Few 4x4 problems
#1
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Isle Of Wight
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Few 4x4 problems
car in question is running 6 long studs swedish inlet GT30 etc 430bhp set up by torque of the devil
the car is only used on track prob 3 times a year with the occasional road drive
1- when the car gets up to temp you turn the fans on for heat and it blows cold air??
He has had the thermostat removed which involved having a plate made up at the back of the housing which apparently needed doing. he had this done as on track he would do 2 laps and the thing would near boil.
also had 2 coolers behind the fog lights 1 for turbo water feed and 1 for oil.
2- the car hunts and occasionally revs run at 1500rpm at tickover when cold? I have been told to go over bits of the engine spraying brake cleaner so if its an air leak the revs will change when you spray over the leak?
3- He wants to run a recirc valve from turbo pipe to inlet pipe what is needed for this? the turbo pipe to airfilter is metal. what valve is recommended to go with GT30.
4- power on the car is good but lag is bad. it has BD16 inlet and exhaust cam. would a less exhaust cam give less lag. he is talking about getting shot of GT30 and getting T38. I went out with him the other day it ws a bit damp and put his foot down.. nothing nothing then comes on boost and just steps out worse than RWD
Thanks
the car is only used on track prob 3 times a year with the occasional road drive
1- when the car gets up to temp you turn the fans on for heat and it blows cold air??
He has had the thermostat removed which involved having a plate made up at the back of the housing which apparently needed doing. he had this done as on track he would do 2 laps and the thing would near boil.
also had 2 coolers behind the fog lights 1 for turbo water feed and 1 for oil.
2- the car hunts and occasionally revs run at 1500rpm at tickover when cold? I have been told to go over bits of the engine spraying brake cleaner so if its an air leak the revs will change when you spray over the leak?
3- He wants to run a recirc valve from turbo pipe to inlet pipe what is needed for this? the turbo pipe to airfilter is metal. what valve is recommended to go with GT30.
4- power on the car is good but lag is bad. it has BD16 inlet and exhaust cam. would a less exhaust cam give less lag. he is talking about getting shot of GT30 and getting T38. I went out with him the other day it ws a bit damp and put his foot down.. nothing nothing then comes on boost and just steps out worse than RWD
Thanks
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (11)
You definatley need a stat back in plus sounds like you have a underling probably if it boils after 2 laps.
You might have a blocked heater matrix if your not getting any warm air inside the cabin maybe even a Headgasket issue.
If the car hunts and runs high revs at idle when cold it might need the cold start map looking at and you may have an air leak too or could just be the big cams which really need to go
I think the BD16 exhaust cam is way too big and probably the inlet cam too if your only running 430 BHP.
Think you could probably get away with near standard cams for the spec, probably just a slightly bigger inlet.
Have you got a copy of the dyno print out?
Rich
You might have a blocked heater matrix if your not getting any warm air inside the cabin maybe even a Headgasket issue.
If the car hunts and runs high revs at idle when cold it might need the cold start map looking at and you may have an air leak too or could just be the big cams which really need to go
I think the BD16 exhaust cam is way too big and probably the inlet cam too if your only running 430 BHP.
Think you could probably get away with near standard cams for the spec, probably just a slightly bigger inlet.
Have you got a copy of the dyno print out?
Rich
Last edited by Sonic Boom; 26-12-2010 at 11:03 AM.
#4
Tbf the car needs to go somewhere to be looked at and sorted as its obviously got issues..
The overheating needs to be sorted first then the cold start issue/leak
Then change the ex cam and get cam timing sorted as its under powered and laggy so the worst combo possible!!
Dont change the gt30 for a t38 as the 30 will make better torque and come in quicker than the 38 with the right set up..
The gt30 will need to be the 3071.82 ex housing to work and with all the other issues sorted and mapped properly the car should do 450/450 easily with no lag!!!
If you need any help or info pm me or bell us
cheers danny
The overheating needs to be sorted first then the cold start issue/leak
Then change the ex cam and get cam timing sorted as its under powered and laggy so the worst combo possible!!
