MADMAXPTT

Hi! I own a 4wd Sapphire Rs Cosworth and I'm having an AFR issue.
My car has been live mapped and after 4 months parked in my garage I 've noticed a strange issue with my AFR.
My car is Stage 3 tuned.
My fuel system is equiped with:
1. 044 fuel pump
2. new lines (std diameter)
3. Malpassi FSA (for turbo) fuel pressure regulator
4. Siemens Deka 630cc High Impedance injectors

When I start my engine (I have my start-up valve disconnected because my car has been mapped to work this way) my AFR is at 12,5 and raises up to 13,5 : 1 (when engine is cold)
When my engine riches correct operating temperatures is working at 13,9 to 14,3 :1
If I keep it working for long time and let the cooling fans to work for 3-4 times then AFR goes to 14,4 to 15,5 :1
As long as I let it working AFR changes up to 17 and 18:1
These AFR reading are available when car is working at idle or light throttle.
If I try to raise boost it goes to 11,5:1

Some times I hear a strange noise on my Fuel Pressure Regulator and under the car's floor

I 've installed a fuel pressure regulator on my fuel line and I saw that at idle fuel pressure is at 3 bar, when I raise boost pressure it goes up (like 4 or 4+ bar fuel pressure), when I make light throttle movements I see that pressure goes down to 2,8 and returns back to 3 bar.

Do you have any idea what do I have to check?

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You mean you have fitted a pressure gauge, that is correct as it's 1:1, that is to say for every bar above atmospheric it will raise the pressure by 1 BAR.

Martin

MADMAXPTT

For each psi that boost rises the same amount of psi's are added to fuel pressure.
I have problem only on light throttle and idle

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

I would think them figures are around about right ?? Makes sense as the afr is near 14-15:1 at hot idle and 11.5:1 with boost.

MADMAXPTT

I took a multimeter to check volt from my battery and my fuel pump.
Battery (engine off): 12,4v
Battery (engine running): 13,6v
fuel pump (engine running): 12,1v
then I have opened lights(high), fog lights(front&rear), Ventilation (cabin&engine), alarm
Battery (engine running): 12,5v
fuel pump (engine running): 9,9v-10,1v
I have changed my fuel line from battery but I have installed a safety switch (is it possible that the switch rises so much the resistance of the cable?)
My battery is 4 years old and is 74Ah, I'm thinking about to change it with a 60Ah item

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

you need to rewire your fuel pump, the original cables are the problem.
you can do it yourself using the original wiring to trigger a relay and a direct feed straight from the battery, or take the easy option and buy something like this
http://shop.motorsport-developments....044-1011-p.asp

matthart

I wish they made a replacement loom like that for the S2 (or in my case an Orion EFI Turbo)

Stu?

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

there is nothing to them to be honest, simple to make your own, and there is no reason the cosworth one above wouldn't work on an orion, its a little long in the saph tbh, you would just end up with a bit coiled up somewhere.
It connects to the battery, with a relay on the inner wing or bulkhead, then runs into the car, down one side and into the spare wheel well. you then connect one wire from the new loom to the original pump feed in the boot and connect the ends up to the fuel pump, job done.

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

9v at idle imagine at WOT ...... Rewire the fuel loom without your switch and see if there is a difference . Fords own safety switch shouldnt effect the voltage .