Questions, Questions, Questions. Help a new guy out
18-05-2005, 08:38 PM
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Questions, Questions, Questions. Help a new guy out
Hi all, Im hoping some of the Cosworths Gurus are going to stumble upon this thread (or even just some guys that are in the know 
I have a 1988 Sapphire and am currrently having a stage 2 conversion done on my baby, I have many questions which no one can answer over here in New Zealand as there are f@#k all Cosworths and even less people who know how to fix/map them.
Here are the parts that I am getting installed ( The only other modifications I currently have are a K&N Panel filter and a Mongoose S/S exhaust)
Cometic Rocker Cover Gasket
Full set of Red Samco Hoses with cold side dump valve location
Bailey Header Tank
Bailey swirl pot
Bailey dump valve DV24
Pace RS500 type 50mm Intercooler
Bailey Crankcase Breather system
Bosch Dark Green 803 Injectors
Garrett -31 Actuator
Weber 3 Bar Map Sensor
Ahmed Bayjoo Chip Level 6
Here are my questions
1: Will I need to change my current spark plugs ( NGK Iridium 3667 BCPR6EIX-11 ) and if so what type should I use?
2: Can I put a recirculating Dump Valve ie. Bailey DV30 on the coldside and run the release hose all the way back across to my airbox?
3: Is there any way I can silence my current DV24 Dump Valve?
4:Is there any danger in swapping between using 98 Octance and 104 Octane fuels in my Cosworth?
5:What is a safe boost to run with all these modifications done (bearing in mind my turbo hasnt been rebuilt, its 17 years old) ?
6: Is there anyway to safely adjust the boost without having a "Boost Gauge" installed?
7: Is there any tuning that is required after installing a new chip or is everything programmed into the chip and you just drive away?
8:
If anyone can answer all or even some of these questions it would be most appreciated.
CheeRS Ollie from New Zealand
I have a 1988 Sapphire and am currrently having a stage 2 conversion done on my baby, I have many questions which no one can answer over here in New Zealand as there are f@#k all Cosworths and even less people who know how to fix/map them.
Here are the parts that I am getting installed ( The only other modifications I currently have are a K&N Panel filter and a Mongoose S/S exhaust)
Cometic Rocker Cover Gasket
Full set of Red Samco Hoses with cold side dump valve location
Bailey Header Tank
Bailey swirl pot
Bailey dump valve DV24
Pace RS500 type 50mm Intercooler
Bailey Crankcase Breather system
Bosch Dark Green 803 Injectors
Garrett -31 Actuator
Weber 3 Bar Map Sensor
Ahmed Bayjoo Chip Level 6
Here are my questions
1: Will I need to change my current spark plugs ( NGK Iridium 3667 BCPR6EIX-11 ) and if so what type should I use?
2: Can I put a recirculating Dump Valve ie. Bailey DV30 on the coldside and run the release hose all the way back across to my airbox?
3: Is there any way I can silence my current DV24 Dump Valve?
4:Is there any danger in swapping between using 98 Octance and 104 Octane fuels in my Cosworth?
5:What is a safe boost to run with all these modifications done (bearing in mind my turbo hasnt been rebuilt, its 17 years old) ?
6: Is there anyway to safely adjust the boost without having a "Boost Gauge" installed?
7: Is there any tuning that is required after installing a new chip or is everything programmed into the chip and you just drive away?
8:
If anyone can answer all or even some of these questions it would be most appreciated.
