scott_j166

Hello can anybody help a done a search for this there but hasn't helped much and a have tried a few things today like fix the blue wire going to alternator and tried another set of clocks and still doing it. Will start from the beginning was out in the car and battery light came on,rev counter stopped working so did the temp gauge,fuel computer so took alternator off took it to get fixed. The place put it on there machine and he said it was fine but the regulator is bad for going so got him to put a new 1 on and fitted the alternator back on and still doing the same,also a have 6 extra gauges like boost pressure,oil pressure,oil temp on top of the dash they are still working but the other 3 are water temp,rpm,volts and they don't work. Cheers

mgtkr1

wires shorting. i had the same problem. rear lightand dash light fuse blowing at the same time. turned out to be wires touching that shouldnt after pissing around with gauges. werer are your gauges mounted?

scott_j166

The top 3 are just above the centre heater vents and the 3 that aren't working are in the centre console just below the ashtray,gauges were fitted before a got the car

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

First off it has nothing to do with the charging! Something is causing a short in that circuit, I.e. wiring or water in the light unit, it's best to start looking at the latter first.

Re the instruments, I suspect the fuse protecting them to be bad (I don't know Escorts but suspect this to be 10A) have you checked this? The additional gauges are most likely on the same circuit, thus not working.

Martin

mgtkr1

couldnt have put it better myself. has it been this way for as long as youve had the car?
this could help determine wether itsbadly fitted gauges/wiring fault or water ingress

slammedorion

If the brake light fuse pops, the car will stop charging...
Check up near the pedal switch...
I've done it before managed to trap switch wires when putting column back in...

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

That means the cluster is on the same circuit, therefore finding the cause, rectifying it and then replacing the fuse will cure all the problems, it won't stop the charging period though.

It's strange it's done like this though, really the lights should be on an independant circuit.

OP, as said have those gauges always been there or have you just fitted them?

Martin

slammedorion

I had the issue last year, couldn't believe how much was run off that fuse...

Lost brake lights, clocks, because clocks went there was no charging...
I put it the garage after a show, bought it back out with all this going on!!!
My head was battered lol...

scott_j166

Spent today on it and still no joy! Gauges have always been in the car,looked at few things today and changed the alternator to make sure and still the same. Yesterday it would only pop the fuse when cranking and sometimes as soon as the ignition lights came on and today it done it every time the ignition lights were about to come on! Think a will just need to take the full wiring loom out it

Forgot to say soon as a give it a good rev the battery light comes on and stays on but its charging

Miller 3

iTrader: (4)

Make sure it has the right bulbs fitted and disconect the brake light switch as that could be at fault.

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Disconnect the aftermarket gauges. I bet they are what's causing your issue.

RSmark84

Positive the gauges using the red wire for the stereo/head unit.

No problems for me, i've done my voltmeter gauge there. I've even got a switched fan running from there aswell.( better there than direct battery incase i forget to turn the switch off)

scott_j166

Disconnected the brake light switch today and was still doing it,was thinking about the gauges but they were fitted before a got the car are they bad for breaking?

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Depends what retard fitted them. All it would take is one of the live wires that illuminate the back lights or similar to have been rubbing away on a bit of metal over the years to have finally broken through the insulation, thus now shorting out.

scott_j166

They weren't fitted the best as months ago a fitted a new dash to it and noticed they could be done better so a fixed them new connectors and taped them up when changing the dash,cheers everybody for all the help any other ideas on what it could be before a take the dash and loom out?

mgtkr1

ill wager its a connector on the gauges thats come adrift and is shorting

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Your going too deep, it's unlikely to be the loom itself!

You need to work systematically, i.e. look toward the said gauges first and then disconnect the instrument cluster etc.

Something else that has come to light as well (no pun intended) is that you say you have changed the dash, therefore you want to check you haven't trapped any wires in the process of fitting it!

As I said originally, it has nothing to do with charging!

Martin

scott_j166

Cheers guys for the help a haven't looked at it today but will tomorrow and a fitted the dash months ago and its been fine until now lol

slammedorion

Have you disconnected your pedal switch?

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...39232CC706.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...390F93F021.jpg

A link to my thread with faults due to one trapped wire...

https://passionford.com/forum/restor...-orion-18.html

scott_j166

Yes had it disconnected yesterday and didnt make a difference,going to disconnect my aftermarket gauges tomorrow see if that works and if it doesnt a will take the dash back out it to check the loom

slammedorion

You'll find it, stick with it...
It's a nightmare when you get a issue like this...
There only a basic thing to work on...