Very concerned............
21-07-2006, 08:41 AM
#1
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Very concerned............
With regards to my inlet cam 
When removed i was anal in making sure they both lined up correctly, but after getting the cam back from having the trigger fitted it seems not to sit level with the exhaust cam.
I double checked this by putting the pulleys back on & that confirm my suspicions.
Now the last thing i want to do is fit all the engine back in, one turn of the key & bang......... Good night Vienna!
Any expert add thier views please
When removed i was anal in making sure they both lined up correctly, but after getting the cam back from having the trigger fitted it seems not to sit level with the exhaust cam.
I double checked this by putting the pulleys back on & that confirm my suspicions.
Now the last thing i want to do is fit all the engine back in, one turn of the key & bang......... Good night Vienna!
Any expert add thier views please
21-07-2006, 08:51 AM
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St3V3_C
The arrows & woodruff keys! The arrows on the pulleys should face while the WR keys face out.............. They were both leval when removed but not now.
Doug Stirling
The caps have only been tightened down to hold the cam in place so that i could rotate the engine on the stand (to remove the sump).
I still need to torque them down.........
The arrows & woodruff keys! The arrows on the pulleys should face while the WR keys face out.............. They were both leval when removed but not now.
Doug Stirling
The caps have only been tightened down to hold the cam in place so that i could rotate the engine on the stand (to remove the sump).
I still need to torque them down.........
21-07-2006, 08:58 AM
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Belts off mate, click below the siggy for the low down! 
I cant help it........... I should have really should have started to worry when Gadget handed me a package with COSSIE PARANOIA when i bought the car!
I cant help it........... I should have really should have started to worry when Gadget handed me a package with COSSIE PARANOIA when i bought the car!
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21-07-2006, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Franco
St3V3_C
The caps have only been tightened down to hold the cam in place so that i could rotate the engine on the stand (to remove the sump).
I still need to torque them down.........
The caps have only been tightened down to hold the cam in place so that i could rotate the engine on the stand (to remove the sump).
I still need to torque them down.........
21-07-2006, 09:14 AM
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You may think that the correct torque for the cam caps (shown below) is wrong - because it's a "light" setting that seems like it's just a bit more than "nipping up".....I think that is why peeps over-tighten the cap bolts and strip the thread.
Make sure that the bolts are nice and clean first and use the correct thread lock product on them.
Make sure that the bolts are nice and clean first and use the correct thread lock product on them.
21-07-2006, 09:21 AM
#13
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Shit why's there 4 settings for the caps!! 
And would most people use the higher setting shown.
Ps i dont care how stupid i look (thank god Daves banned!! ) as i'd rather get it right! 
And would most people use the higher setting shown.
Ps i dont care how stupid i look (thank god Daves banned!!
) as i'd rather get it right!
21-07-2006, 09:22 AM
#14
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With the belt off?
You know you can turn the cam by itself, without the rest of the engine turning right?
NOT TOO FAR THOUGH - the valves will contact the pistons if you are too far away from where they should be in relation to the rest of the engine.
You know you can turn the cam by itself, without the rest of the engine turning right?
NOT TOO FAR THOUGH - the valves will contact the pistons if you are too far away from where they should be in relation to the rest of the engine.
21-07-2006, 09:25 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by Franco
Shit why's there 4 settings for the caps!!
You want the two settings, for your different sized nuts, that DON'T have the word stud in there.
Those are for when you fit new studs to the head.
re pisstaking - I'll PM Dave a link so he can catch up
21-07-2006, 09:30 AM
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I'm sure you will do this anyway, but if you are concerned mate, after its all torqued up and timed, just take the spark plugs out and turn the engine over by hand a few times. Listen for any metallic noises and check there is no resistance other than the valve springs should make sure that the valves are not hitting the pistons 
should make sure that the valves are not hitting the pistons
21-07-2006, 09:34 AM
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St3V3_C
'Ahh'
Said the blind man to the deaf dog!
Would you use the higher setting of the 2 indicated though?
RWD_cossie_wil
Will do fella!
Ps does the type of loctite really make that much of a difference?!!?
'Ahh'
Said the blind man to the deaf dog!
Would you use the higher setting of the 2 indicated though?
RWD_cossie_wil
Will do fella!
Ps does the type of loctite really make that much of a difference?!!?
21-07-2006, 09:38 AM
#18
As Steve says, with the cambelt off you can turn them to wherever you want.
With the cambelt on if they dont *EXACTLY* line up it doesnt really matter in the grand scheme of things, just do it so that they are not more than half a tooth out obviously (which is ALWAYS possible)
If you really want the timing exactly on the marks, get some verniers and you can dial out an slight difference.
With the cambelt on if they dont *EXACTLY* line up it doesnt really matter in the grand scheme of things, just do it so that they are not more than half a tooth out obviously (which is ALWAYS possible)
If you really want the timing exactly on the marks, get some verniers and you can dial out an slight difference.
21-07-2006, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by chip-3door
As Steve says, with the cambelt off you can turn them to wherever you want.
