Mike1

Was your geometry all skew whiff because of an accident?

Azrael

Mike1it wasn't 100% spot-on although it wasn't that bad.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Must be all down to the set-up, as mine handles lovely, as you can testify from the passenger lap of the Ring .

Azrael

You yourself said you weren't at the car's limit because of the driveshaft ;P


But seriously yours is surely great I'm talking about standard(ish) car. It's the same with my "company car". It doesn't even feel similarly to standard one. Standard Impreza GC8 is rubbish on tarmac compared to Cossie - no turn-in whatsoever.


Anyway - we'll see this year, maybe it's just down to my shonky driving skills

Mike1

This article might interest some people as regards the handling of the 3-door especially the bits on the penultimate page. You might find it fun to look at anyway as it is a comparison of the 3-dr vs the E30 M3 ( performance Car was the forerunner of "EVO" mag )

Here it is http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...shrops/3-door/

If you go on a few more years it is also interesting to see all the work that went on the 4-dr changes as regards the suspension and why they were made and what SVE were trying to achieve. When the later car was rematched against the BMW it was a different story

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

im glad i haven't had any of this since it was set properly yrs ago


marco

bud-weis

You CAN'T just say that

it has improved massively form when i first had it.....i've changed all 4 tyres and the front is set to toe-out slightly (i'm gonna play with these settings more i reckon)

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

i think the main problem, is that the car designed with 15" wheels originaly

once you go bigger wheels you have to change the settings to suit ,
putting the adjustable tca on is a big help


marco

bud-weis

yeah,i think i'm gonna order a set actually,what's a good setting to have then,without causig massively premature tyre wear or anything like that?

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

I've given you some settings, but you have chosen to ignore them .

Mike1

Isn't that Jim's old car - I thought he had a set on in the past along the same time he had the 3-dr hubs?

bud-weis

yeap,Jim's old car,and the current TCA's aren't adjustable i don't think (although typing this i'm starting to think i'd better double check )

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

try what mike has said first ....fair play to him for giving you the advice


it's not going to cost you a great deal



marco

Mike1

Definitely worth a quick look before committing to buy some

bud-weis

yeas Mike,and i AM very very grateful....and i will try them out very soon (may order the TCA's first) the only reason i haven't used your settings was because the guy doing the adjusting is very very good with cossies,and his adjustments made a good deal of difference.....but now with new tyres all round,i'll try your settings and let you know how i get on

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

martin

personally i dont like getting involved with geometry settings because alot of peeps have got nothing on there cars to adjust settings and how far do people go on a road car with ATCS's/roes jointed trailing arms/castor ect ect theres not that many that do

my car adjustable is the sence tow in/out rear / camber

front castor is preset 10mm more forward than standard /adjust tca's i can mess about with it to suit

i have no issues with turning in or tramlining only because it's adjustable and has been set up properly not too much for track or road

people are on about bumpsteer once the beam is solid mounted and you have rose jointed rear arms and rose jointed rear suspesion(top/bottom)most of the bumpsteer is removed because nothing can move to an extent rubber moves metal doesn't simple

everything on my car is metal to metal but like i said how far do you go on a road car

i am well happy with my car i got got the right balanace between both worlds

marco

Azrael

marco polo no problems with allt hose metal-to-metal joints in road usage? Corrosion? Wear?

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi Azreal

been on the car good few yrs no probs so far however the will need replacing at some point but so do rubbers

my beam is also solid mounted to stop movement



it was best thing i ever done i will never ever go back to polybushes or rubbers on the chaissis

theres 3 things i kept on my car which was uprated then taken off,

was the rear diff mount /gearbox mount and the front engine mounts

all these i put back to standard as they were transfering noise and vibration

on a 4wd it's best to keep the uprated engine mounts

marco

Azrael

marco polo I have vibratechnics engine and gearbox mounts and they are fine to me.

bud-weis

thanks for the info Marco

personally i'm not a fan of polybushes AT ALL,every car i have had them on (including my current one) has not felt as good as a car with new standard parts (or solid joints)

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

yes but they are needed on 4wd cool is all your back end metal to metal too ?


if so do you find more vibration through them

marco

Azrael

Nope I have back end only polybushed. When I have the money I'm thinking about buying adjustable rear beam but I am worried about joints failing in rough Polish road conditions. Typical opinion here is that uniball-joints are not possible to use on the road. Quite to the contrrary there are many such cars in the UK, and I personaly have no idea what the truth is and have no money for experiments :-(

Most tiring part I installed so far is gearbox mount from vibratechnics. Especially when idling the vibration is quite intensive, but at the same time the drivetrain is much more stable helping both gearshifts in quick driving and handling by making on/off throttle transitions smoother without woobling of the standard car.

Apart from that I nly have adjustale TCA's with metal to metal on the attachment to front sub-frame. The rest is polybushes (which I like just fine on other cars I know, e.g. Imprezas).

