Fuel starvation problem
#1
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From: essex,
Fuel starvation problem
Hi my 2wd saph has been playing up recently as above , i first noticed it pulling from a slight gradiant and then turning left she coffed n spluttered nearly cut out and then settled itself when i pulled up , i thought maybe some crap was sucked up in the pump but has done it again turning left not even that agressive driving at all. The pump is,nt ancient but my thoughts are towards this . It has a new fuel filter also.
It now is showing other signs of something or a number of things that are not happy , i noticed today the cranking power was down , idle is erratic and now she barely wants to start. When she does start the engine has a miss/overfuel 'beat' and is taking 10-15 seconds to clear itself . This did just happen at a friends , pulled out on the main road turning left and she,s stuttering again then clearing .
At my MOT last month i was expecting to see a CO of around the 2.7-3.0 from my msd chip not tht long ago setup , but it read 1.5 with an apparently recently calibrated machine
I do have a new coolant sensor (ecu) to put in but i,m pretty sure though this is,nt causing starvation etc nor a weak cranking voltage. Weirdly enough also i have noticed my window is down on power too thought i could have a bad alternator , which is causing all the issues . Not sure here
any thoughts and recommendations on the symptoms? Also i,d like to know , how do i check the alternator itself for voltage testing . i,ve not done any diagnosis so far as been hectic last few days but will do some simple tests tommorow that i can do . Batterie was at 13.4 at idle last time i checked , fook knows wot the pump is now as i,ve been a naughty chappy n STILL not sorted re wire so car is definately un usable as from tonight!!!
many thanks
Mike
It now is showing other signs of something or a number of things that are not happy , i noticed today the cranking power was down , idle is erratic and now she barely wants to start. When she does start the engine has a miss/overfuel 'beat' and is taking 10-15 seconds to clear itself . This did just happen at a friends , pulled out on the main road turning left and she,s stuttering again then clearing .
At my MOT last month i was expecting to see a CO of around the 2.7-3.0 from my msd chip not tht long ago setup , but it read 1.5 with an apparently recently calibrated machine
I do have a new coolant sensor (ecu) to put in but i,m pretty sure though this is,nt causing starvation etc nor a weak cranking voltage. Weirdly enough also i have noticed my window is down on power too thought i could have a bad alternator , which is causing all the issues . Not sure here
any thoughts and recommendations on the symptoms? Also i,d like to know , how do i check the alternator itself for voltage testing . i,ve not done any diagnosis so far as been hectic last few days but will do some simple tests tommorow that i can do . Batterie was at 13.4 at idle last time i checked , fook knows wot the pump is now as i,ve been a naughty chappy n STILL not sorted re wire so car is definately un usable as from tonight!!!
many thanks
Mike
Last edited by opposite lock; 07-09-2010 at 11:04 PM.
#2
Hi,
I kept telling you to get your arse down for a free rewire, won't take long, can fix/check the other probs at same time.
If the CTS is more than say 3 years old I'd change it anyway, you'll most likely have 20 odds years worth of grit and crap floating about in the tank and occasionally a bit going through the pump, you can reverse the connections on the pump and run backwards for say 10 seconds you will actually hear it spit out any crap that's in there, if it's then ok you know it's this doing it.
1.5 % CO is a lot leaner than I needed when I ran a msd chip, mine didn't want to know below about 2.5%.
Obviously the slow cranking, slow windows is a different problem, the voltage can register good but still have a high resistance between battery and alternator due to wiring age, best bet is to run a seperate large diameter cable from the alt output B+ to the battery positive, cleaning up the earths as well for good measure.
Nothing wrong with the alt if showing 13.4V, but test under load with lecky stuff on lights heated screen etc so long as it doesn't drop below around 12.9V it's fine, most are better than this though.
Some of the slowness on the windows is the actual contacts in the switches due to age/corrosion/resistance these can be easily sorted with some de-oxit, immensely expensive, ie about £40 for 15ml!!
I've got some, the USAF(E) use it so mines free.
tabetha
I kept telling you to get your arse down for a free rewire, won't take long, can fix/check the other probs at same time.