CheeRS Ollie from New Zealand
19-05-2005, 05:22 AM
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2: Can I put a recirculating Dump Valve ie. Bailey DV30 on the coldside and run the release hose all the way back across to my airbox ; I take it the the Samco's Have the dv take off on the cold side Soz im not sure on the answer 
3: Is there any way I can silence my current DV24 Dump Valve? ; Just change it m8
6: Is there anyway to safely adjust the boost without having a "Boost Gauge" installed? ; Not a good idea realy m8 better safe then sorry m8
7: Is there any tuning that is required after installing a new chip or is everything programmed into the chip and you just drive away? ; Your need it setting up maybe re mapped
Also Running the 803's and 3bar your going to need to realy uprate the turbo to a t34 as im guessing you have the t3 still 2 Reasions 1 Turbo want last long (if it even spins up enough to run right) and 2 it will probly over fuel the engine
As for the Plugs im not sure about
Whot stage chip you going for as if you have the 803's / 3 bar you might aswell get a stage 3 chip and the t34 Save's you money in the long run 
Hope this is alright for you sorry about the spelling And please if anyone has any ameanment on whot i put please say as im only going by whot i can think of
Soz im not sure on the answer 3: Is there any way I can silence my current DV24 Dump Valve? ; Just change it m8
6: Is there anyway to safely adjust the boost without having a "Boost Gauge" installed? ; Not a good idea realy m8 better safe then sorry m8
7: Is there any tuning that is required after installing a new chip or is everything programmed into the chip and you just drive away? ; Your need it setting up maybe re mapped
Also Running the 803's and 3bar your going to need to realy uprate the turbo to a t34 as im guessing you have the t3 still
2 Reasions 1 Turbo want last long (if it even spins up enough to run right) and 2 it will probly over fuel the engine As for the Plugs im not sure about
Whot stage chip you going for as if you have the 803's / 3 bar you might aswell get a stage 3 chip and the t34 Save's you money in the long run Hope this is alright for you sorry about the spelling
And please if anyone has any ameanment on whot i put please say as im only going by whot i can think of
19-05-2005, 09:24 AM
#3
Testing the future
1: Will I need to change my current spark plugs ( NGK Iridium 3667 BCPR6EIX-11 ) and if so what type should I use?
don't know those plugs at all. i use ford 071's on basically the same set up as you that are just a couple of quid each. i would love to give you a part number, but the search function is not working
2: Can I put a recirculating Dump Valve ie. Bailey DV30 on the coldside and run the release hose all the way back across to my airbox?
yes. that's a good idea, better than the original place with the hotside air being recirculated by the d/v
3: Is there any way I can silence my current DV24 Dump Valve?
a non recirc d/v can always be wrapped in foam to help silence it. or you can put it on a long hose and into the airbox effectively turning it into a recirc one. it may not dump as much as it would when mounted directly on the cold side hose though, as there will be a pressure drop along the long hose. i run without a d/v and have no problems with the turbo and find the engine more responsive on gear changes
4:Is there any danger in swapping between using 98 Octance and 104 Octane fuels in my Cosworth?
is that 98 and 104 RON? if so, 98 is plenty. 104 will not give you any more power on astd chip as the ignition advance will not be mapped in to take advantage of it, bt it will give you a saftey margin against detonation if you have any kind of sensor problem. depending on the cost and how much mileage you'll do, you have to chose which to run.
5:What is a safe boost to run with all these modifications done (bearing in mind my turbo hasnt been rebuilt, its 17 years old) ?
[b]depends what the chip is mapped to, normally about 22 psi held. i run that with no problems on my std 2wd t3. check with the chip supplier/mapper though. ad make sure that the map is for your turbo spec, not for a t34. a t34 flows more air at the same boost pressre, so a t34 map will be rich on a t3 engine[b/]
6: Is there anyway to safely adjust the boost without having a "Boost Gauge" installed?
you need a boost gauge of some sort installed, but not necessarily a manometer type with an air connection. the car already has a MAP sensor, so you can read the output of that sensor on a voltmeter and convert it to pressure.
7: Is there any tuning that is required after installing a new chip or is everything programmed into the chip and you just drive away?
theoretically no, if the map is suited to your engine spec. a setup should be done though, but that's something different to tuning. you should have the fuelling checked with a proper wideband lambda sensor under all operating conditions. the plastic screw on the ecu can be adjusted to alter the fuelling over the entire rev range, but you should know what you're doing before fiddling with it. the fuel pressure should also be checked. also, a fuelling check at idle does not gaurantee an adequate fuel supply at high rpm+boost. if your chip was bought from a reliable supplier, it should be good and have a relatively high safety margin built in as the spec that you will be running is well known
8:
i can't answer no. 8
don't know those plugs at all. i use ford 071's on basically the same set up as you that are just a couple of quid each. i would love to give you a part number, but the search function is not working
2: Can I put a recirculating Dump Valve ie. Bailey DV30 on the coldside and run the release hose all the way back across to my airbox?
yes. that's a good idea, better than the original place with the hotside air being recirculated by the d/v
3: Is there any way I can silence my current DV24 Dump Valve?
a non recirc d/v can always be wrapped in foam to help silence it. or you can put it on a long hose and into the airbox effectively turning it into a recirc one. it may not dump as much as it would when mounted directly on the cold side hose though, as there will be a pressure drop along the long hose. i run without a d/v and have no problems with the turbo and find the engine more responsive on gear changes
4:Is there any danger in swapping between using 98 Octance and 104 Octane fuels in my Cosworth?
is that 98 and 104 RON? if so, 98 is plenty. 104 will not give you any more power on astd chip as the ignition advance will not be mapped in to take advantage of it, bt it will give you a saftey margin against detonation if you have any kind of sensor problem. depending on the cost and how much mileage you'll do, you have to chose which to run.