KW-rscos

*edited*

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi Azrael

let me give you an honest opinion here your car is a 4wd and you have poly bushes on the back of your car you also have got rubbers on your trailing arms , you have also got rubbers on your suspension

now what is stoping your beam/ suspension/ trailing arms/suspension from moveing ????

how cam i say this ...but when you have got metal to metal and proper suspension ... it totaly transforms the car on the way it handles really and truly does once it's set up
you cant beat metal to metal simple as theres no substitute

there is nothing wrong with metal to metal on the road the only thing you will notice is more vibration though the car "as you have got uprated gearbox mount and engine mounts "

i dont get vibration at all because my car is rwd and has the standard diff mount/gearbox mount/and engine mounts and my car feels no differance to a car with polys on the road infact it's a 10x better


dont belive everything you hear about rose joints alot people comment about them who haven't even experianced them they are great simple as that

and like i said i wouldn't go back to rubbers on the chassis ever again


you can ask anyone that has driven my car what's it's like on the road and like i said it's no worse than polys


i dont know what the roads are like in poland so i cant comment but honestly it does most defo eliminate alot of the bumpsteer once you have all the metal to metal back end and you know one good thing when you have this it makes the suspension do the work not the rubbers

i have even asked Mike to drive the car to see what he thinks

I know your is 4wd and mine is 2wd they are more or less the same car

I am no expert on this subject and i'm am only going from experiance what works and what i have tried and spent lot of money to sort it and then give it all away free i must be mad

marco

bud-weis

No, i don't have them

where's best to get them from then people

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Having everything rose jointed, will not necessarily remove bump-steer , this is all about how the geometry is set, so that when the suspension travels up and down (the change from static ride height, to full droop (wheels at the longest extension with car off ground) to full compression (suspension compressed until bump stops), the toe remains where it has been set at it's static level.

A car with "bump steer" means that as the suspension travels up and down, the toe geometry changes depending on what height the wheel is in in its travel .

Mike1

hmm, that's strange.......

Why not try Karl at Zoo? He used to do 2 types - one with replaceable balljoints.
He's very good on chassis stuff

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi Mike

i understand all that but the point i'm making !!! rose jointing every does help a great deal on the back end and when you have got good rose jointed proper suspension does eliminate alot of the bump steer everything i have mesioned above in previous posts

when you have got this kind of stuff on your car the bump steer IS NOT an issue to cause the car to handle any worse it's not even a talking point

thats what i am saying

bump steer however on a standard cossie with standard stuff on it bump steer is herendouse .. the back steers the front ......lol..pmsl


you can even speak to Harvy or anyone that raced grp a cossies they will tell you the same thing you get to a point where isn't an issue when you have got the stuff on the car it's simple as that

and if there is bump steer it's not enough to upset the handling or the way the cars drives at speed

I spoke to Ray who worked on the wrc/grp a programme i had the converstion with him ages ago and thats the info he gave me


like i said i am no expert on the subject


thats why i did say how far do you go on a road car


marco

Azrael

I have whole set of polybushes so no rubber It is surely MUCH better then standard, although it's not like rose-jointed of course - I have driven non-Ford GRp.A cars and I know what is the difference


Sure but can I go Warsaww to Cracow and then to the mountains and back again without replacing joints or them getting rusty or something? That is my problem.


Our roads? Hmm imagine worst bumpy road full of potholes you know - that wil be typical one over here

Well I can see only way is to try calling Mike when I have the money to spend

whitneyd

The new generation of rose joints are teflon linered which lets them last a lot longer because it's harder for water and trash to get inside of them. There is a compnay in the states called QA1 they have everything you need.

Mike1

I think you're spot on there Marco - although they don't look great these days, it's only big brakes and tyre availabillity that make bigger wheels a choice for road use surely..............unless the roads are very smooth, which they're not round here

bud-weis

Ok....thought i'd resurrect this thread as there are a lot of good opinions on it,and good advice!!!


Anyhoo.....I now have Adjustable TCA's,and will try Mike's recommended settings,i'm expecting big things this weekend

Since i first started this post i have noticed improvement after changing all 4 tyres,obviously the ones i had before weren't quite suited to my car.

I'm hoping the mix of 3 door hubs,and adjustable TCA's mixed with the Koni/Ahmed spring and damper combo will make the car feel very very good.It already has a very responsive,sharp feel to it now

The rear end however may have to wait a while,i'll see how it feels first and decide what i want to do

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Until you do the rear end, it will still understeer.

bud-weis

Yes,your probably right,but in all honesty i haven't pushed it hard enough on the road to feel it understeer at all

i'll give it some beans at the weekend and see how i like it

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

They already do, and I can get it if you want?

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

£2,600 for two way adjustable with remote gas reservoir . Once I have recovered from the engine cost, I'm thinking about these .

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Which version do you mean, and I could get some info for you ?