3dr Engine mount problem
#1
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3dr Engine mount problem
Since finishing the build on my 3dr i havent been happy with the way the car dirves, the car seems to vibrate - all through the car, under acceleration. The gearstick isnt vibrating at all, you can just hear and feel the vibration quite servere through the floor and shell of the car, i even think you can hear it vibrating??!
Had a look today at the engine mounts, saw that i have a bloody gap between the arm coming off the block and the rubber mount itself - on both sides??! I could easlily get my car key between the mount and the arm with room to spare!! Obviously this isnt right my questions are:
1) Would this gapping on the mounts be the source of the real servere vibration through the car under acceleration
2) If the engine hasnt sat down on its mounts whats holding it? It must be the gearbox?? If i jump on the nuts on each engine mount and tighten them surely i will only be forcing the mounts up or engine down under pressure, surely the engine should sit on those mounts without gapping without the need to be forced onto them?? So do i slacken the gearbox mount off and see if the engine drops down or something?? Am hoping this is an easy fix
Any help is as usual much appreciated guys!
Had a look today at the engine mounts, saw that i have a bloody gap between the arm coming off the block and the rubber mount itself - on both sides??! I could easlily get my car key between the mount and the arm with room to spare!! Obviously this isnt right my questions are:
1) Would this gapping on the mounts be the source of the real servere vibration through the car under acceleration
2) If the engine hasnt sat down on its mounts whats holding it? It must be the gearbox?? If i jump on the nuts on each engine mount and tighten them surely i will only be forcing the mounts up or engine down under pressure, surely the engine should sit on those mounts without gapping without the need to be forced onto them?? So do i slacken the gearbox mount off and see if the engine drops down or something?? Am hoping this is an easy fix
Any help is as usual much appreciated guys!
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I'll check all these out today, they all sound plausable!
If the sump is fouling on the cradle what would that indicate, as its a pukka cradle? Shouldnt really foul on it (am hoping its not)
The exhaust went on after the block was located, i'd be suprised if its forced the engine upwards, but i've learnt you never can rule anything out on cossie's so will check that too.
I forgot that mounts had locating dowels on! Will aslo have a look at that.
Would it be easier to remove one of the arms from the block (with a jack under the engine to have a good look?
Do you reckon it could casue the kind of vibration i'm experiencing? Anyone else had a similar vibration issues on a 3dr?
Ta!
If the sump is fouling on the cradle what would that indicate, as its a pukka cradle? Shouldnt really foul on it (am hoping its not)
The exhaust went on after the block was located, i'd be suprised if its forced the engine upwards, but i've learnt you never can rule anything out on cossie's so will check that too.
I forgot that mounts had locating dowels on! Will aslo have a look at that.
Would it be easier to remove one of the arms from the block (with a jack under the engine to have a good look?
Do you reckon it could casue the kind of vibration i'm experiencing? Anyone else had a similar vibration issues on a 3dr?
Ta!
#6
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Each mount does indeed have mounting/locating pins/dowels, so just jack engine with a block of wood between sump/jack then simply loosen the nuts either end of the mount and rotate if need to align the pins, they are there to unsure people don't fit the mounts upside down, but if resting on a pin due to not being aligned it won't give this vibration, there is normally a gap between the arm and mount anyway.
Is the vibration in every gear ?, sounds more like the gearbox to me, good/new mounts will keep it to a minimum though.
tabetha
Is the vibration in every gear ?, sounds more like the gearbox to me, good/new mounts will keep it to a minimum though.
tabetha
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Each mount does indeed have mounting/locating pins/dowels, so just jack engine with a block of wood between sump/jack then simply loosen the nuts either end of the mount and rotate if need to align the pins, they are there to unsure people don't fit the mounts upside down, but if resting on a pin due to not being aligned it won't give this vibration, there is normally a gap between the arm and mount anyway.
Is the vibration in every gear ?, sounds more like the gearbox to me, good/new mounts will keep it to a minimum though.
tabetha
Is the vibration in every gear ?, sounds more like the gearbox to me, good/new mounts will keep it to a minimum though.
tabetha
How big is the gap between the arm and mount meant to be mate? I can get my key all the way round, The nut on top has only gone down to allow about 4 threads sticking through the top?
To be honest my gearbox is questionable, it really whines in every gear appart from 4th, it functions great mind, goes into gear real smooth even reverse! but the noise it makes sounds like a straight cut box?? the gearstick itself doesnt vibrate at all though when driving, i just feel it through the floors/shell of the car under harsh revs. Its definately not normal cause its quite loud too, you cant hear yourself think!
Its that bad its stopping me accelerating too much because it just feels all worng!! Got passed by a golf Diesel yesterday and the lad driving it loved every minute, i wasnt going to risk my pride and joy though the way it is!
Could the box be the issue??
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#8
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That's how the mounts are, the box is the noise/vibration maker, just be aware that when they go, it's pretty instant so might want to be near home, unless you are in rac aa etc, as it will leave you with zero drive, I've been there with many a box.
If you have it repaired now you will save a lot of money, too much bearing wear will allow the teeth to be eaten, bumping the price up enormously for a recon.
tabetha
If you have it repaired now you will save a lot of money, too much bearing wear will allow the teeth to be eaten, bumping the price up enormously for a recon.
tabetha
#9
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Two mad things I have had happen that might be worth checking.
Turbo mount siezed and I was convinced from the buzzing it was from the gearstick. If it were not for a local expert Geoff Dewitt I would never have made that connection.
Even wierder - and took about a year to suss out... starter motor came ever so slightly loose and although it started the car fine enough the shaft was bending a little more each time and making a buzzing racket. Again I thought it was the box.
You never know with cossies!!!
Turbo mount siezed and I was convinced from the buzzing it was from the gearstick. If it were not for a local expert Geoff Dewitt I would never have made that connection.
Even wierder - and took about a year to suss out... starter motor came ever so slightly loose and although it started the car fine enough the shaft was bending a little more each time and making a buzzing racket. Again I thought it was the box.
You never know with cossies!!!
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The gearbox was the only unknown on the car really. I bought it at face value - i actually believed the guy. He reckoned it was recently overhauled. the outsude casing and drain plug etc were all immaculate, you could have eaten your dinner off it, it was that clean, so too was the bellhousing etc so i took the gamble and beleived it was pukka.
Fitted it to the car and it was whining, even on tick over, tried gear oil and molyslip to see if it went any quieter, tried new release bearing, no joy! when driving its just like a straight cut box appart from 4th gear which is normal, so am assuming its internal to the box and i was ripped off!!
How much does an overhaul cost these days??
Fitted it to the car and it was whining, even on tick over, tried gear oil and molyslip to see if it went any quieter, tried new release bearing, no joy! when driving its just like a straight cut box appart from 4th gear which is normal, so am assuming its internal to the box and i was ripped off!!
How much does an overhaul cost these days??
#11
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Don't ever put moly slip in a gearbox, it's too good at friction reduction, so the synchros have a hard time doing thier job, result bad slow changes, manual boxes actually need a certain amount of friction for synchro's to work well, samne reason I don't run atf in them.
Recon should be Ł300 - Ł400.
tabetha
Recon should be Ł300 - Ł400.
tabetha
#13
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Don't ever put moly slip in a gearbox, it's too good at friction reduction, so the synchros have a hard time doing thier job, result bad slow changes, manual boxes actually need a certain amount of friction for synchro's to work well, samne reason I don't run atf in them.
Recon should be Ł300 - Ł400.
tabetha
Recon should be Ł300 - Ł400.
tabetha
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