My Car has failed its' Warrant Of Fitness (New Zealand) because the ABS light started flashing during the inspection...

I've read here that it can often just be dirty sensors etc. However, I really just want to deactivate the light as I know the brakes work fine.

Is there a quick way of doing this without taking the bulb out from behind the gauges/dashboard?

 

I read this in another thread:

'Well my ABS is deactivated at the moment and it feels just the same as before, only that the wheels lock up. I would imagine completely unplugging one of the wheel speed sensors would do the job.'

By simply unplugging one sensor, will that deactivate the whole ABS system (including the dash light)?

BTW, the problem is in a '90 Sapphire.

 

Removing a wheel sensor will NOT extinguish the light, it will do the complete opposite and illuminate the bulb as the ECU will not see the expected voltages generated. There is a way of doing it however you should find the cause, more than likely what you say as the car shoulden't pass the MOT as the ABS isn't working!

Martin

 

Something else I forgot (if it's relevant)...

The light has never been a problem for me. It comes on as normal when the Car first starts then goes off till the next time I start the Car.

It only started flashing when the guy inspecting it put it on the rollers to test the brakes.

 

Your best off Pming "Jon@work" off here as he knows the system inside out. It may be one of the brakes is binding etc and so that wheel is spinning slower than the rest that or a sensor problem I should think.

Martin

 

Thanks, Marty!

I'll try that now...

 

The light is on all the time now...does that give any more of an idea of what could be wrong?

The brake machine at the testing station read that all my brakes were working well with very little discrepancy between left and right stopping power.

 

If the light started flashing during a brake test, it could be either a pressure problem or fluid level. The light stays on when you turn the ignition be cause the pump starts, the light will go out when the system is upto pressure. The light can also be triggered by a low fluid level.

First thing to check would be the fluid level. if its fine and the light is still on, try and disconenct the two pin plug on the reservior cap and bridge the two pins with some wire and see of the light goes out. If it does, its a faulty level sensor.

After this, try jon@work, the guys a ABS system guru

 

Sorry, Chris...I forgot to mention that in my last post.

I had already P.M'd Jon and he said the same thing, check the fluid level first. I did that, but the light is still there (although the fluid was a little low).

Thanks alot for the info about two pin plug. I will go and try that now!

 

Don't Ford systems auto-test everytime you start the car, so there's no way of turning the bulb off without either fixing the fault, or taking the bulb out?

 

So has your light stayed off now then or is it back on. If i was you i would be doing a visual check of the abs sensors. The back ones corrode badly.

 

If you have a problem with the pump/ecu/a sensor is disconnected, the light will be on constantly.

If you have a dodgy sensor, thats still seen by the ecu, but gives the wrong reading whilst driving, then it'll only bring the light on over 5 or 10 mph (can't remember the exact figure lol)

 

Most ABS systems do, thats what the MOT part is about making sure the light extinguishes after it's done a diag.

Whats mentioned above is the sensor in the master cylinders that these have, by bridging the wiring connector, if the light extinguishes it shows the sensor is at fault.

The above being said if it were low fluid level it will also illuminate the fluid warning light as well, if ABS light is on solo it indicates a ABS system mal function.

Martin

 

Just give your rear sensors a check over.These were mine which were bringing the light on straight away when i started the car up.