Ford ka , running, but really juddering, engine light on, on the dash

just changed the plugs, whilst at it compression tested

1. 11.6 bar
2. 11.5 bar
3. 10.1 bar
4. 12.2 bar

iscv reading 9.6 ohms

lamba sensor 4 wires

between 2 white wires 7.8 ohms, no reading ground

grey and black wire give no reading between each other, white wires or ground.

help please

 

What makes you think its a lambda sensor problem ?

The test you have done above are normal for such a sensor in working order.

Did you have the fault codes read out ?

It is very unlikeley a lambda sensor fault would give you the symptoms
you describe.

As the dash light is on, I suspect it is another sensor problem.

Dont guess, get the codes read and save yourself time and effort
replacing parts you probally wont need.

 

what year and what engine?

It'll probably be coil pack though.

 

What makes you think its a lambda sensor problem ?

no idea really, was easy to get to

Did you have the fault codes read out ?

err take it i need some sort of equipment, so nope

As the dash light is on, I suspect it is another sensor problem.

Dont guess, get the codes read and save yourself time and effort
replacing parts you probally wont need

just trying basic stuff, with limited knowledge before the other half takes it to fords in the morning

 

On cars over 2 years old, its unlikely a coilpack fault would put the engine
light on as it wont have missfire detection.

 

2001 y plate, 1.3 endura-e

anything i can do to test / check the coil pack

 

Was the engine light on prior to you fiddeling with the car ?

Running teh engine with a sensor disconnected will put the light on so you
may have caused that your self ?????

The lambda sensor doesnt affect fuelling much. It only trims it so wont
cause the engine to judder.

You can test the coil pack but a valid test wont nessecerily rule it out from
being faulty.

On the inputs you should have about 0.5 ohms on each coil.
(cheaper multimeters will read this as a short circuit )

On the coil outputs to the HT lead, you should see a high ohm reading of
around 5000 to 10000 ohms (5 to 10 kilohms)

 

light came on before, whist driving, engine juddering, she was on her way home in it, will go and have a look at the coil pack, and try it with my cheep multimeter

 

right re done the comp test wet,

1. 19 bar
2. 17 bar
3. 17 bar
4 17.8 bar

 

Values look ok to me.

Compression failure wont put the engine light on though

 

cheers realise that now, gotta be like said a sensor / module



out of interest, whats the ford diagnostic stuff called, and where'd you get it?

i paid Ł200 for vagcom for my audi and its shit hot, saved me a few quid more than it cost

 

Unfortunately, the system on your car doesnt have an easy "flash codes"
type system so can only be read out with expensive equipment.
Other non Ford garages may be able to read out the codes for you for
a small fee if you want to try and fix it yourself but most places have a
habit of replacing parts until the fault is fixed due to their lack of
experience and charging you for the pleasure (even some ford garages).

My advice, if you take it to a garage, get a quotation after they have done
a code read (even a ford garage).

 

shame, ohwell, will do as said get it read and then a quote on whats wrong, needs changing etc.

 

not running on no2, no spark , just pulled the leads one one by one


?? right coil pack? lead?

 

Fil,

Coil pack fires plugs in pairs.

If its not running on one plug then the orther isnt either.

Coils 1 and 4 / 2 and 3 are paired. (I think this is correct for your engine)


Still doesnt explain why the engine warning light is on though..

 

just changed the coil pack this morning, all good

cheers for all the help, she will be happy, plus i get my car back