Anybody know about domestic Alarm systems? Wired & Wirel
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Anybody know about domestic Alarm systems? Wired & Wirel
I had a wireless alarm system on my home about 5 years ago and no end of problems, believed to have been caused by intereference from the large airforce base i live next to.
I had to remove it in the end and the company gave me my money back.
But i'd let to get another alarm in the future but they are nearly all wirefree now as opposed to wired.
Wired would suit me better i think, unless the technology is good enough since the last one i had to make wireless an option.
Anybody got any experience or comments???
I had to remove it in the end and the company gave me my money back.
But i'd let to get another alarm in the future but they are nearly all wirefree now as opposed to wired.
Wired would suit me better i think, unless the technology is good enough since the last one i had to make wireless an option.
Anybody got any experience or comments???
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Just fitted a Yale wireless alarm, great so far, fitted it on advise from a friend who has had one for over 3 years and only had to change the batteries once, and had no problems with false alarms. So that sold it to me. But don't know much about interferance although we do have a lot of phone masts by us, no problems so far.
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Hmmm
It was a Yale one i had.
Their technical people said it must been interference from the base.........
shame as the wireless ones are so easy to install....
It was a Yale one i had.
Their technical people said it must been interference from the base.........
shame as the wireless ones are so easy to install....
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i had a adt alarm fitted years ago,ive never had a problem with it they come and service it twice a year at no charge,no flase alarms its only gone off when it was supposed to
yes it cost £1 per day but it is linked to a call centre
yes it cost £1 per day but it is linked to a call centre
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Originally Posted by Gary @ APT
i had a adt alarm fitted years ago,ive never had a problem with it they come and service it twice a year at no charge,no flase alarms its only gone off when it was supposed to
yes it cost £1 per day but it is linked to a call centre
yes it cost £1 per day but it is linked to a call centre
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i just knew you'd have to let the cat out the bag!!
yes if you leave you car running near the back door it will set fire sensor off,so as i was on my way to work i passed the fire brigde going other way
yes if you leave you car running near the back door it will set fire sensor off,so as i was on my way to work i passed the fire brigde going other way
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Originally Posted by Gary @ APT
i was on my way to work i passed the fire brigde going other way
Thanks for the info though Gary, much appreciated
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Originally Posted by St3V3_C
What do you want to know mate?
I understand the control panel and remote panels, plus battery backup.
I see there are quite a number of different types of PIR now too, plus i'd like the bellbox to have (like ive seen) a strobe on activation, but a 2 led flash when all the time otherwise.
Ive seen the led bellboxes at night and they are good for drawing your attention to the fact the house is alarmed.
I suspect that even if a bellbox doesn't have this feature, it would not be difficult to make up. Im sure a search on google might throw up a small circuit to use......
so in summary, any adivce or info regarding door contacts (house and garage) and PIR's, plus bellboxes and sounders greatfully received
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PIR's - Always use dual tech to reduce false alarms. More expensive (16.50 instead of a tenner), but if it's just your house rather than trying to make a business out of it...
Bell box:
Door contacts, flush for wooden doors, as long as you can get the cable out of the one in the frame. Stating the bleedin obvious, don't put them in the hinge side...
Surface might be the only way to go on a PVC door, as you may not be able to sink them in.
The roller shutter one will work on a up and over door, but unless you want it as an entry route, I would just cover witha PIR.
You only really need door contacts on entry routes (entry route=start beeping at you giving 30 secs to disarm). Cover the area with a PIR anyway - say someone breaks the glass, or panel, in a door, but leaves the main bit of the door in the frame, a door contact will not trigger.
Originally Posted by About Dual Tech, TLC
The best of both worlds, combining a modern microwave detector
and the most advanced PIR detector.
Eliminates false alarms because it needs both movement & heat to trigger an alarm.
Microwave detects air changes caused by moving objects,
PIR detects heat sources against background heat.
and the most advanced PIR detector.
Eliminates false alarms because it needs both movement & heat to trigger an alarm.
Microwave detects air changes caused by moving objects,
PIR detects heat sources against background heat.
Originally Posted by About the RESON8, TLC
Twin LED Status Indication
Two internal LEDs, one to identify that power is being supplied, and one to indicate tamper status. LED’s can also be set to alternate for eye-catching status confirmation.
Two internal LEDs, one to identify that power is being supplied, and one to indicate tamper status. LED’s can also be set to alternate for eye-catching status confirmation.
Surface might be the only way to go on a PVC door, as you may not be able to sink them in.
The roller shutter one will work on a up and over door, but unless you want it as an entry route, I would just cover witha PIR.
You only really need door contacts on entry routes (entry route=start beeping at you giving 30 secs to disarm). Cover the area with a PIR anyway - say someone breaks the glass, or panel, in a door, but leaves the main bit of the door in the frame, a door contact will not trigger.
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