Ok my ST engine has a problem. Basically when i give it beans it judders around the 3500-4000 rev mark. when i rev the car at a stand still it seems to rev fine. however it wont go past 6000 revs. Im led to believe that this is the imrc? Is there a way to check so i dont go throwing money where its not needed?

 

Fuel pumps always pack in on these, certainly sounds like your issue.

 

Fuel pump? Would that stop it revving past 6k? thanks

 

Yes, as it isn't supplying enough fuel. There's a few threads on this, high RPM power loss and engine stutter and after the basics have been checked like plugs, leads etc it is always the fuel pump that is at fault.

Definately get a second opinion by the way of a fuel pressure test first though, as the pumps aren't cheap!

 

when we say aren't cheap what are we looking at? got any links to any? they dont need coding or anything do they? thanks

 

No they are a straight swap but you have to drop the tank to get to them, there is no inspection cover in the car to get at the pump. Fuel delivery a bit different on the ST170, the ECU controls the pump so that the pump regulates the fuel pressure, there is no pressure regulator on the fuel rail or return back to the tank

 

An what about the programming? no messing around going to ford? Also can dodgy leads cause these kinda problems? It is running on all four but i dont know how old the leads are?

 

The leads are very good quality, the Coils do fail though and its quite common so swap the coil first if you suspect ignition problems, no programming required for the pump, just buy a new one and swap it

 

try fuel filter first for a cheap fix,most people forget to change these on a sevice and can clog

 

its been fully serviced including fuel filter and it was dirty. Are the coils all the same? can i grab the one of my 1.6 to test it? had a look an it looks the same. Just mega skint with crimbo coming so dont wanna pay for anything and it not fix it.

 

How do i know which fuel pump to look at?

I found this one:
http://pumabuild.com/pumacat/product...roducts_id=142

But would these ones work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYTEC-180l...item2316a63357

 

You need an ST170 fuel pump, either new or from a breakers. They are one piece with the fuel level sender and as said previously, there is no return and it's controlled directly by the ECU. Get the fuel pressure cheked for low pressure at high rpm first before you go wasting your cash on something that may not be your fault.

 

Ok i know ive been banging on and i know you said its prob the fuel pump but what would a dodgy coilpack/leads cause? Goes like a kangaroo once over 3500rpm.

 

Does the engine management light come on?

If you got a coil pack/leads problem it normally does.

 

Could be either, change coil pack first as its cheaper, borrow a coil pack off some one to test it, takes 5 mins to swap

 

engine light doesnt come on and never has been while ive had this problem. Its not as bad now the tank has less fuel in. just dropped under half way

 

Fuel pump it is then

 

yeah ive tryed all of the above and im getting the same problem can anyone help please thanks

 

ive got another car to swap parts with now so ill post back soon

 

I had this problem and I went to LVW SENARS for a new coil pack,when the bloke typed it into his screen it came up with the warning' Ask the customer has the ECU replaced/re-set before sale' or something like that.
J

 

I had the same problem. It turned out to be the fuel pump control module under the rear seat on the drivers side. cost £60 from ford. Get someone with a DECENT diag to check it for you.

 

cheers for that ill try that one on mon let you no lol

 

Worth mentioning that the driver module needs coding to the car IIRC

 

so where would you get it done? cheers pal

 

ok so i had the coilpack and leads changed and this made my car run better. For around 2-3 days max. then i got engine light and had it plugged in and was p1518 that was the imrc so ive had it changed out for a known working one and problem has got better but not i have a idle rev problem. If i take it out of gear whilst moving it revs itself to aroun 4-5k revs. if i put my clutch down it drops to aroun 11-1500 revs. when i start the car cold its idle is at 2k and drops to around 1100 lowest.

any ideas?

 

Hi Guys,

Ive got the ST170 engine in my Mev Rocket and im having similar issues high RPM hesitation with no engine light or faults logged on the ECU.
The issues only happen when the car is in motion but are fine when stationary and revs up to the limiter.
I changed the coil first and the IMRC appears to be working fine.

