Ive been running my MSD stage 3 setup for a couple of weeks now without issues. And out of the blue its started missing on boost. Get past or hold more the 10-12 psi and its like hitting a wall, pops and bangs. the car drives mint off boost /light boost. no idles issues, smooth as silk around the doors.

The following have all been replaced as part of the Stage 3:

New IK27's with upgrade last week gapped @ 0.6mm. I previously ran PP12's when it was stage 1 and was perfect.

New Marelli 3 bar map sensor.
New 803's
Motorpsort leads.

So far i have checked the following.

Checked plug gaps @ 0.6mm
Checked crank sensor @ 0.6mm - sensor done 3k miles
Phase sensor @ 0.3mm - sensor done 3k miles.

The only thing I havent changed is the coil. Its still on the standard coil as im waiting for a group A item from Matt Lewis. Cant see it been that though as its been driving fine for a few weeks.

Any Ideas.

 

forgot to mention. Its running a 044 fuel pump, with MSD loom (checked pump voltage, getting 13v). Also has a new MSD/webcon 3.5bar FPR.

 

hi mate i would personally buy a grpA coil if stage3 also check the amal

 

check/change plug leads dizzy cap and rotor arm

and try another set of plugs 071's for example

steve

 

Cheers,

cant see it being the leads, they are pretty much new motorsport ones. My groupA coil should be here tomorrow, and I will get some 071c's from Ford, and see how it goes.
Just strange how it started all of a sudden. Been running fine for a week or so, then took my mate out for spin, hit 4th gear spluttered and backfired. Next day it ran fine for a while, boosted fine, then started doing the same thing again.

 

get your plugs from matt lewis or msd, got to be cheaper than ford

steve

 

With trade discount the last ones I bought were about Ł7 i think. Not sure how much they are at MSD, i'll have a check.

 

Mine does exactly the same and am convinced it is to do with the plugs as I played around with the gaps and it cured it for a short while, have just changed to NGK plugs and everything was great then it came back but not so bad. Still trying...........

 

Happened on my 3 dr the other week and on my saphire stage 2 MSD a year ago.

Problem was when you swap the distributor cap you touch or push the plastic connector from the crank sensor behind the ingition when you unplug or wiggle this one a lot of times problem is gone due to age of the thingy it had bad contact then causing ..... headaches.

Steven

 

What's the rev counter doing when she mis-fires?

Luciano

 

I'd check your voltage at the battery with everything on (lights, heaters, front and rear screens) check that it doesn't go below 13v because it could be your alternator.

 

Not sure, never noticed it doing anything out of the ordinary. Why do you ask?

I noticed the exhaust tailpipe was black after a 30 minute drive. Its normally a nice grey sooty colour. Im assuming the pops and bangs are unburnt fuel igniting, so im leaning towards ignition, given then it drives perfect off boost.

Ive ordered some 071c's, group a coil, dizzy cap and arm. Ive also ordered a genuine ECT sensor from ford, incase its thats causing issues. will see how i get on.

 

Sounds like plugs to me.

 

My uncles one did the same thing last year,we thought it was the amal valve for a start and were fucking about with it but it turned out to be a duff plug,new set and she was perfect.

 

Well, it ran all last year @ stage 1 with Motorcraft PP12's and never had a issue. Switched to IK27s after recomendations. I'll fit the new coil and some 071c's and see what happens.

Cheers for the advice

 

I used ngk iridium bkr9eix in mine,-34,running greens @22 psi.Plugs gapped at .65,it only ever missed once in third gear giving it beans.New set of plugs job jobbed,I also changed the coil to a grp A one when I first got the car.The plugs I changed as a matter of course,12months then in the bin.

 

Well, Ive just fitted some new 071c's tried them gapped @ 0.6mm then @ 0.55mm and a new dizzycap and rotor, but still no joy. It ticks over lumpy as anything. took it out for a drive and definately feels rougher than with the ik27's. Still mis-firing under boost and back firing. Rev counter needle does jump when it mis-fires / backfires. Hopefully, my group a coil will be here tomorrow.

Checked battery voltages and getting over 14v so alternator seems ok.

 

I tried the 071C's in mine and it just did'nt like them, I bought them in error. It would'nt even idle properly and eventually just cut out.

Missfired a few times as well.

