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Engine Coolant Temp sensor - failure symptoms?

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Old 20-02-2006, 02:22 PM
  #41  
RichardPON
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What filter has it got then fella?
Old 20-02-2006, 02:23 PM
  #42  
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Default Re: Engine Coolant Temp sensor - failure symptoms?

Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by Lambchop
haha i did explain it actually
its a guy i know well and not some random i spoke to at ford

when i said falls to zero im not actually sure its ever gone that far. when you can see the gauge slowly lose pressure you can back off throttle and it picks up to "normal" again. not like it falls instantly to complete zero. falls gradually.
I stand by my opinion, anyone who knows the system well will know the CTS cannot have any bearing whatsoever on fuel pressure.

When you say its never gone "That" far.... how far has it gone?

Std is 3.5bar, idle is nearer 3, anything with boost is 3.5bar+ the boost.
at idle the car is about 38psi or so. before fault occurs when car is hot the pressure could be 50/60psi on boost. when it drops it maybe falls to 20 maybe 15psi. when i see it fall i back off the throttle. it doesnt actually lose all pressure. sorry i worded it badly.
Old 20-02-2006, 02:24 PM
  #43  
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We had a real bastard once, kept killing pumps and other associated fuel items... after 3 pumps we finally took the fuel tank off and found it had been powder coated (Whole car was gleaming and well prepared) and the coating process had left some sand in teh tank that was slowly but surely destroying all in its path!!
Old 20-02-2006, 02:26 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by RichardPON
What filter has it got then fella?
are you maybe suggesting that it is standard?

i dont know what it is. I called my mate Robin(Rocky Robin above) earlier and asked him if it looked like a standard one and he said it was different so i dont know.
Old 20-02-2006, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rsnissan
long shot but could it be something in the tank thats causing the problem at the feed to the pump?

As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
cant be certain but perhaps not. when driven from cold the car will respond perfectly and boost hard and well! not that i rag it immediately obviously! just before its totally hot.
Old 20-02-2006, 02:30 PM
  #46  
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does it got

TANK>>>>PUMP>>>FILTER????


as my mate had this way and as stu pointed out bits were killing pumps, so we installed another filter before pump, hay presto, job done
Old 20-02-2006, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Lambchop
Originally Posted by rsnissan
long shot but could it be something in the tank thats causing the problem at the feed to the pump?

As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
cant be certain but perhaps not. when driven from cold the car will respond perfectly and boost hard and well! not that i rag it immediately obviously! just before its totally hot.
Hmmmmmm equally as long a shot could the pipe to the pump be rigid enough when cold to stop it self from being sucked inwards if there was a blockage but as soon as it gets a bit warmer softens up? long shot i know but if you have tried the obvious already.

I am just going by the noise of the pump you describe that coincides with the problem really. Not had/seen this happen before but just chucking ideas about really
Old 20-02-2006, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rsnissan
Originally Posted by Lambchop
Originally Posted by rsnissan
long shot but could it be something in the tank thats causing the problem at the feed to the pump?

As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
cant be certain but perhaps not. when driven from cold the car will respond perfectly and boost hard and well! not that i rag it immediately obviously! just before its totally hot.
Hmmmmmm equally as long a shot could the pipe to the pump be rigid enough when cold to stop it self from being sucked inwards if there was a blockage but as soon as it gets a bit warmer softens up? long shot i know but if you have tried the obvious already.

I am just going by the noise of the pump you describe that coincides with the problem really. Not had/seen this happen before but just chucking ideas about really
the pipe to the pump is pretty solid. it isnt a rubber hose. looks like a garden hose lol
Old 20-02-2006, 02:38 PM
  #49  
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here is the filter on the car...

