cossieDavedree

Hello I've spent about 3 hours trying to get my crank pulley bolt off.
The engine is on a stand, Flywheel off. I've used two flywheel bolts and locked a strong metal rod between the two bolts and my engine stand.

Theres no movement from locking it like this so its better than locking the flywheel. I've heated and tapped the bolt head and pulley for over an hour and still with a long lever bar it will not budge at all... I think someone has loctited it.

I've tried everything I can think of to crack the bolt off.
I cant gain access to the last 10mm bolt which holds the oil seal housing on otherwise i could lift the crank out then.

I havent tried a high airGun, as i dont have one.

Anyone had this experience... I know your meant to lock it in the flywheel, but even if i did it wouldnt help my problem...

ta dave

foreigneRS

i would hope that somebody has loctited it as it is meant to be.

easy - just get yourself a £20 12V impact wrench and it will come out easily. the sort that winds up a weight inside it and then whacks the bolt undone with a jolt.

argos catalogue number 038/2766



http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...7C10198728.htm

tabetha

I have never loctited one yet, and loctite would not account for some numpty massively overtightening it as a lot do, std setting is fine.
You would be better off using shock force, put on lever/socket etc take up slack then repeated whacks with a hammer on lever, this will provide shock force which is a lot more effective,(and why impact guns use this principle), it will take a few mins but will work.
When reassembling just use std torque setting.
tabetha

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

I had a whale of a time getting mine off. It wasn't loctited, but it was effing tight! Did what the Haynes comic suggests for the pinto - lock it in top gear, and get someone to stand hard on the brakes. With much grunting, it turned, and best of all, went back in again.

cossieDavedree

i FINally did it,, I heated the pulley and the bolt for about 5 mins,
Whilst i held the engine level, my friend used a 3 foot long bar..


Pretty damn good feeling when it moved .

cossieDavedree

foreigne rs i was gonna get one of them lol.

foreigneRS

you still should get one of them for next time. it can be done in car with one of those easily if the rad is removed

cossieDavedree

the reason I took engine out was to sort out my slight rear of sump oil leak,,
I thought it was rear oil seal, but nope it was sump gasket at the back, I bought a new rear seal and i planned to paint the block anyway with engine out..
Once I got the engine on the stand I took sump off and then main cap number 5 as i find it easier to put the new seal in.
It was when i took number 5 off I found this..




Nurburg caused this me thinks.. besides the engine has done 40k on a julian godfrey full rebuild 10 years ago.
Strangely my low oil pressure light never came on,, and prior to me taking engine out the engine ran spot on.
Me and Cosworth main bearings just dont get on.. hence my post a year ago

Luckily its just a 'polish crank and new shells'. thank god i took the main cap off.

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

Phew - close call eh?

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Oil pressure light only comes on after the engine's shit itself 7psi I this.

Thats exactly how I did mine.