Jim Galbally

OK, when i had my box rebuild by bernie and had a new clutch fitted, he pointed out that i was getting clutch drag, whcih was causing it to be quite tricky to get into gear (i'd always had it, i just thought it was a fucked box!)

its also a BIT (not much mind) worse than it was before on my old clutch (old clutch = f**cked standard one, new clutch =helix organic upgrated cossie one)

i've also change the clutch cable the other day, and whilst this gives me a nicer pedal, its still causing a bit of drag.

now, is there anything i can do to improve the situation that DOESNT involve going for a hydraulic clutch conversion? (or changing the quadrant as thatsa BITCH )

its just one of the things that really lets my car down, as it makes it awkward to drive, especiaLLY WHEN MAKING SWIFT PROGRESS FROM 1ST TO 2ND, MY GEARCHANGE TAKES ABOUT 2 SECONDS (OOPS, CAPS :CRY: )

Azrael

Jim Galbally for now you can just give up using clutch - you won't be damaging gearbox so much at least.

Hope somebody will know how this is fixed. I get that ometimes too. But only sometimes.

heeman10

I've got a Zetec Turbo Fiesta with an AP 4 paddle clutch. From the beginning I had a very low biting point, and slow gearchanges, thought it didn't grind when putting it into gear. The ratchet finally gave up about three weeks ago, and tomororw I'll be finishing off the manual adjust conversion. I've had the old pedal and quadrant off, new pedal, quadrant and cable are now in, I just need to hook the cable onto the quadrant and the job'll be done. It's not SO bad, and should be very worthwhile.

It noticeably slowed me 0-60 times, as my gearshifts are all much slower than they should be on a brand new CTS 'box! Bite the bullet, do the pedal conversion

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi Jim

AP do an add on kit for your clutch pedal it give is a bit more leverage it's like an extra bit of ratchet , it will stop a lot of drag + you will be able to select gears easy

marco

Jim Galbally

marco, any ideas what its called? if i remmebr i'll ring AP tomorrow

also, do you have to replace the quadrant? as ive heard thats a BITCH of a job

also are there different types of quadrant? im thinkign does it matter than my car's originally a 2WD?

also when you lift my clutch pedal UP it doesnt spring back or anything, i thought it should if the self adjuster was ok?

Azrael

Jim Galbally quadrant job is couple of hours if you don't know how to do it and learn everything by jourself, my mechanic currently has so much skill with it he can do it on road section of the rally without significant time loss and many tools

dojj

iTrader: (3)

4 bolts to remove the pedal box
do it out in the open
refit
about 5 hours if you don't know what you are doing
a few days if you let the springs spring out and lose bits

let me get you a picture
or 7

Jim Galbally

as if i'd DIY

laim, where are you?

dojj

iTrader: (3)

i'll post them up just so's that everyone else can see what you are not going to be doing

just out of curiosity, i think i might be able to solve the problem IF you can confirm that the quadrant in your car is red

Jim Galbally

i'll check what colour it is.

what you thinking anyway?

JohnnyB

its a cooont, my hands were fooked it too me about 3 hours.


mine was yellow

dojj

iTrader: (3)

and i can almost garantee that jims will be red

dojj

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various angles for you to see what you are up against
there IS enough space to do it in the car, but it's twice as long and then you might have trouble trying to get the buggery thing back in again if you've got a burr on the shaft

dojj

iTrader: (3)

also, notice the 1st and 7th pictures showing the depth of the cable run
on the yellow ones the arc is much further out, and you also get a black one where the arc is virtually the whole depth of the quadrant (ie nothing at all other than a shallow channel in the surface)

Jim Galbally

i have a RED one

and its not self adjusted at all (ie its got max pull)

are you saying the yellow one will give me more swing? do i need to swap my red one for a yellow one?

ozcos

There are also two release arms .... One from the 2.0lt 4x4 which doesn't have as much leaverage but looks exactly the same untill you put them side by side. 2.0lt 4x4 has much thicker flywheel so needs less leaverage.
Took me ages to figure that one out

Paul Eggleton

I did the quadrant on my old rst whilst it was in the car, never again

If you like laying upside down in your footwell all day then go for it

Taking the pedal box out is the only sensible way.

mick

iTrader: (1)

jim, the pedal box is my old one, i changed from a red to a yellow quadrant and it made a fair bit of differance...if you lower the steering column it pops out without a problem, the time consuming part is reassembling the dash....