I swapped back to PP12's and it ran sweet as a nut

 

I was told by MSd that the PP12s were no good for 330+bhp which is why i moved to the ik27s. To be fair, i had been using the with the denso's for 1-2 weeks without issue.

 

If it's ticking over lumpy as fook the map sensor might be buggered... Have you got an old 2 bar one you could plug in just fire up to see if it changed?

I had a issue last year with it hitting a wall and it was the phase sensor earthing out. But seen you've changed that but might be worth to take it off and give it a inspection.

Charlie asked about the rev counter as if it jumps around and goes mad the ignition sensor earth on the wing near the battery can cause this... Rip off and have a little look at it..... Might be worth a clean-up.

 

Is that the Ignition amp your talking about? im assuming it must be earth through the body of the sensor to the inner wing?

Yeh, ive checked the phase sensor and the gaps are ok and wiring looks ok, it was new last year. The only thing that I have changed, but was before the Stage 3 setup, was:
1) tidied the battery wiring. I ran all the wiring into two junction boxes, and then to the battery. All the earth connections stayed the same though, it was mainly just the positve wires.
2) Fitted braided fuel lines. The MSD Webcon FPR is mounted on top of the map sensor bracket.

The car has ran fine for approx 2 weeks every day since the above was done, it only started doing this after giving it some beans the other night. Getting fecked off now.

 

Only skim read, so sorry if you've changed it already - rev counter jumping shouts crank position sensor to me

 

Make sure the tips of the 071's are on tight mate.

 

It could be mate. When I put the car on the road last year, it had a full new sensor kit, its only done around 3k miles since.

I did mate. It was missing/back firing with the other plugs in too.

 

Mine was doing this just before I stripped it for the rebuild.......what ignition sensor earth?

Is it the ignition amp & bracket?

 

My car done the same a while back changed the plugs that sorted it I have a friend that races v cars he said that alot of times after a days racing once the cars cool down they go of a cylinder he said that the plugs are not near as good as they used to be

 

Had 071's in a couple of mates cars. Idled shit and missed, popped, banged, blew its spark out. BCR8ES's are all I use and never had a problem with them, even at 36psi on my T34.63 there was no misfiring or spluttering and they are less than a fiver on Halfords trade card

My own car had developed a miss and I changed allsorts, I changed the dizzy eventually and it made it a bit better then one day it died totally. I checked all sensord Id changed etc and then noticed that one of the lugs on my bottom pully had gone missing . Another pulley and it fired up first time and no missfires again

 

You got me thinking, it snapped the power steering belt the other week and took out the aux belts at the same time. Might have snapped one off. Will check in the morning

 

if they all seem to still be there then give the lugs a wiggle with your fingers. Mine died while driving, must have flew off somewhere .

Gordon tells me you selling it??

 

And the prize goes too........................ Mr BigErn One lug missing. Suprised it drove ok on three . However did the engine before I had it, powdercoated all the running gear. It snapped the PAS belt a few weeks back and took the aux belts with it. Luckily I run the cambelt cover, otherwise it would have been bye bye engine. When the belts snapped it must have snapped a lug off the crank pulley

I was planning on selling it, fancied a change. Ive been looking at a few different cars but TBO, I cant find anything that I fancy. Plus it seems the car isnt worth what I thought. I was going to advertise it @ Ł6500 but Ive had comments thats its expensive for what it is. Id rather keep it than sell it for less than Ł6k. Thanks for the advice

 

Awesome, took me ages to track it down on mine and had me head in bits

Keep it bud, its a nice one.

 

Cant understand how it starts and drives ok on three lugs though? I would have thought it wouldnt start. Ive got the motivation back with it lately (well until this happened), so will probably just keep it.

 

I've got a pulley if you need one mate. Glad you've found what's wrong.

 

Edited, just seen that you've solved the problem


Luciano

 

That's the one Mike

Take the actual amp off the plate and clean the metal both sides. I also got a earth wire and used a connecter and earthed it straight to the battery. Haven't had any issues since

Also to add I changed the screws that held the plate to the wing as they were rusty as fuck (this might have caused it as they were fucked lol)

Glad you've found the problem chrisa3... Stupid lug hey

 

how much you wanting for it? is it a 2wd one ?

I know, I originally thought about the belt snapping, and never noticed anything missing

 

It's off my 4x4 saph mate, if it's any use you can have it for free

 

Thanks for the tips

 

Your a gent you have PM