Hi Chaps

Any suggestions on loosening the rear main axel nut with trailing arm on the ground off the car.

Have a size 41 socket and big lever. Gave it a go and not budging either way.

From other posts read passenger side left hand thread and its tightened to a hellof a torque setting. I tried wedging on the outer cv flange with couple bolts but ended up bending bolts . Also to much fighting and dancing keeping the trailing arm on the floor.

Is the only way for it to be on the car or is there another option?

 

I made up this gadget at work to get the job done.

 

Thanks Mark that looks like a thick chunky piece of metal righ there. Did you have another person hold the other lever down while you were loosening the nut end?

Cheers

 

Did it on my own mate, would have been easier with some help though!

 

Thanks again for this idea and method Mark. I had a 2 inch plate made up. Slightly wider so plates long edge rests flat on the floor. The RHS was easier than the LHS. I however had some help. Me standing on the arm as a counter weight and another persuading (shock therapy) and levering the nut.

The LHS was harder 3 person job. Two of us held the article as counter weight and holding the socket in position and then with very long leverage, another pushing downwards on the lever. If finally cracked open.

Note LHS was definitely a left hand thread. Loosened to the right. Unfortunately didn't take pic of the event.

LHS trailing arm



So now finally have task of disassembly. Prep clean and paint. Replace and reassemble

Rear Hubs, hub carriers & outer axle shaft


Once the stub axle was loose and removed from the hub, is the hub supposed to be loose from the bearings. Mine pulled out by hand. it just slid out. I'm wondering if that's a sign for new bearing replacement or is this normal. Aren't they pressed In?

Trailing arm Inner - original rubber bush








why is there a very flat perpendicular side on one end and then dotted mouldings on the other end

The trailing arm outer bush looks completely different to this one that both ends are bulging and rounded not completely flat. Will this make a difference when casting in polyurethane bushes?

Trailing arm outer - original rubber bush



is there a best home DIY method of pulling these out without destroying then to bits. I need it for sampling and sizing up for the poly bushes

Also can the main beam bushing be recovered without destroying it to bits.

what's a good DIY method. I was thing along the lines of threaded bar some heavy duty nuts. Big think fender washers and pvc plumber's pipe?


Are poly's better than the bearing types?

Car won't be for track. Fast road / comfort, tight corners. Lots of bumps and potholes. Uneven road surfaces

If polys what's a good shore hardness for the above application and road condition

Cheers

 

Threaded bar and a tube to receive the bush, put a big plate over the end of the tube and rest the tube on the bit where the bush is and then wind the nut up to pull out the bush.

impact gun is your friend on both of the jobs you pictured.

 

i did the same but welded a big bit of flat bar onto an old brake disc, worked a treat

 

Manage to recover the bushings yesterday. Ended buying some of those steel pipe fittings and connectors with HT M12 threaded bar, thick fender washers and some nuts. Hand wrenched it off with a size 19 spanner and shifter.

Had to stand the beam upright and physically hold and stand on the beam for counter balance to turn spanner, then it just popped. Can only remove from the bottom out. Top way does not work as its tapered.

1. Rear beam



2. Main bush-insulator. I ended up replacing the chasing side with the size 36 impact socket. Also had to snip two edges to get the pipe fitting over and around the insulator to sit flush and hard onto the beam.



3. Lock nut on one end and a series of washers, fittings and size 36 impact socket connected



4. Removal tool setup arrangement for big insulator


Next post to follow......

 

5. Inner Bush arrangement setup



6. Smaller piping connectors were used here. Chasing it with the size 22 socket



7. Series of Size 22 socket connectors, collars adapters and reducers used



Post for outer bush to follow

 

8. Outer bush setup



9.



10.



11.



12.

bush is easily recovered

 

Couple questions

Once bushes are removed, can I go ahead and have the entire bits powder coated. Are there any sensitive areas that need to be cleaned and blanked or masked off prior to blasting and coating? What is the norm for preparation before blasting and painting?

Cheers