FletchCossie

iTrader: (4)

Ive recently brought a new cooker and need to install it as it has no plug on it!! Can someone please tell me if I can fit a plug and if so, what size fuse, etc?? It says its a 13amp supply on the website: http://www.cda-europe.com/docs/Produ...006_CD9000.htm

Here's the installation page from manual.



Cheers for any help

ECU Monitor Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)

You need to wire it to its own fused supply - Call an electrician !

FletchCossie

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, should of stated Im only using the electric oven part, not the gas Cheers SECS, so I can wire a plug up to this connector and plug it in to a standard socket?

ECU Monitor Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)

SORRY - I GOT IT WRONG - READ ABOVE

Didnt realise it had an electric oven that size

ian sibbert

I think ull find that'll draw a little more than 5 Amps the electric oven is 6.2 kW

ECU Monitor Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)

6 kw oven needs a 30 amp supply !!!!

You will NOT get than from a plug

ECU Monitor Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)

sibster,

As I just ammended

I just saw the gas burners and assumed it was all gas

FletchCossie

iTrader: (4)

SECS, is 30amp 3 phase electrics or single phase? (I have very limited knowledge on this lol) or can I just run off standard house power to its on socket?

Cheers

ECU Monitor Enthusiast

iTrader: (1)

Single phase home power but you will need a proper cooker rated
connection to run this appliance.

This is normally wired directly to the fuse box using a very thick cable
and on its own fuse.

Call a qualified electrician, you cant do it your self by law now

ian sibbert

U'll need a 32 single phase supply 240V + Neutral from the consumer unit of the house....6mm grey flat cable to a 32amp double pole switch (cooker switch) local to the appliance then a 6mm flex from the switch to the appliance....



Simon....I thought u'd know better pal....i'm sure your very ofay with ohms law....

Part P is becoming an admin nightmare for the IET so I dont think you'll have much grief from them

FletchCossie

iTrader: (4)

I was getting worried for a minute as I thought I was gonna have to convert to three phase lol

Any electricians local to Surrey fancy a private job?? Don't wanna spend Ł100's fitting this oven as its cost me too much to buy already

Thanks for the help. Atleast I know to not connect a plug to it and let the professionals do their work

Nick D

Please Please Please do not do this yourself! You need a seperate breaker installing within your consumer unit!

Ensure that the breaker installed is a type B SP&N 30/32A, as earth loop inpedance will be low.

6.2kW is equal to 27A.

Make sure you get an electrician mate.

The cooker connection unit typically 40A should be located at low level c/w a double pole isolating switch at hight level for maintenance etc.

RS200Babe

Where abouts in Surrey are you?

RS200Babe

Ignore last.....i see now its Sutton
DOH!

You had it done yet as my other half passes through Sutton each night and he`s an Electrician

rssteve

not being funny guys but it states in the instructions 1.5mm2 cable, that is not going to carry 6kw without getting really warm. Are you sure the oven aint 6kw in gas terms, they do use Kw. I expect the power is for the light and the ignitor.

it does state electric oven at the top tho

rssteve

lol at all the peps trying to get technical. MCBs are single pole and not double pole plus neutral. And who says you can't use a type c instead of a b. And how can you determine what the earth loop impedance will be, how do you no its low, it might be a tt system.

Eagle

iTrader: (2)

CD9000
90CM RANGE COOKER. GAS HOB, ELECTRIC OVEN

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION:
Energy Consumption:
Oven 6.2kW
Grill Element 4.65kW
Hob 12.2kW
Overall Power 18.4kWh
Power supply required 13 amps

very misleading someone has got it wrong somewhere ... fone em up and point it out ..

nice cooker tho

Lee Reynolds

The 1.5mm cable goes from the oven to a cooker connection point mounted on the wall at the rear of the cooker in a postion that doesnt foul the rear of the oven. The cooker connection point is then wired with 6mm twin and earth to a double pole isolator switch mounted on your wall above the worktop somewhere within easy reach of the cooker.
The double Pole isolator switch then has to have a feed from the consumer unit using 6mm twin and earth to a 32amp breaker in the unit....

Lee Reynolds

he wasnt talking about the MCB being a double pole, he was on about the double pole switch that you have on the wall near the cooker to isolate it...

ian sibbert

I think you'll find he is...you can get D/P breakers.... from this to the loacl switch then to the appliance....

Lee Reynolds

He ISNT

Thats why he says located at high level...as in above the worktop Which is what you have...a double pole switch(usually red for a cooker) mounted above worktop or at high level near the cooker....

ian sibbert

Lee,

Not one to argue..but

dunlop2008
"Ensure that the breaker installed is a type B SP&N 30/32A, as earth loop inpedance will be low.

