Engine Coolant Temp sensor - failure symptoms?
#42
Re: Engine Coolant Temp sensor - failure symptoms?
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by Lambchop
haha i did explain it actually
its a guy i know well and not some random i spoke to at ford
when i said falls to zero im not actually sure its ever gone that far. when you can see the gauge slowly lose pressure you can back off throttle and it picks up to "normal" again. not like it falls instantly to complete zero. falls gradually.
its a guy i know well and not some random i spoke to at ford
when i said falls to zero im not actually sure its ever gone that far. when you can see the gauge slowly lose pressure you can back off throttle and it picks up to "normal" again. not like it falls instantly to complete zero. falls gradually.
When you say its never gone "That" far.... how far has it gone?
Std is 3.5bar, idle is nearer 3, anything with boost is 3.5bar+ the boost.
#43
We had a real bastard once, kept killing pumps and other associated fuel items... after 3 pumps we finally took the fuel tank off and found it had been powder coated (Whole car was gleaming and well prepared) and the coating process had left some sand in teh tank that was slowly but surely destroying all in its path!!
#44
Originally Posted by RichardPON
What filter has it got then fella?
i dont know what it is. I called my mate Robin(Rocky Robin above) earlier and asked him if it looked like a standard one and he said it was different so i dont know.
#45
Originally Posted by rsnissan
long shot but could it be something in the tank thats causing the problem at the feed to the pump?
As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
#46
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does it got
TANK>>>>PUMP>>>FILTER????
as my mate had this way and as stu pointed out bits were killing pumps, so we installed another filter before pump, hay presto, job done
TANK>>>>PUMP>>>FILTER????
as my mate had this way and as stu pointed out bits were killing pumps, so we installed another filter before pump, hay presto, job done
#47
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Originally Posted by Lambchop
Originally Posted by rsnissan
long shot but could it be something in the tank thats causing the problem at the feed to the pump?
As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
I am just going by the noise of the pump you describe that coincides with the problem really. Not had/seen this happen before but just chucking ideas about really
#48
Originally Posted by rsnissan
Originally Posted by Lambchop
Originally Posted by rsnissan
long shot but could it be something in the tank thats causing the problem at the feed to the pump?
As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
As the pump will be noisey if there is no fuel going through it
I am just going by the noise of the pump you describe that coincides with the problem really. Not had/seen this happen before but just chucking ideas about really
#53
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by Lambchop
the pipe to the pump is pretty solid.
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its not the standard pipe..........that has clearly been cut down to feed the Y piece.
Mate looks like your going to have to do this systematically
I would 1st check the voltage to the pump get someone to sit in the car with a multimeter connected to the pump and then see what it reads when the problem occurs.
Then simplify the setup i.e remove the y piece and just to to the 1 pump and out of the one pump to the fuel pipe.
and go from there possibly with the aim to dropping the fuel lines, tank etc so you can eliminate that line of enquiry at least.
Mate looks like your going to have to do this systematically
I would 1st check the voltage to the pump get someone to sit in the car with a multimeter connected to the pump and then see what it reads when the problem occurs.
Then simplify the setup i.e remove the y piece and just to to the 1 pump and out of the one pump to the fuel pipe.
and go from there possibly with the aim to dropping the fuel lines, tank etc so you can eliminate that line of enquiry at least.
#56
Originally Posted by rsnissan
its not the standard pipe..........that has clearly been cut down to feed the Y piece.
Mate looks like your going to have to do this systematically
I would 1st check the voltage to the pump get someone to sit in the car with a multimeter connected to the pump and then see what it reads when the problem occurs.
Then simplify the setup i.e remove the y piece and just to to the 1 pump and out of the one pump to the fuel pipe.
and go from there possibly with the aim to dropping the fuel lines, tank etc so you can eliminate that line of enquiry at least.
Mate looks like your going to have to do this systematically
I would 1st check the voltage to the pump get someone to sit in the car with a multimeter connected to the pump and then see what it reads when the problem occurs.
Then simplify the setup i.e remove the y piece and just to to the 1 pump and out of the one pump to the fuel pipe.
and go from there possibly with the aim to dropping the fuel lines, tank etc so you can eliminate that line of enquiry at least.
no sure how to connect multimeter to the pump when we're moving...
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Originally Posted by Lambchop
no sure how to connect multimeter to the pump when we're moving...
wack the MM to voltage and get someone to see whan happens as you drive
#60
I would tend to agree with Stu there.
Might be worth dropping the setup down, and re-plumbing the aeroquip etc..... just to be on the safe side.
It will cost a fair amount, but when it's under the car looking like my old setup, and it's all secure and checked, then you'll have peace of mind.
Might be worth dropping the setup down, and re-plumbing the aeroquip etc..... just to be on the safe side.
It will cost a fair amount, but when it's under the car looking like my old setup, and it's all secure and checked, then you'll have peace of mind.
#62
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
What a fookin mess!!
should the filter be before the pump then? i think its time to start removing the shite i dont need and sorting this fucker out.
i shall remove the second standard pump altogether and have one hose from the tank to the new gpA pump.
you should see the connections in the boot!
there is some inline fuse thats attached behind the trim on n/s of boot. trim has been cut to fit round it. dont even know why it is there!
i dont mind paying to get things done. i just wish i was close to someone like yourself who i could trust to do the job properly and know what they were doing!
chop
#63
Chop - get rid of the second pump - it's unnecessary, and in the way.
Then run a piece of hose from the tank to pump with a proper fitting. Then it looks like you already have a decent quip connection from pump to filter.