Old 20-02-2006, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Lambchop
the pipe to the pump is pretty solid.
Externally at least
Old 20-02-2006, 02:39 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Spiky
does it got

TANK>>>>PUMP>>>FILTER????


as my mate had this way and as stu pointed out bits were killing pumps, so we installed another filter before pump, hay presto, job done

looks like its straight from tank to pump...
Old 20-02-2006, 02:41 PM
  #52  
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Aeromotive fuel filter it would appear..........? Or is it a Sytec one?
Old 20-02-2006, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by Lambchop
the pipe to the pump is pretty solid.
Externally at least
heres the setup with the hose shown. 1st bit is braided and solid. the next part is a metal fork to split to 2 pumps but pump to front of car is only used pump and gpA. next part looks like garden hose and i squeezed it just now and its solid!

Old 20-02-2006, 02:51 PM
  #54  
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that looks like standard pipe to me
Old 20-02-2006, 02:57 PM
  #55  
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its not the standard pipe..........that has clearly been cut down to feed the Y piece.

Mate looks like your going to have to do this systematically

I would 1st check the voltage to the pump get someone to sit in the car with a multimeter connected to the pump and then see what it reads when the problem occurs.

Then simplify the setup i.e remove the y piece and just to to the 1 pump and out of the one pump to the fuel pipe.

and go from there possibly with the aim to dropping the fuel lines, tank etc so you can eliminate that line of enquiry at least.
Old 20-02-2006, 03:26 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by rsnissan
its not the standard pipe..........that has clearly been cut down to feed the Y piece.

Mate looks like your going to have to do this systematically

I would 1st check the voltage to the pump get someone to sit in the car with a multimeter connected to the pump and then see what it reads when the problem occurs.

Then simplify the setup i.e remove the y piece and just to to the 1 pump and out of the one pump to the fuel pipe.

and go from there possibly with the aim to dropping the fuel lines, tank etc so you can eliminate that line of enquiry at least.
yup mate think you're right. no point having the second pump there because i wont be using it. its standard anyway!
no sure how to connect multimeter to the pump when we're moving...
Old 20-02-2006, 03:31 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Lambchop
no sure how to connect multimeter to the pump when we're moving...
just run two wires one from the live terminal of the pump and one from the neg run the wires up to the cabin securely (back into boot floor if you can if not then into a window perhaps)

wack the MM to voltage and get someone to see whan happens as you drive
Old 20-02-2006, 03:34 PM
  #58  
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aaaaah that sounds ok ta
Old 20-02-2006, 03:36 PM
  #59  
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What a fookin mess!!
Old 20-02-2006, 03:40 PM
  #60  
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I would tend to agree with Stu there.

Might be worth dropping the setup down, and re-plumbing the aeroquip etc..... just to be on the safe side.

It will cost a fair amount, but when it's under the car looking like my old setup, and it's all secure and checked, then you'll have peace of mind.
Old 20-02-2006, 03:42 PM
  #61  
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One pipe from tank to std pump for up to 360bhp.

One pipe from tank to 044 pump for more.

Simple, cheap and reliable.
Old 20-02-2006, 03:47 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
What a fookin mess!!


should the filter be before the pump then? i think its time to start removing the shite i dont need and sorting this fucker out.

i shall remove the second standard pump altogether and have one hose from the tank to the new gpA pump.

you should see the connections in the boot!
there is some inline fuse thats attached behind the trim on n/s of boot. trim has been cut to fit round it. dont even know why it is there!

i dont mind paying to get things done. i just wish i was close to someone like yourself who i could trust to do the job properly and know what they were doing!

chop
Old 20-02-2006, 03:53 PM
  #63  
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Chop - get rid of the second pump - it's unnecessary, and in the way.

Then run a piece of hose from the tank to pump with a proper fitting. Then it looks like you already have a decent quip connection from pump to filter.

Ideally, you want it looking like this(but obviously modified for your setup):



Not cheap, but done once, and done right.

Check that wiring too!
Old 20-02-2006, 03:55 PM
  #64  
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just do the fooking thing from scratch.........