5:What is a safe boost to run with all these modifications done (bearing in mind my turbo hasnt been rebuilt, its 17 years old) ?
[b]depends what the chip is mapped to, normally about 22 psi held. i run that with no problems on my std 2wd t3. check with the chip supplier/mapper though. ad make sure that the map is for your turbo spec, not for a t34. a t34 flows more air at the same boost pressre, so a t34 map will be rich on a t3 engine[b/]
6: Is there anyway to safely adjust the boost without having a "Boost Gauge" installed?
you need a boost gauge of some sort installed, but not necessarily a manometer type with an air connection. the car already has a MAP sensor, so you can read the output of that sensor on a voltmeter and convert it to pressure.
7: Is there any tuning that is required after installing a new chip or is everything programmed into the chip and you just drive away?
theoretically no, if the map is suited to your engine spec. a setup should be done though, but that's something different to tuning. you should have the fuelling checked with a proper wideband lambda sensor under all operating conditions. the plastic screw on the ecu can be adjusted to alter the fuelling over the entire rev range, but you should know what you're doing before fiddling with it. the fuel pressure should also be checked. also, a fuelling check at idle does not gaurantee an adequate fuel supply at high rpm+boost. if your chip was bought from a reliable supplier, it should be good and have a relatively high safety margin built in as the spec that you will be running is well known
8:
i can't answer no. 8
22-05-2005, 01:01 PM
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Cheers for your help so far guys.
Im running 18psi at the moment and thats plenty to piss over most of the Subaru Imprezzas and Mitsubishi Evolutions over here in New Zealand, Its hard enough keeping traction with the standard boost now its 10x the fun
I must email Ahmed Bayjoo and find out how much boost the chip has been mapped to.
Anyone know what the chip would have been mapped to boost wise if I was doing a stage 2 conversion and using an Ahmed Bayjoo chip???
Im running 18psi at the moment and thats plenty to piss over most of the Subaru Imprezzas and Mitsubishi Evolutions over here in New Zealand, Its hard enough keeping traction with the standard boost now its 10x the fun
I must email Ahmed Bayjoo and find out how much boost the chip has been mapped to.
Anyone know what the chip would have been mapped to boost wise if I was doing a stage 2 conversion and using an Ahmed Bayjoo chip???
26-05-2005, 06:57 AM
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Hey fellas, I've just finished adding all the bits.
I havent changed the plugs as Im not sure what ones I should be running for Stage 2.
It runs a little rough at Idle (mainly when I pull up at the lights and the revs drop right down to 500rpm and sounds like its about to cut out and then a couple of seconds later it goes back to normal and settles on its normal 1000rpm.
Is there any tuning I can do or any checks I can make.
It sucks that no one can properly tune or map Cosworths in New Zealand.
Anyone know what type of plugs I should run with a stage 2 conversion?
Here are a few pics...
I havent changed the plugs as Im not sure what ones I should be running for Stage 2.
It runs a little rough at Idle (mainly when I pull up at the lights and the revs drop right down to 500rpm and sounds like its about to cut out and then a couple of seconds later it goes back to normal and settles on its normal 1000rpm.
Is there any tuning I can do or any checks I can make.
It sucks that no one can properly tune or map Cosworths in New Zealand.
Anyone know what type of plugs I should run with a stage 2 conversion?
Here are a few pics...
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27-05-2005, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jon@work
The plugs that Stu @ MSD recommends are, as said above, the Ford 071s, finis code 1120834, approx Ł12 a set.
Im hopping someone here can help me with a slight problem I'm having with my Sapphire..................
I was having the problem of "When I pull to a stop the engine revs die slightly then pick up again,its not bad enough to stall the engine but it is annoying"
I had the inlet speed control valve off yesterday and gave it a good scub to get all the carbon out, now its clean as.
I adjusted the the idle screw with the ISCV Plug off and set it to 850rpm, when I put the plug back on the revs jump up briefly and then settle on 1000rpm.
Now I dont have the problem of the revs dieing when I pull to a stop (the idle srew adjusting has fixed that)
But now when I push my foot on the accelerator and say rev the engine to 3000rpm when I take my foot off the accelerator I get the revs breifly pausing at around 2500rpm , then it drops and sticks again at 1500rpm before slowly coming to an idle at 1000rpm.
It does this everytime I accelerate.
Anyone have any ideas?. It's very annoying
Cheers
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