If the CTS is more than say 3 years old I'd change it anyway, you'll most likely have 20 odds years worth of grit and crap floating about in the tank and occasionally a bit going through the pump, you can reverse the connections on the pump and run backwards for say 10 seconds you will actually hear it spit out any crap that's in there, if it's then ok you know it's this doing it.
1.5 % CO is a lot leaner than I needed when I ran a msd chip, mine didn't want to know below about 2.5%.
Obviously the slow cranking, slow windows is a different problem, the voltage can register good but still have a high resistance between battery and alternator due to wiring age, best bet is to run a seperate large diameter cable from the alt output B+ to the battery positive, cleaning up the earths as well for good measure.
Nothing wrong with the alt if showing 13.4V, but test under load with lecky stuff on lights heated screen etc so long as it doesn't drop below around 12.9V it's fine, most are better than this though.
Some of the slowness on the windows is the actual contacts in the switches due to age/corrosion/resistance these can be easily sorted with some de-oxit, immensely expensive, ie about £40 for 15ml!!
I've got some, the USAF(E) use it so mines free.
tabetha
#3
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PassionFord Post Troll
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From: essex,
Thanks Tabetha sorry i,ve not got up i have been way to busy of late to get up , was planning on coming up next week after my mums wedding in Bideford i,ll pm you asap matey !
The tank was new a couple of years ago(not o.e) and i have a new cts to put in , its at least 6 yrs old!!!, will give the cps a clean up just to make sure too
I,ll try with the pump runnin it backwards this afternoon hopefully this may sort itself
I just found it odd although entirely possible of course to inherit two different problems at the same time , the car has been practically fault free since feb 05 and is the first niggly issue like this i,ve had.
Thanks for the offer again mate i,ll be up soon for sure. If the car lets me of course.
What grade wire would be suitable for the alternator to + batterie terminal and i,m taking that you run alongside the original wiring ? thanks for the input once again
many thanks
Mike
The tank was new a couple of years ago(not o.e) and i have a new cts to put in , its at least 6 yrs old!!!, will give the cps a clean up just to make sure too
I,ll try with the pump runnin it backwards this afternoon hopefully this may sort itself
I just found it odd although entirely possible of course to inherit two different problems at the same time , the car has been practically fault free since feb 05 and is the first niggly issue like this i,ve had.
Thanks for the offer again mate i,ll be up soon for sure. If the car lets me of course.
What grade wire would be suitable for the alternator to + batterie terminal and i,m taking that you run alongside the original wiring ? thanks for the input once again
many thanks
Mike
Last edited by opposite lock; 08-09-2010 at 12:45 PM.
#4
I ran 2 lengths(taped together) of 28/030, and ran it alongside the std loom.
I've always had luck just spinning the pump backwards to get rid of the crap with me old tank, would be ok for around 3-4 weeks till more crap got picked up!!
tabetha
I've always had luck just spinning the pump backwards to get rid of the crap with me old tank, would be ok for around 3-4 weeks till more crap got picked up!!
tabetha
#5
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PassionFord Post Troll
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From: essex,
sorted it .... thanks Tabs i reversed the pump wires, powered the pump a few times and hey presto all is good again , switched over the cts and cleaned the cps too
cranking is back to normal now aswell and tested voltages it came up 13.4v on idle with nothing else on , its low as 12.15v with everything on at idle and no more than 12.50v at 2500 rpm so its definately needs the extra wiring to alternator by the looks of it
cheeRS chris job done!!
Mike
cranking is back to normal now aswell and tested voltages it came up 13.4v on idle with nothing else on , its low as 12.15v with everything on at idle and no more than 12.50v at 2500 rpm so its definately needs the extra wiring to alternator by the looks of it
cheeRS chris job done!!
Mike
Last edited by opposite lock; 08-09-2010 at 08:34 PM.
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#8
i was just looking through ebay and seen the sytec prefilter that fits infront of the 044...the explanation seemed pretty logical as when you spend £150 on a pump it may be worth the extra £40 to ensure the pump does not fook up the first time you use it as was the case when the original broke!
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