............find the triger for the fuel pump go to a relay with that using decent wire to the Pump from the battery and a decent earth.

one 044 pump connected to one hose from the tank, then new standard filter or at least check yours out if uses replacement gauses.

then new aeroquiped lines to the engine bay from the filter.


its VERY easy to do yourself and not that expensive at all.

edit doh! Rich has just said the same thing lol
Old 20-02-2006, 03:56 PM
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cheers for that rich

not sure why anyone would want 2 standard pumps on the car anyways

what kind of filter is that that you have? would a standard one be sufficient for me? i dont want any fancy shit. just something that will cope properly.

so is yours tank to filter then pump?
Old 20-02-2006, 03:58 PM
  #66  
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its tank -> pump-> filter as standard

my setup is similar to what you want to do really there is a post in the resto section
Old 20-02-2006, 04:00 PM
  #67  
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i shall go look ta.
Old 20-02-2006, 04:01 PM
  #68  
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I too appreciate the comments above. Any advice is better than none! Thanks lads (+ lassie!)

I believe the filter fitted is a high flow billet filter - anodised in colour (blue and red). They are not standard.

From obvious test runs, it only happens when the car is up to normal temperature. A temp sensor could easily have this issue. For the sake of a few pennies, changing it will not harm the car.

Looking at one of the cossie manuals I have here, I see that the ECT signal affects the injector open time and idle speed. Having said that, the car has stalled at times during the mis-firing stages.

Am I right in saying that the one-way valve on the pump does the same job as the fuel accumulator on Mk3 Escorts? ie keeps the pressure up on the fuel lines?
If the pressure reg was bust, would the loss in fuel pressure not be seen during warm up phase too? As that only works under the inlet manifold pressure, there is no direct link to temperature changes within the engine.

The tank seems to be ok, as there is clear'ish piping from the tank to the pump and is perfectly clean. The way that I thought was that if anything was blocked in that area, it would be seen during the warm up phase too.

The pressure doesn't drop to zero, but certainly heads that way! During the mis-fire stage, the pump can drop straight to 20'odd psi, even a bit less, but not really down to zero.
At this point too, the pump does NOT switch off. Instead, it runs normal, but one hell of a noise. This is where you would point straight to the regulator leaking off the fuel back to the tank, but why does this not happen during the warm up phase?

I'll put my hand up and say that I don't have a clue about electronics, but willing to give anything a shot, even though its a learning curve for myself.

Thanks for reading.
Old 20-02-2006, 04:06 PM
  #69  
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Same happend to mine when i bought it, changed the fuel filter and it been fine since also used to run for 10 mins then cut out after leaving for min used to fire straight back up for another 10, but never done it since changed fuel filter
Old 20-02-2006, 04:10 PM
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cheres for that rob. sums it up nicely.

where is best for a standard filter then? i shall just buy a new one. will i need different fittings though?
Old 20-02-2006, 04:16 PM
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How many posts during the time I started typing on the first page.....!!!

Right, you'll be able to get a standard filter from Ford or at least from Halfords or Dingbros. Surely about Ł17. Surely after watching me doing it, you'll know what to do now............!

The set up is TANK------>PUMP-------->FILTER.

We tried the multi-meter onto the relay (me in the boot), Chop making the mis-fires. Thats when she reached 17v!!!!!!!!!
Old 20-02-2006, 04:17 PM
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As for the fittings................not sure until I see the standard filter.
Old 20-02-2006, 04:21 PM
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i shall go to halfords tomorrow and also buy an ECT sensor because apparently they are cheaper there
Old 20-02-2006, 04:24 PM
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Ive just bought some new sensors off ebay got :

1. ECT

2. ACT

3. Water Temp sender

For Ł27.50 + p&p
Old 20-02-2006, 04:33 PM
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nice one! i'll check good old ebay then!
Old 20-02-2006, 04:38 PM
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They were here in a few days on doing rebuild so thought id change them while i was on.........Good luck getting car sorted
Old 20-02-2006, 04:42 PM
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thanks mate

going by your sig looks like a nice wee collection of cars you have
Old 20-02-2006, 04:46 PM
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Lol had a R1 to but binned it not long back into a house...
Old 20-02-2006, 04:57 PM
  #79  
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oops

as you can see im a biker too

hope you get another
Old 20-02-2006, 05:00 PM
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Yip i noticed nice bike i looking for another R1 still got me dyno kit n filters n exhoust off mine normaly go over the ring twice a year on it ......well used to


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