Does anyone know of any replacement or uprated pumps that i can just change in the sender unit rather than changing the whole thing at a ford price of around £240!

Was looking at something like:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=p5197.c0.m619

Cheers

 

Just a small update, looks like replacing the fuel pump has done the trick hello rev limiter!

 

Hmmm,good to hear. I replaced my pump but the problem still persists
J

 

Can anyone confirm if the imrc is supposed to pull straight away at startup? i thought it was meant to pull after a certain rev

 

did you buy the pump from the ebay link?

 

Hi,

Nah I ended up getting a nearly new OEM part from eBay, sender and pump.

The uprated ones don't seem to fit the ST sender.

Ade

 

hi the imrc should activate around 4500rpm, tic over should be 800 -/+50 up to 1200 cold,

does the st have a throttle sensor /potentiometer as i had this play up on on my escort and only affected certain revs,

the st can be funny with cheep plugs,? check for VAX leaks, and air sensors if you have changed the plugs were the old ones dirty? could be sign of probs,

ive heard on another sight that the ecu can loose its program, or may nead resetting (to reset unplug the battery for 40min, to reprogram is specialist/ford job,
im also told that theres a sensor on the clutch peddle that puts the ecu into shift mode if this is playing up can affect the engine running,
also worth checking earths and connections

(at the moment my cars not well but will live for now, my imrc is stuck open, i get a loss of power round 2000rpm when cold, clutch seems slow to diss-engage (worst for second gear i have to put clutch down n wait a second or 3 before selecting gear or i get crunch, and the air-con clutch died,) not looked into these to much as every time im free it rains, any ideas welcom

 

Well after 2 years driving my zetec which i must say never let me down once, but 2 wek ago i bought the car i have been looking for a wile not the MK1 ST170 well what can i say about the change Night and Day unbelevable power in every gear totally happy 2002 silver just over 20,000 on clock due to engine change through came belt brake, car solid really feels like driving a 3 year old car so happy I made the change

 

Hi can anyone help i have just got a MK1 Focas ST170 02 Reg, and wanted to put a Top Strut Brace on to it, but after checking it seems they wont fit due to the Air-Filter Box that are fitted, Does anyone know if you can buy them some were to fit with standard Air-Box fitted or do i have to go down the road of fitting a after market conned filter??, also you can get Bottom Strut Brace For the Focas ST 170, front bottom and rear strut barces does anyone have them fitted??, are they any good?? wait to hear back cheers folks

 

Richie how do you get the picture of you car on the thread???

 

is this the one that was on ebay with vented bonnet?? up newcastle area if i remember right. sounds like this one as i was interested in it but too far for me.

 

Yes mate up Newcastle and yes vented bonnet well looked after car spot on inside drives like a 3 year old as Engine was replaced with one with 20,000 miles due to camebelt falure to old one so nearly new car and solid mongoose manifold, full stainless steel exhaust, all vemted and grooved brakes well you will know if you read about it anyway nice motor

 

yes it looked a very nice car. i seen it listed 3 times and no one was interested till you bought it.

first time i seen it it was starting bid of 1700 but got no bids. i sent offer of 1250 but declined saying he take 1500.
i left it there for that as it would have cost me about 300 getting up there and back.
relisted it 1450 starting with 1700 buy it now, no bids.

then it went on and you were obviously only bidder for 1350 ish if my memory is correct.
by then i had bought one but my mate was interested in it and was hoping no one would but it so he could put lower offer in but you had it lol.

 

Hi yes i saw it the guy said about the offers he said he got a bid at 2000 but fell through then put it on at what i saw it at 1700 or bid 1300 i bid 1300 plus he bought 6 months road tax £146 so really stole car but well worth the money tell your mate he totally missed out mate

 

sounds a good one.you should put some pics up of it in the project section.

click mine in my sig if your interested in a view.