How do i this?

I have a Bleed valve attatched when i bought the car.. however i twisted it and the dropped like a stone even though i hardly turned it!

do turn twist the actuator as well?


(BTW I'm turning up to 20psi from 17psi on my stage 1 cossie)

 

I would suggest getting the fueling checked for det if you are gonna turn the boost up like that.

I assume this is on a cossie

 

yup, sierra 4wd..

My mate runs 20psi on similar setup and he's had it checked for knocking which was fine, i'll go get a check too


anyway any ideas? as the boost gauge is sitting offly low! wont drive it like this!

 

20psi on a stage 1 is that normal mines 20psi on stage 3

 

Bleed valves are always a bad idea, get it set up by a pro or your only going to be paying for a rebuilt engine!!

 

Just because your mates runs fine on the same set up dont mean yours will get it checked mate cheaper than a new set of pistons

 

don't run 20psi on a stg 1 , you will blow the engine to lots of little bits. Bleed valves are fine if used correctly, just means they are open to people to meddle with 15-16psi should be the absolute max you are running, and as people have said, if you want it faster, go and see a pro it will be MUCH cheaper in the long run Where abouts in the country are you?

 

I always thought 15psi was the most on a stage1?

 

got myself a problem! how do i reset it to 15psi..


I knew i shouldnt have touched it!

I'm running greens, pipercross filter, uprated actuator, chipped stg. 1, mongoose 3.5"..

 

Welcome to the world of bleed valves!!!

 

right, turn the bleed valve right down, so its fully shut, ie so NO air is gettin past it. Then go and find a nice empty stretch of road, and get the car to 4000RPM in 4th gear, put your left foot on the brakes, gently press them and floor the accelerator. You should now be getting full load with the car being held back- boost should be at its peak, and it wants to be 15psi max. If its lower than this, open the bleed valve slightly and repeat the test. If it goes over 15psi once you have opened the valve, back off immediatly and turn the bleed valve back down

 

Cheers, i dont need to touch the actuator then?

 

don't mess with the actuator unless its making more than 15psi with the bleed valve fully shut- if it is, then take some of the pre-load OFF. If you are running greens then you might be able to run more boost, check the part numbers on the side of them, are they dark or light green? light greens should end in 355, dark greens in 803. However, please don't play with more than 15psi until you get it set up ,as you have no way of knowing if the fuelling is correct, and £100 for a rolling road tune is far far cheaper than a new engine

 

Your boost is pretty low for a stage 3.

 

So am looking to iron out the actuator too, if it doesnt make 15psi or more i leave it, if it makes more say 15psi what do i do?

 

You shouldn't be running a stage 1 chip with green injectors anyway!! Are you sure you know what you've got?

 

mate from the sounds of things, the best thing you can do is take it to a specialist ,saves any messy blow ups and you know it will be %100

 

totally agree that dont make sense at all

 

Harrism, Assuming scaatland is scotland take it to AVA, they'll sort the car out no problem, if you need the phone number to book it in then let me know.

If you blow it up, i'll buy it off you for a score

 

As everyone else has said, greens and a stage 1 doesnt make a lot of sense.

Get it looked at by someone who knows what tehy are doing.

 

I have the light greens.

Think i will just take it to AVA and get it looked over and RR . .


Iron out everything

 

hi, i run 15psi on my stage 1, 20s not good mate

 

Thats the sensible thing to do

AVA - 0141 848 5257

 

Cheers