anvini

Hi

I have remove the ABS system of the car and now I´m trying to make new copper lines but the tool I had buy for do the flare of the copper lines maybe is not the right one to match the output of the Brake master cylinder and the copper lines, I can´t make the same flare as the original brake pipes.
Size of new Copper lines are 3/16" and nuts are m10x100 for one output and m12x100 for the other output of brake master cylinder.

That is the flaring tood I had buy:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-378...item484ea3e4bf

Anyone know which is the right tool I must buy for flare the brake lines??
Pleasesss, Any advice are welcome, need to finish flaring to run the car out of garage

Many thanks in advance.
CheeRS

RUBY123

iTrader: (2)

The tool you have listed will do the both flares you need

Ben26

just use the pipes from a non ABS escort, that's what I done on my fiesta , saves fucking round

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

give me 10 min I will post pics of how too

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

1st off you use these tools for these flairs;


then when you do a double fare the pipe needs to stick out this much,

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

DO NOT FORGET TO FIT FITTINGS BEFORE YOU FLARE!!!!






Just follow the pictures and you be good bud!

Red_bull

Wow that is some decent help!

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

The 1st flare is a double flare the 2nd is a bubble flare

anvini

Hi mate!!
Many thanks for the pics....
That´s the same process I had done to flaring the lines but the final result is not what dessired, maybe my tool is a crap??
My 3/16" flare die is different as yours:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Spa...item5ae0f3a696

This is the original brake tube flare that goes to the Master cylinder output:



And this is my best flaring finish:



And after put the flare and nut on the brake master cylinder output and tighten it, I get a flat flare finish that maybe get a leakage.





I had search on the web and found interesting tools and info to make better bubble flaring:
DIN FLARE - SAE FLARE

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

NO bud as I pm'd you you have done it right when you tighten it it goes flat but from you pic it looks like you didn't have it sticking through you vice enough before you bubble flared it

botters

iTrader: (2)

also make sure you cut the pipe very very straights and deburr it thouroughly to get a neat symetrical finish

anvini

Yes, mate I did stick the pipe through the vice has hard as I could, the pipe did not move through the vice when I flared it.
I have just know that my brake tube is Cupro-Nickel not Copper, so maybe the tool is not hard enough to make a good bubble flare??
Also, when I tight the nut and pipe to the brake master cylinder, the hole of the flared pipe became smaller and I had to drill it to increase it to original size.......

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

Yes the drillin part is correct but what i mean is before you clamped it. For a bubble flare it needs about 5-6mm stcking throughalso the pipe you need is the one you have copper/nickel. These tools are for all metal pipes

anvini

Yeah mate, drilling before clamp would be the normal procedure and with more sense if there is excess of material in the hole, but why the hole became smaller when I clamp it,......my head is smoking through my ears trying to find what is the problem or what i´m doing wrong...
I left 5-6mm of pipe through the vice, same as flare die thickness, to make the bubble flare, the same as you said.

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

I also have that draper kit aswell asthe one i used both work ok exactly the same for me i have no prefference on either kit! You sometimes have to drill the hole after you have flared it! Are you 100% using the correct hole

anvini

So my kit must work ok as yours..........
I used the 3/16" hole in the vice....
Wil try to do my best flare and post pics to comment....

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

Ok bud!

Gadget

How comes you are making new brake lines just because you've removed the abs though?
You only need to change one end from the Male 13mm x 1mm thread to a Male10mm x 1mm thread on the short joiner pipe from the block by the gearlinkage!
That way it keeps all the standard green ford lines and looks factory!

Ben26

Fuck the shit rear compinsators off as well yea.

anvini

Hi

Some update to the post....

I have just buy another hand tool to flare the brake lines as my DRAPER one is a crap tool.

I used the POWERHAND Hand tool flaring DIN bought from UKPROTOOLS on Ebay to do "Bubble Single DIN flare"
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe...item232b90e8bb

It makes a good finish flare at first time......

Rsturbo james

that link you put up mate is that the correct ford escort rs turbo size

anvini

yeah mate!! 4.75mm- 3/16" brake pipe size (DIN single Flare)

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

The best way to remove the ABS:-

Fit all the parts from a non ABS escort of any type using a 23 rating master cylinder.
This way you will get rid of the rear compensators and use the correct type fitted to the front drivers side inner wing under the engine mount.

Parts you need.
1. 6x brake lines in total (Hard metal std ford) 2 will go straight to the front brakes. 2 will go to the front compensators. Then the last 2 will exit the compensators to the rear calipers/drums.

2. Compensators and brackets with securing clips.

3. Master cylinder rated to 23 with 4 outlets for the pipework.


DO NOT!!!:-
1. DO NOT use any of the std pipes

2. DO NOT connect to the tpiece on the inner wings. These MUST be removed

3. DO NOT use the std compensators at the rear as they are designed for std wheels, std height, no rear disks. Very rarely they will work right after 25 years. REMOVE THEM!!!

BEEN COVERED MANY TIMES BEFORE. Learn by others mistakes and save your self some time and money. In the end you will need the exact set as described above.

Best advise is to remove it from a working non abs car, lets face it worth no more than Ł100 for it all.

RSmark84

I've done as above, but kept the T pieces using the 25mm MC. One t piece after the bias valve for the rears and the other in the standard place for the front brakes. All bled and working fine.

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

The rears should have a compensator each side. The way you have it may work, but not as good as it would the other way.
Will be much better if you converted to the above setup.

Im not saying this for the sake of it, i drive around 10 different Escorts a week and have seen every way possible of doing this and tested each type while setting up tuning cars.
Some people take it as being blunt but i say it how it is, saves all the messing around, so hope you dont take offence.

Regards
Jano

RSmark84

No offence taken, any slight brake fade or at any time i feel worried about the set up it'll get changed. Its not exactly costly of hard to swap to how you said, Jusst buy a little cooper brake pipe and a new bias/comensator.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

I also kept the T pieces, but use a willwood bias valve in place of the rear compensator's. The down side is it now a front read split and not a diagonal (safer) split. However the brakes work very well.

I also used a 25.4 (i think...) rs2000 master cylinder with a mondeo servo. The smaller xr3i (non abs) master cylinder I had before gave a slightly long brake pedal. The original 25(ish)mm master gives a much firmer pedal imo and I don't see any reason not to keep it.

There might be some pics in my resto, I'll have a look..

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Sadly this is the only pic I could see of my current setup minus the brake servo pics already up. Not that cheap but does work well.

I set the bias up so the rears wouldn't lock in the rain with an emergency stop.

Rob,

studabear

my old rag top has a 23mm m/c abs gone, re-piped/bypassed, cossie front brakes, properly serviced rear brakes, including serviced compensators and fresh fluid and it stops mint.