Alright folks might be fitting a s1 chargecooler on my car, wanted to find out exactly how there supposed to run?

Do you have to switch the pump on yourself? or can it be wired so they charge cooler automaticlly works sorta thing?


Interested on what the correct fitting method is on a s1 or instructions if at all possible?

cheers

 

fit a 4x4 sapp cossie intercooler on you wont have any ACT probs and prob cheapest option

 

i have the s1 chargecooler already with brand new pump, thought i'd utilise it, if its good.

If its factory fitment is just fit it and it works itself i'm all for it. But if its on a switch and then u switchc it on etc, aint to sure about that as that would be a pain

cheers

 

im just takin a guess but u could run it of the ingiton loive so when u start the car it comes on, put a fues in the wire and a l.e.d wired of the pump with a risister to tell you if its on ? but prob not im just bored and workin ways out ?

 

thats how my mate had it fitted to his car, just wired direct to ignition, but on freezing cold mornings he was always getting drain on his battery. Cos as soon as he'd put ignition on the pump started whirring away and he had to try cranking over aswell to start it.

Must be a better fitment for this system or unless i just fit it with a little switch. So you could start car up then stick the chargecooler on, but again i'm sure there would come a time when i forget to switch the thing off

any other ideas for best setup or system to run a chargecooler folks?

cheers

 

My chargecooler works on a similar vein to the fuel pump, ignition 2 and the pump starts working. There's also a ceramic resisitor that comes with the kit and it works on 2 speeds but I junked that and my pump works at full speed all the time. Pump fits on the inner wing by the fuel filter, reservoir I've fitted with a small bracket on the brake servo.

 

my chargecooler is on a switch mate and its not a problem

 

It is better to have them on a switch i have heard.

this is because when driving hard it could be switched on to lower the acts. But if your are normally driving than not worth it because the water temp getting pumped around slowly rises and as a result the acts go up.

Imagine a boiler at home. The water in the system will go up if it is just getting pumped around and not being left to cool down.

charge cooler is great with pump on for short blasts (1/4 mile, etc).

Intercooler is all round better option. Go for GRS.

If I am wrong I am sorry, and please correct me, but that is my understanding of it.

 

have it wired in to come on with the ignition, your battery/alternator should be fine to start the car in all conditions,if it can't with just a chargecooler pump running then something is amiss. You don't ever want the risk of not turning it on! (although wiring in a pump failure light would be a great idea!)

The water in the chargecooler system is completely seperate to the water within the engine so if you are only driving around at 30-40mph or whatever, the air coming to the chargecooler pre-rad will keep things fairly cool, but in addition at these speeds ACT's will be minimal as you'll be using very little boost. So within the water jacket things are nice and cool, then when you accelerate the ACT's in theory rise,but with the car moving faster, the air acting on the front of the car is also cooler, so the water inside the chargecooler is still fairly cool, meaning the ACT's are still good.

i used one on my 230bhp Fiesta and it worked well, but for big power cars the kits from pace etc aren't adequate so i'd stick to big FMIC or get a custom chargecooler made.

 

I was not refering to the water in the engine water system. I understand this as I had a charge cooler for a while too.

However the amount of cooling is dependent upon the sixe of the pre rad and the amount of time the water stays in the rad to cool.

Imagine blowing on a hot cup of tea. How long does it take you to cooler the tea down.

 

also remember with the water in the cup it is static and not moving but within a charge cooler the water is moving and being pumped around.

 

size of pre-rad does play a part yes, the water flows in the opposite direction to the charge air, and water has much more capability of cooling than air does

 

true but it is the rate at which is water is heated and cooled that is of importance. Take for example the pre-rad which the water uses to cool down within, if the water has half a second to cool will it be cool enough to keep acts low. I dont think so. I believe that because the rate of which the water is pumped and the heat produced by a big power engine the water would not have enough time to cool to ensure ACTS are kept low.

The air yes does play a role but on a nice hot day your basically screwed.



DO WHAT I DID AND BIN THE CHARGE COOLER AND GET A NICE BIG INTERCOOLER.

 

hmmm so as another pre rad what if i some how utilised another radiator from another car that is small, e.g a renault 5 gt turbo radiator and used this as my pre rad, would this make a big difference aswell? The s1 chargecooler pre rad aint that great in size, but if there was a nice big rad for the charge cooler i can see it working pretty damn good.

is this right or well wrong, lol?

cheers folks, keep it coming very informative

 

Sunny, its not worth doing. Where under the bonnet will you put the other rad?

I dont know anyones thats bothered.

Please dont think about cutting up that nice S1.

 

hmmm, sounds interesting

 

i'll make a bracket pull rad in abit and use the space between the grille an rad an maybe move the fac across abit aswell if its in the way.

no way be cutting anything

thing i aint to fond about of these large intercoolers, they make your car run hotter which is not a good thing being forced induction motors.

My mate put his GRS evo3 and kenlowes on his s2 in the summer last year and the thing after booting it racing and then sitting in traffic, would not stop overheating. There was nothing wrong with headgasket or anything cos it was replaced just 1000miles before when engine was rebuilt and no mayo.

His original rad kinda exploded it had bulged out from the sides and started leaking from edges, hence why he bought the pro alloy kit afterwards. which was abit suspect too if racing hard an then stand still but has now kinda sorted itself out and it runs ok now

hence why i deter from them cos the block the rad totally

cheers

 

Sunny you can try it mate but I dont think it will solve the problem. Also your mates car only over heat due to the engine water system not being up to it, not the intercooler. #

When your mate was racing, what were the acts? was the car loosing any power?

 

there is loads of room for the pre rad in a series1

 

even a bigger pre rad than the pace item supplied for the s1 kit andy?

I've seen r5 turbo rads and there tiny, lol, or if anyone knows of a good pre rad upgrade for my chargecooler kit, i'm sure it will become more effective with a nicer size pre rad being fitted keeping more water cool an quicker.

cheers

 

Absolutely correct - there is NO cutting or body modifications needed to make a Pace system fit. If there was I wouldn't have got one for my car as there no way I'm chopping her about.