Focus 2009 1.6 timing belt - threadlock on bolts?
24-11-2017, 07:43 AM
#1
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: over here
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Focus 2009 1.6 timing belt - threadlock on bolts?
Hi,
i'm doing the timing belt on my Focus (100hp variant) - Haynes and ETIS mentions nothing about it,
but do you folk apply loctite ( i have the blue one) on crankshaft, waterpump, waterpump pulley and tensioner bolts?
The torque for crankshaft bolt is 40Nm (29,5 lb ft) + 90° ... seems a little low for a keyless design?
Thanks a bunch!
i'm doing the timing belt on my Focus (100hp variant) - Haynes and ETIS mentions nothing about it,
but do you folk apply loctite ( i have the blue one) on crankshaft, waterpump, waterpump pulley and tensioner bolts?
The torque for crankshaft bolt is 40Nm (29,5 lb ft) + 90° ... seems a little low for a keyless design?
Thanks a bunch!
24-11-2017, 08:32 AM
#2
PassionFord Post Troll
Personally i wouldnt use it, but i would run a tap down the threads and use new bolts where possible.
Its not going to improve the torque of the bolt so if thats the book value then its obviously good enough (i agree it seems low!)
Its not going to improve the torque of the bolt so if thats the book value then its obviously good enough (i agree it seems low!)
24-11-2017, 09:19 AM
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
I've put a drop of loctite on the crank pulley bolt in the past, it will feel tight when you are giving it the 90 degree angle torque. You should be removing the starter motor and locking the flywheel with the appropriate special tool when loosening and tightening the crank bolt.
Waterpump should run off the auxiliary belt .
Waterpump should run off the auxiliary belt .
24-11-2017, 09:40 AM
#4
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: over here
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just removed the starter and i'm about to lock the flywheel.
what about other bolts and loctite? i've read too much can mess up the torque measurement,
but then one guy had problems with having the crank bolt loosen up after engine start - he did it 3 times, and was positive of getting the 40nm + 90° right...:/
Yes, waterpump runs off the auxiliary belt, but you have to remove it to be able to remove the timing belt upper cover.
what about other bolts and loctite? i've read too much can mess up the torque measurement,
but then one guy had problems with having the crank bolt loosen up after engine start - he did it 3 times, and was positive of getting the 40nm + 90° right...:/
Yes, waterpump runs off the auxiliary belt, but you have to remove it to be able to remove the timing belt upper cover.
24-11-2017, 06:18 PM
#6
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: over here
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes, only the pulley (type before think i did)...
what about copper paste to spark plugs, a small amount - put some on then wipe down into thread?
I had to use a breaker bar to get one plug out - damn the mofo who changed the plugs before... there was one or two sharp metal shavings around the hole, i carefully picked them up with a neodim magnet. The thread on the plugs is magnetic too, so i'm not sure where the shavings came form? i'll post a picture soon. it's a mean looking spike, must have been 5mm long.
[(admin, should i post this into a new thread or is it ok here?)]
should i vacuum the plug hole while turning the crank? Don't have a magnetic pickup, just a bare magnet, so i won't be poking inside i guess..
what about copper paste to spark plugs, a small amount - put some on then wipe down into thread?
I had to use a breaker bar to get one plug out - damn the mofo who changed the plugs before... there was one or two sharp metal shavings around the hole, i carefully picked them up with a neodim magnet. The thread on the plugs is magnetic too, so i'm not sure where the shavings came form? i'll post a picture soon. it's a mean looking spike, must have been 5mm long.
[(admin, should i post this into a new thread or is it ok here?)]
should i vacuum the plug hole while turning the crank? Don't have a magnetic pickup, just a bare magnet, so i won't be poking inside i guess..
Trending Topics
24-11-2017, 09:58 PM
#8
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: over here
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
one more thing; is it necessary to execute the 90° turn in one move? i don't think i have enough clearance and i'm not sure i can raise the car enough with what i've got...
29-11-2017, 09:43 AM
#10
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: over here
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so i tightened the crank bolt - i did put the smallest possible drop loctite blue that i could squeeze out, at 3/4 of the length of the bolt and smeared it all around a couple of threads.
I then tightened to 40Nm, which felt surprisingly easy - i hope my torque wrench is accurate enough.
But when doing the 90° turn, i have this bad feeling i might have overtorqued it.
it manage to get it to like 89° in 3 turns (last one with foot on breaker bar - 60cm ~23", 1/2"), and my both hands pulling on the crankshaft sprocket holding tool. Then i went one more time (i had to use my foot again), because i wanted that ˛$%&/%& 1° degree (ok, maybe 2-3°, but not more)- force was building up, but when it moved, i THINK i felt it being a bit easier than the last push...
...mind i did it with my foot, so not exactly sure, maybe muscles tricked me.
I stopped immediately after "feeling" it, i checked the markings on the bolt&pulley, and it moved 1mm, like 2-3°max.
Could have i overtorqued the bolts beyond its limit with this small movement? It's a Ford OEM bolt, a mechanic told me that aftermarket one can tear even BEFORE reaching the specs, he's had cases like that.
Static friction is bigger than kinetic friction...so to overcome the force needed for that last degrees, was bigger than when doing in a contionus move...
