how hard to change a rear diff on a 2wd saf cos??
#1
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how hard to change a rear diff on a 2wd saf cos??
this might sound a really silly thing to say but, it feels like there is more power going to the passenger wheel than the drivers side??
hard to explain but it feels like the car, under moderate accelaration, is crabbin (if thats the right word to use!!) but i only notice when you take ya foot of the throttle it kind of pulls the front to the right?!?!?! but it really feels like its cos of the power??
that aint too good a description im sorry but its really hard to explain??
the diff has been whining for a while not too bad, must admit it sound quite cool!!
so how much and how hard for a bit of a novice to fit??
is it just socket set and axle stands?? or more difficult.
thanks peeps!!
hard to explain but it feels like the car, under moderate accelaration, is crabbin (if thats the right word to use!!) but i only notice when you take ya foot of the throttle it kind of pulls the front to the right?!?!?! but it really feels like its cos of the power??
that aint too good a description im sorry but its really hard to explain??
the diff has been whining for a while not too bad, must admit it sound quite cool!!
so how much and how hard for a bit of a novice to fit??
is it just socket set and axle stands?? or more difficult.
thanks peeps!!
#2
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depending if the torx bolts round or not
ive always found them a pain to be honest and always dropped the complete beam only to get to the top bolt lol
if you could use a set of ramps it would make it easier
other than that
its just driveshafts undone, 5 bolts if i remember correctly and the diff mount
doesnt sound a lot but when your lying on your back as ive said its a pain
ive always found them a pain to be honest and always dropped the complete beam only to get to the top bolt lol
if you could use a set of ramps it would make it easier
other than that
its just driveshafts undone, 5 bolts if i remember correctly and the diff mount
doesnt sound a lot but when your lying on your back as ive said its a pain
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do you think thats whats making the car feel weird when i take my foot off the gas?? ie pulling the front to the right???
if so how much would the kit cost??
cheers
if so how much would the kit cost??
cheers
#7
Testing the future
diff change can be a bitch of a job or can be easy.
i've done it a couple of times recently so can offer some advice
the long bolt through the bottom will probably be seized in. try and get that one out first of all (after removing prop shaft if you like)
to undo the bolts in the propshaft (15mm head) you can shove a bar through the UJ to stop it turning. undo one of the prop shaft centre bolts completely, and the other one a bit and then the propshaft can be dropped out of the way.
you need a t50 torx bit for the driveshaft bolts. they will probably be full of old grease, so clean that out of the heads before attempting to undo them so that the torx bit fits well and you don't round them off.
the beam needs supporting with axle stands, it's no good jsut having the car up on axle stands, as the beam will want to drop when you take the diff out.
support the diff with a trolley jack after you've got the long bolt out, and then you can remove the rubber mount of the back of the diff before taking out the 4 short bolts that hold the diff to the beam.
before putting the diff back on, run a tap down all 4 threads and take a round file to the holes in the aluminium where the long bolt goes through to make it easy to slide through.
hope that helps
i've done it a couple of times recently so can offer some advice
the long bolt through the bottom will probably be seized in. try and get that one out first of all (after removing prop shaft if you like)
to undo the bolts in the propshaft (15mm head) you can shove a bar through the UJ to stop it turning. undo one of the prop shaft centre bolts completely, and the other one a bit and then the propshaft can be dropped out of the way.
you need a t50 torx bit for the driveshaft bolts. they will probably be full of old grease, so clean that out of the heads before attempting to undo them so that the torx bit fits well and you don't round them off.
the beam needs supporting with axle stands, it's no good jsut having the car up on axle stands, as the beam will want to drop when you take the diff out.
support the diff with a trolley jack after you've got the long bolt out, and then you can remove the rubber mount of the back of the diff before taking out the 4 short bolts that hold the diff to the beam.
before putting the diff back on, run a tap down all 4 threads and take a round file to the holes in the aluminium where the long bolt goes through to make it easy to slide through.
hope that helps
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#8
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you deffo help son, helped me decide to pay someone else to do it
anyone in the scots borders wanna help me change this diff???
sound like i may need some help if i try!!!!
anyone in the scots borders wanna help me change this diff???
sound like i may need some help if i try!!!!
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I drove one last week that did exactly what you describe...
Tyre pressure was low on the nearside rear. Pumped the tyre up, problem solved
Tyre pressure was low on the nearside rear. Pumped the tyre up, problem solved
#12
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Originally Posted by gearboxman
I drove one last week that did exactly what you describe...
Tyre pressure was low on the nearside rear. Pumped the tyre up, problem solved
Tyre pressure was low on the nearside rear. Pumped the tyre up, problem solved
top banana
first thing when i leave work check tyre pressure....................
will that stop the rear diff whining as well
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i saw she fixed!!!
the diff aint whining too bad, but by whats above i think ill be paying somone to do it for me
unless you would lend your expertise and help me change it
the diff aint whining too bad, but by whats above i think ill be paying somone to do it for me
unless you would lend your expertise and help me change it
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