With the cambelt on if they dont *EXACTLY* line up it doesnt really matter in the grand scheme of things, just do it so that they are not more than half a tooth out obviously (which is ALWAYS possible)
If you really want the timing exactly on the marks, get some verniers and you can dial out an slight difference.
With the cambelt on if they dont *EXACTLY* line up it doesnt really matter in the grand scheme of things, just do it so that they are not more than half a tooth out obviously (which is ALWAYS possible)
If you really want the timing exactly on the marks, get some verniers and you can dial out an slight difference.
21-07-2006, 09:43 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Franco
Originally Posted by chip-3door
As Steve says, with the cambelt off you can turn them to wherever you want.
With the cambelt on if they dont *EXACTLY* line up it doesnt really matter in the grand scheme of things, just do it so that they are not more than half a tooth out obviously (which is ALWAYS possible)
If you really want the timing exactly on the marks, get some verniers and you can dial out an slight difference.
With the cambelt on if they dont *EXACTLY* line up it doesnt really matter in the grand scheme of things, just do it so that they are not more than half a tooth out obviously (which is ALWAYS possible)
If you really want the timing exactly on the marks, get some verniers and you can dial out an slight difference.
You wont damage then just by turning them over with a spanner (well unless you hang off of it with all your weight)
21-07-2006, 09:44 AM
#21
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Originally Posted by Franco
St3V3_C
Would you use the higher setting of the 2 indicated though?
Would you use the higher setting of the 2 indicated though?
Most of the caps are 19-23 they have M8 bolts
The cap at the front, with the smaller M6 bolts, are 8-10
edit - or do you mean which of the 19-23 numbers? If so, use somewhere in the middle.
21-07-2006, 09:45 AM
#23
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Don't forget to use threadlock on the nuts that hold the caps on aswell - only a small blob of that and you can be sure they won't come loose (like one I saw when I was doing a headgasket on one, camcap nuts finger tight on a couple of the caps )
)
21-07-2006, 09:47 AM
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[quote="St3V3_C"]
YES!!!
Jeeeess i aint that tick!
Absolute Lord -
Originally Posted by Franco
St3V3_C
edit - or do you mean which of the 19-23 numbers? If so, use somewhere in the middle.
edit - or do you mean which of the 19-23 numbers? If so, use somewhere in the middle.
Jeeeess i aint that tick!
Absolute Lord -
21-07-2006, 09:48 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by slowpoke
Originally Posted by Absolute Lord
absolute LORD !
*Looks up in the sky, whistling aimlessly*
21-07-2006, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by chip-3door
You wont damage then just by turning them over with a spanner (well unless you hang off of it with all your weight)
21-07-2006, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Graceland
Don't forget to use threadlock on the nuts that hold the caps on aswell - only a small blob of that and you can be sure they won't come loose (like one I saw when I was doing a headgasket on one, camcap nuts finger tight on a couple of the caps )
)
21-07-2006, 09:50 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by Doug Stirling
Originally Posted by chip-3door
You wont damage then just by turning them over with a spanner (well unless you hang off of it with all your weight)
21-07-2006, 10:32 AM
#36
Originally Posted by Doug Stirling
Originally Posted by chip-3door
You wont damage then just by turning them over with a spanner (well unless you hang off of it with all your weight)
The bolts on cossie cams though DO seem to have a problem with coming undone, i had one work loose on me that i KNOW (and had witnesses to, lol) i had properly torqued up, luckily i spotted it before it came right out and caused a problem but it was a VERY lucky escape IMHO.
What i do now is i always fit the cambelt first and mess around moving the cam back and forward etc and THEN remove the bolts, and fit new bolts with loctite on it and torque up and then leave it alone cause ive already finished fitting the belt and dont need to move it anymore.
Paranoid? maybe! but i havent had a problem again since swapping to doing it that way.
I
21-07-2006, 10:33 PM
#37
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Ok quick one............
As the nuts are all the same size, & the front caps are fixed in by bolts...
Which are the M6 & which are the M8's as discribed in the picture doug put up then..........
As the nuts are all the same size, & the front caps are fixed in by bolts...
Which are the M6 & which are the M8's as discribed in the picture doug put up then..........
21-07-2006, 10:50 PM
#38
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Franco
In my experience of Cossie's, the front caps (that i have seen) have been held in with M6 nuts on studs whereas all the rest are M8 nuts on studs!
Presumably these bolts you have are thinner (ie M6 size) than the studs for the rest of the cam caps (which are M8 size).
If so, it should be self explanatory from here.......
In my experience of Cossie's, the front caps (that i have seen) have been held in with M6 nuts on studs whereas all the rest are M8 nuts on studs!
Presumably these bolts you have are thinner (ie M6 size) than the studs for the rest of the cam caps (which are M8 size).
If so, it should be self explanatory from here.......
21-07-2006, 10:58 PM
#40
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well the front 2 caps on mine are held on with 2 allen keys bolts & not the nut / stud set up like te rest.........
So this is where t cofusion came from lads
So this is where t cofusion came from lads