I stupidly went to reassemble everything, thinking lala, it's fine, but that feeling has creeped behind me and i'm not sure wether to put the starter in and risk ruining the engine,
or try to get the bolt out and risk snapping it...
How close is the manufacturers torque/angle spec to the definite "dead" limit of the bolt? like.. 100% or does it have any tolerance for overtorquing situation (t-wrench tolerances, angle gauge tolerances, etc)...
Help appreciated more than ever.
I then tightened to 40Nm, which felt surprisingly easy - i hope my torque wrench is accurate enough.
But when doing the 90° turn, i have this bad feeling i might have overtorqued it.
it manage to get it to like 89° in 3 turns (last one with foot on breaker bar - 60cm ~23", 1/2"), and my both hands pulling on the crankshaft sprocket holding tool. Then i went one more time (i had to use my foot again), because i wanted that ˛$%&/%& 1° degree (ok, maybe 2-3°, but not more)- force was building up, but when it moved, i THINK i felt it being a bit easier than the last push...
...mind i did it with my foot, so not exactly sure, maybe muscles tricked me.
I stopped immediately after "feeling" it, i checked the markings on the bolt&pulley, and it moved 1mm, like 2-3°max.
Could have i overtorqued the bolts beyond its limit with this small movement? It's a Ford OEM bolt, a mechanic told me that aftermarket one can tear even BEFORE reaching the specs, he's had cases like that.
Static friction is bigger than kinetic friction...so to overcome the force needed for that last degrees, was bigger than when doing in a contionus move...
I stupidly went to reassemble everything, thinking lala, it's fine, but that feeling has creeped behind me and i'm not sure wether to put the starter in and risk ruining the engine,
or try to get the bolt out and risk snapping it...
How close is the manufacturers torque/angle spec to the definite "dead" limit of the bolt? like.. 100% or does it have any tolerance for overtorquing situation (t-wrench tolerances, angle gauge tolerances, etc)...
Help appreciated more than ever.
29-11-2017, 09:44 AM
#11
Virgin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: over here
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so i tightened the crank bolt - i did put the smallest possible drop loctite blue that i could squeeze out, at 3/4 of the length of the bolt and smeared it all around a couple of threads.
I then tightened to 40Nm, which felt surprisingly easy - i hope my torque wrench is accurate enough.
But when doing the 90° turn, i have this bad feeling i might have overtorqued it.
it manage to get it to like 89° in 3 turns (last one with foot on breaker bar - 60cm ~23", 1/2"), and my both hands pulling on the crankshaft sprocket holding tool. Then i went one more time (i had to use my foot again), because i wanted that ˛$%&/%& 1° degree (ok, maybe 2-3°, but not more)- force was building up, but when it moved, i THINK i felt it being a bit easier than the last push...
...mind i did it with my foot, so not exactly sure, maybe muscles tricked me.
I stopped immediately after "feeling" it, i checked the markings on the bolt&pulley, and it moved 1mm, like 2-3°max.
Could have i overtorqued the bolts beyond its limit with this small movement? It's a Ford OEM bolt, a mechanic told me that aftermarket one can tear even BEFORE reaching the specs, he's had cases like that.
Static friction is bigger than kinetic friction...so to overcome the force needed for that last degrees, was bigger than when doing in a contionus move...
I stupidly went to reassemble everything, thinking lala, it's fine, but that feeling has creeped behind me and i'm not sure wether to put the starter in and risk ruining the engine,
or try to get the bolt out and risk snapping it...
How close is the manufacturers torque/angle spec to the definite "dead" limit of the bolt? like.. 100% or does it have any tolerance for overtorquing situation (t-wrench tolerances, angle gauge tolerances, etc)...
Help appreciated more than ever.
I then tightened to 40Nm, which felt surprisingly easy - i hope my torque wrench is accurate enough.
But when doing the 90° turn, i have this bad feeling i might have overtorqued it.
it manage to get it to like 89° in 3 turns (last one with foot on breaker bar - 60cm ~23", 1/2"), and my both hands pulling on the crankshaft sprocket holding tool. Then i went one more time (i had to use my foot again), because i wanted that ˛$%&/%& 1° degree (ok, maybe 2-3°, but not more)- force was building up, but when it moved, i THINK i felt it being a bit easier than the last push...
...mind i did it with my foot, so not exactly sure, maybe muscles tricked me.
I stopped immediately after "feeling" it, i checked the markings on the bolt&pulley, and it moved 1mm, like 2-3°max.
Could have i overtorqued the bolts beyond its limit with this small movement? It's a Ford OEM bolt, a mechanic told me that aftermarket one can tear even BEFORE reaching the specs, he's had cases like that.
Static friction is bigger than kinetic friction...so to overcome the force needed for that last degrees, was bigger than when doing in a contionus move...
I stupidly went to reassemble everything, thinking lala, it's fine, but that feeling has creeped behind me and i'm not sure wether to put the starter in and risk ruining the engine,
or try to get the bolt out and risk snapping it...
How close is the manufacturers torque/angle spec to the definite "dead" limit of the bolt? like.. 100% or does it have any tolerance for overtorquing situation (t-wrench tolerances, angle gauge tolerances, etc)...
Help appreciated more than ever.