6.2kW is equal to 27A."

He is saying install a type B single pole & neutral (as per the pic) 30/32 Amp breaker....i'd interept that as a 2 pole breaker switching live & neutral in the event of a fault....

I aint a domestic spark but thats how i read it.....personally id do a single pole 32A MCB in the consumer unit, 6mm cable to the cooker switch then as the instructions state HO5RRF flex to the appliance...

Cant believe all the grief about wiring a cooker up...

Lee Reynolds

will have to wait for his reply It does look like he is actually talking of both what we have mentioned...

I would do it your way too. Single pole 32 MCB, 6mm to double pole switch, 6mm to connection point, then flex to cooker...

Agree, lot of grief....fletchs fault

rssteve

domestic consumer units do not use double pole mcbs, they use single pole. The only units that use double pole are 110v systems with a centre tapped earth, and some weird systems on boats. The main switch in a consumer unit is double pole but this is not an mcb, its an isolator.

The instructions state the connection should be made in 1.5mm flex, heat resisting. This will not take anywhere near 20 odd amps so obviously the oven is either gas, or the instructions and specifications do not match up to the hob in the photo.

St3V3_C

Can someone explain to me how that 1.5mm flex is suitable for 32A?

rssteve

i think they have made a mistake and the oven appears to be a 3.5kw electric, so you will wan tto go for a 30a supply, just get a sparky in to advise if not and he will be able to tell straight away. Could always complain to the sellers.

rssteve

it aint, thats what i have said above, it appears the instructions are not correct for the model as i have looked else where and it states the oven it 3.5kw electric which seems about right. 6kw seems abit too much to be honest

St3V3_C

So it wants to be fused at 16A, not 30/32

Lee Reynolds

every ELECTRIC oven i have fitted in kitchens have had a rubber 1.5mm flex from the oven to the connection point. It is only then from the connection that it is 6mm.

FletchCossie

iTrader: (4)

Ok, everyone lost me from my last post

RS200Babe, can you ask him to give me a call on 07732 872 122 or PM me his number please?? Thanks

Eagle, cheers mate Im not gonna be cooking in it tho lol

Thanks for everyone's advice so far, so Im gonna look into an electrician. Hopefully will have it up and running soon Then I can start my Powder Coating

Btw, what can I complain to the manufacturers about?? As I don't understand the technical stuff above I am unsure what to say lol

Eagle

iTrader: (2)

i really fail to see how 1.5 can carry 27 amps, posible at a push 22 safely... but if they say thats what you need .. i am not going to argue with em ... but it might be worth questioning it with the supplier or even manufacturer .. just in case like ...

Lee Reynolds

Like i say, every electric oven i have fitted is 1.5mm rubber flex to cooker connection point. This has ranged from makers like Stoves, to cheapo B&Q ovens...im sure the all dont make the same mistake of supplying the wrong flex. Its only 1m long iirc from oven to connection point, then 6mm as said...

Alps Pacino

Lee Reynolds

Not 1 to argue or disagree but every oven have installed has had a piece of 6mm twin and earth hard wired into the cooker terminals, then the other nd connected to the local cooker switch which is located near the cooker. The cooker outlet is wired back to the board. There is no fuse or mcb in the cooker outlet so if the cooker flex was only 1.5mm it not going to be protected by the 32a mcb that is protecting the cooker circuit.

Think about it the cooker goes into fault the 1.5mm starts to smolder and sets on fire so you rush into the kitchen thinking the spuds are burning but its really its the ceiling

GARETH T

Lee Reynolds

why would it come with the oven then? 1.5mm rubber flex? Id expect cheapo ones to make mistakes, but not Stoves surely?

This has been probably 4 times

Lee Reynolds

It wasnt long ago either that i fitted a radial circuit for my Mum and Dad as they used to have Gas and it deffo was 1.5mm. So should i change this then or what? I always presume the manufacturer is correct...

Alps Pacino

Lee Reynolds

Radials should be 2.5mm protected by a 16a breaker, ring mains are 2.5mm also but protected by a 32a breaker, i'll expain y if you want??????????

GARETH T

what if they are running through insulation board?

Alps Pacino

GARETH T

Then The ambient temprature will be higher thus making the cabe size needing to be increased in a perfect world. Cable calcs are always bodged anyway so the general rule is hat i put above, think about it to do a perfect cable calc the engineer would be alking round site with his anal probe checking the temp everywhere on the cable run, and probably work out that a 150mm is needed for a toaster

GARETH T

im just teasing mate i knew you would know,, its just i dont like how some state old rules of thumbs