Dont change the gt30 for a t38 as the 30 will make better torque and come in quicker than the 38 with the right set up..
The gt30 will need to be the 3071.82 ex housing to work and with all the other issues sorted and mapped properly the car should do 450/450 easily with no lag!!!
If you need any help or info pm me or bell us
cheers danny
#5
Advanced PassionFord User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Isle Of Wight
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it was set at that power by TOTD as its still running standard box diff and clutch. he has had 3 track days out of it with that transmission. 3 more than I thought he would.. Danny I may get him to call you in the new year. where are you based
Trending Topics
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
1) The heater is a mirror of the cooling system, as you have no stat the car is most likely getting over cooled and so this is reflected in the heating, an easy way is to look at the temp gauge, although not very accurate on these it does give a rough indication.
2) The reason why people have said spray WD40 is because with the engine running if there is an air leak the revs will change, I personally do not think it is an air leak otherwise it would be be doing it consistently, I.E when hot as well. Almost certainly the ISCV or more specifically something telling it to raise revs like that.
Easiest way to tell is on a cold start unplug the ISCV connector, the revs will drop but if it stops hunting you know it's this. It is worth removing the ISCV and cleaning and lubeing with brake cleaner etc, thin oil as this is a very common fault not only on these but most ISCV not just Ford cars, then seeing if this cures it.
3) The standard recirc just connected back to the airbox which you most certainly do not have, maybe positioning the outlet from the DV next to the induction cone etc would work?
4) As said above.
Martin
2) The reason why people have said spray WD40 is because with the engine running if there is an air leak the revs will change, I personally do not think it is an air leak otherwise it would be be doing it consistently, I.E when hot as well. Almost certainly the ISCV or more specifically something telling it to raise revs like that.
Easiest way to tell is on a cold start unplug the ISCV connector, the revs will drop but if it stops hunting you know it's this. It is worth removing the ISCV and cleaning and lubeing with brake cleaner etc, thin oil as this is a very common fault not only on these but most ISCV not just Ford cars, then seeing if this cures it.
3) The standard recirc just connected back to the airbox which you most certainly do not have, maybe positioning the outlet from the DV next to the induction cone etc would work?
4) As said above.
Martin
#10
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
i'd address the cooling issues's 1st, just incase theres a problem and doing more damage,
the recirculating dump valve wont make any differance to how it runs,
the erratic idle is most likely idle control valve related,
stick with the gt30, they seem to do well with lag and power,
the more i see/hear of t38's, i think they're a bit over rated
quite often dont seem to make the power expected from them(i know theres diff specs for them)
the exhaust cam is defo to much for the power its running, defo worth changing that,
might be worth getting another inlet cam to, but if sorted properly it could make more power so worth keeping
the recirculating dump valve wont make any differance to how it runs,
the erratic idle is most likely idle control valve related,
stick with the gt30, they seem to do well with lag and power,
the more i see/hear of t38's, i think they're a bit over rated
quite often dont seem to make the power expected from them(i know theres diff specs for them)
the exhaust cam is defo to much for the power its running, defo worth changing that,
might be worth getting another inlet cam to, but if sorted properly it could make more power so worth keeping
#11
Anyhow doesnt really matter now as theyve left you with it the way it is and it needs a good going through..
Im in horsham west suussex as said above mate and your welcome to pm me or ring me anytime..01403263196 or 07960144497 to get me direct..
Tbh i dont think it would take long to sort all the little issues and as for engine spec its not far out and only really needs the ex cam changing and a few things checking etc..
If he wants to keep it 4x4 then i would suggest a strenghtining plate for the front diff a 2wd rear end and diff and i do know some one who has a pete doherty box for sale for just £800 iirc..
That lot above will allow him to run the full boost/power with no probs..
cheers danny
Last edited by Danny @ Enhanced Performance; 28-12-2010 at 03:43 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Adam Graham
Restorations, Rebuilds & Projects.
7
06-09-2015 06:04 AM