unless he realises secrectly a proper grp a car is in a different league to a home made car
...one thing shocked me here...martin h backing out of a race..i never thought i'd see that ...unless he realises secrectly a proper grp a car is in a different league to a home made car
#146
Testing the future
good thread.
why all the fuss about the drop links not being vertical? it just changes the leverage ratio so that a thicker bar is needed to get the same torsional stiffness as if the links were vertical (and mounted at the same point on the tca)
i agree with what i think gareth is trying to say - the principles of action of a proper grp a ARB (or other component) are no different to a comp brake (or rally design or whoever) ARB. the fine details of them may give important differences in the control of the suspension - but the PRINCIPLE is the same.
for example - in the case of a compression strut, it's principle of action is to prevent fore and aft movement of the hub. the length, stiffness, joint, mounting points etc will all have an influence over how it does that job, so one may be 'better' than another (or may just suit a different driver/circuit/surface/weather than another).
why all the fuss about the drop links not being vertical? it just changes the leverage ratio so that a thicker bar is needed to get the same torsional stiffness as if the links were vertical (and mounted at the same point on the tca)
i agree with what i think gareth is trying to say - the principles of action of a proper grp a ARB (or other component) are no different to a comp brake (or rally design or whoever) ARB. the fine details of them may give important differences in the control of the suspension - but the PRINCIPLE is the same.
for example - in the case of a compression strut, it's principle of action is to prevent fore and aft movement of the hub. the length, stiffness, joint, mounting points etc will all have an influence over how it does that job, so one may be 'better' than another (or may just suit a different driver/circuit/surface/weather than another).
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