JohnnyB

The way I did it was take the bottom of the dash out, undone the 4 bolts and the 2 small ones at the top, so you can remove the outside bracket on the clutch side. Then the clutch box will just roll round the steering cloum.

Jim Galbally

ok, so i need to replace my red one with a yellow one... joy

i hope ford sell em.


also rung AP and the bit that marco's describing they only ever need on the escort turbo. so it must be my shitty red quadrant causing the problems.

it wasa nightmare earlier today, had to almost force it into gear

BillyCabrio

iTrader: (1)

Jim,

You know what i'm going to say...........................

dojj

iTrader: (3)

that'll be the clutch not playing nicely
micks one threw a spring out and then no drive whatsoever
had to scrap flywheel as well as the clutch

Jim Galbally

its a brand spanking new 300quid clutch in a freshly rebuilt gearbox

dojj

iTrader: (3)

not being sarcastic or nothing jim, but you could have a Ł20k engine freshly rebuilt mate and rev the nuts off of it and kill it on the way home
the builder is still going to say it's not his fault ain't he

change the quadrant sooner rather than later, because you wil only have to replace the clutch if you don't

and no, no manner of wedges or whatevers will be able to help solve the problem in the meantime as there isn't enough leverage on the clutch fork itself from the pedal
you've only got x amount of movement from the pedal unles you put the different quadrant in

if it's that much of an issue and you've got no one else to do it, bring it round ine and i'll point you throught the who proccess, i'd do it myself but my back isn't what it used to be

it's a 10 minute job to change the quadrant, it's just everything else to get it done thats the pain in the arse

Jim Galbally

ok, i'll need to get hold of a quadrant and ill get the car booked in to get it swapped

i assume its easier to swap the whole assembly?

BillyCabrio

iTrader: (1)

B.A.R

dojj

iTrader: (3)

there are 2 plastic bushes you might as well change at the same time, you can just about see them in the pics

the total is going to be less than a fiver for the bits

JohnnyB

A new yellow one from ford is 8 notes dojj

dojj

iTrader: (3)

the whole kit is 99p in halfords

but it's not a lot of money jim, and much cheaper than getting the clutch done again the offer still stands if you want to pop round and have a go tomorrow (or even tonight as the garage might be empty enough)

Micky The Finn

if your clutch is "dragging" the chances are its the bearing in the end of the crank thats at fualt especcially if you have just changed the box,did you change the bearing?

Jim Galbally

ok, i've got me a nice new quadrant kit with the yellow bit, the tooth bit and the bushes. booked in to have that slkapped in on wednesday

however in the mantime, ITS GETTING WORSE

start the car from cold in the morning and the gearchange is fine.

once its warm it gets harder.

after youve been driving for 30minutes, it does NOT want to engage gear. i had to use 2 hands to get it into 2nd to pull away! (its ok when moving tho, bit notchy, but it goes in) also i can smell the clutch slipping in a trafic jam (and ive got a headache now )

so, any thoughts on why it's be any different once its warm?

dojj

iTrader: (3)

new box
new clutch
fitted by people who know what they are doing

am i right so far?

aftr this, new cable because it's stretched?

Micky The Finn

jim read my post!!!!
as the bearing heats up it will get worse,when you engage the clutch the gearbox shaft should spine freely on the spigot bearing in the crank,if its damaged it will nip the gear shaft so that it still spins,make gearchanges almost impossible.
ive seen it on cosworths loads of times and on other cars hundreds of times.

JohnnyB

It happined to a twin turbo one I know almost fuesed the shaft to the crank

Jim Galbally

ok, i'll see if i can get it up to bernie ASAP. god i hope this aint a busy time of year for him

dojj

iTrader: (3)

funnily enough, my twinkly has been parked up with the same problem
old man burnt the clutch out, and after that, the spigot bearing and input shaft don't spin seperatly anymore

SteveB

iTrader: (3)

1st time I did a quadrant on my Saff it took me less than 1 hour as you can get the clutch and brake pedal out of the car complete and change the quadrant on the "bench"

Jim Galbally

dojj, i'm gonna not drive it now. i think thats best.

just need to find somewhere to take a look ASAP.

i'd rather take it to CTS tho

dojj

iTrader: (3)

it's a quick trip round the 25 for you ain't it?

just make sure that you leave it in 5th a pootle round

Jim Galbally

half way round the 25 then up the M1 for a few junctions