Ideally, you want it looking like this(but obviously modified for your setup):
Not cheap, but done once, and done right.
Check that wiring too!
Then run a piece of hose from the tank to pump with a proper fitting. Then it looks like you already have a decent quip connection from pump to filter.
Ideally, you want it looking like this(but obviously modified for your setup):
Not cheap, but done once, and done right.
Check that wiring too!
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just do the fooking thing from scratch.........
............find the triger for the fuel pump go to a relay with that using decent wire to the Pump from the battery and a decent earth.
one 044 pump connected to one hose from the tank, then new standard filter or at least check yours out if uses replacement gauses.
then new aeroquiped lines to the engine bay from the filter.
its VERY easy to do yourself and not that expensive at all.
edit doh! Rich has just said the same thing lol
............find the triger for the fuel pump go to a relay with that using decent wire to the Pump from the battery and a decent earth.
one 044 pump connected to one hose from the tank, then new standard filter or at least check yours out if uses replacement gauses.
then new aeroquiped lines to the engine bay from the filter.
its VERY easy to do yourself and not that expensive at all.
edit doh! Rich has just said the same thing lol
#65
cheers for that rich
not sure why anyone would want 2 standard pumps on the car anyways
what kind of filter is that that you have? would a standard one be sufficient for me? i dont want any fancy shit. just something that will cope properly.
so is yours tank to filter then pump?
not sure why anyone would want 2 standard pumps on the car anyways
what kind of filter is that that you have? would a standard one be sufficient for me? i dont want any fancy shit. just something that will cope properly.
so is yours tank to filter then pump?
#68
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
I too appreciate the comments above. Any advice is better than none! Thanks lads (+ lassie!)
I believe the filter fitted is a high flow billet filter - anodised in colour (blue and red). They are not standard.
From obvious test runs, it only happens when the car is up to normal temperature. A temp sensor could easily have this issue. For the sake of a few pennies, changing it will not harm the car.
Looking at one of the cossie manuals I have here, I see that the ECT signal affects the injector open time and idle speed. Having said that, the car has stalled at times during the mis-firing stages.
Am I right in saying that the one-way valve on the pump does the same job as the fuel accumulator on Mk3 Escorts? ie keeps the pressure up on the fuel lines?
If the pressure reg was bust, would the loss in fuel pressure not be seen during warm up phase too? As that only works under the inlet manifold pressure, there is no direct link to temperature changes within the engine.
The tank seems to be ok, as there is clear'ish piping from the tank to the pump and is perfectly clean. The way that I thought was that if anything was blocked in that area, it would be seen during the warm up phase too.
The pressure doesn't drop to zero, but certainly heads that way! During the mis-fire stage, the pump can drop straight to 20'odd psi, even a bit less, but not really down to zero.
At this point too, the pump does NOT switch off. Instead, it runs normal, but one hell of a noise. This is where you would point straight to the regulator leaking off the fuel back to the tank, but why does this not happen during the warm up phase?
I'll put my hand up and say that I don't have a clue about electronics, but willing to give anything a shot, even though its a learning curve for myself.
Thanks for reading.
I believe the filter fitted is a high flow billet filter - anodised in colour (blue and red). They are not standard.
From obvious test runs, it only happens when the car is up to normal temperature. A temp sensor could easily have this issue. For the sake of a few pennies, changing it will not harm the car.
Looking at one of the cossie manuals I have here, I see that the ECT signal affects the injector open time and idle speed. Having said that, the car has stalled at times during the mis-firing stages.
Am I right in saying that the one-way valve on the pump does the same job as the fuel accumulator on Mk3 Escorts? ie keeps the pressure up on the fuel lines?
If the pressure reg was bust, would the loss in fuel pressure not be seen during warm up phase too? As that only works under the inlet manifold pressure, there is no direct link to temperature changes within the engine.
The tank seems to be ok, as there is clear'ish piping from the tank to the pump and is perfectly clean. The way that I thought was that if anything was blocked in that area, it would be seen during the warm up phase too.
The pressure doesn't drop to zero, but certainly heads that way! During the mis-fire stage, the pump can drop straight to 20'odd psi, even a bit less, but not really down to zero.
At this point too, the pump does NOT switch off. Instead, it runs normal, but one hell of a noise. This is where you would point straight to the regulator leaking off the fuel back to the tank, but why does this not happen during the warm up phase?
I'll put my hand up and say that I don't have a clue about electronics, but willing to give anything a shot, even though its a learning curve for myself.
Thanks for reading.
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Same happend to mine when i bought it, changed the fuel filter and it been fine since also used to run for 10 mins then cut out after leaving for min used to fire straight back up for another 10, but never done it since changed fuel filter
#71
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How many posts during the time I started typing on the first page.....!!!
Right, you'll be able to get a standard filter from Ford or at least from Halfords or Dingbros. Surely about Ł17. Surely after watching me doing it, you'll know what to do now............!
The set up is TANK------>PUMP-------->FILTER.
We tried the multi-meter onto the relay (me in the boot), Chop making the mis-fires. Thats when she reached 17v!!!!!!!!!
Right, you'll be able to get a standard filter from Ford or at least from Halfords or Dingbros. Surely about Ł17. Surely after watching me doing it, you'll know what to do now............!
The set up is TANK------>PUMP-------->FILTER.
We tried the multi-meter onto the relay (me in the boot), Chop making the mis-fires. Thats when she reached 17v!!!!!!!!!