AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

Im guessing cause we're not happy to settle with anything less than ideal?

While its fine now in this weather and with everything working. I'd still be happier with a more efficient setup. I dont have breakdown cover, and my transporter is parked at home when im out so i want it to just work, all the time.

Im planning on a couple trips this year too including alps and a trip to ring. I want to know it'll handle every scenario.

muz

Nor am I the only time I had issues was when my rad was too far away from the cooler so the air wasn't being forced through by the fans and, in my opinion, the engine/headgasket was on its way out. So, I had underlying problems. Since it was rebuilt with new parts I didn't have a problem with temps. I just can't see how if everything is serviceable and fitted correctly how the temps can be so high.

BEEFRS

Here is my set up the water outlet on the turbo goes to the airtec rad then comes back round into the off side of the rad it also runs an 82 degree thermastat anyones RST that runs too hot has an underlying problem and should be diagnosed correctly i've bought many an rst which as sludge as coolant and a worn water pump.

You can also buy a waterless coolant now with a higher boiling temp(180 degrees) which is a good thing to use on old classic cars

BEEFRS

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

Looks like your rad is mounted further back than standard, which is what I'm thinking of doing.

Lets not get confused here, my car isn't overheating. And 90% of the parts are brand new within a couple months. My problem is efficiency, i can hammer it round all night and the temp doesn't get to half way, i just dont want it struggling to cool down when i come to a stop, and i dont want the fan running all the time when im sat in traffic.

BEEFRS

It looks sat further back because its twice the depth of a standard rad therefore will aid cooling plus with the airtec rad cooling the hot water coming from the Turbo the whole system works a treat, i literally have to sit in traffic at least half an hour before the fans kick in at just above halfway on the gauge

muz

I mount my rads further forward than standard to get them further away from the hot turbo and down pipe.

muz

Sounds like you might be looking for a solution to a problem that isn't there, mate, lol. You're cooling system seems up to scratch, these cars run hot anyway but yours doesn't sound like it has any problems at all.

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

The problem is the fans being on too long. I get that they build up heat easily, but it should cool quicker in my opinion. The fan goes off after about a minute on a standard car, mine can be on for a good few minutes in this weather sat still if I've stretched it's legs.

I don't have a 'problem' I'm looking for a more efficient solution.

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

Nothing wrong with a car being developed

As we all know they're never truly finished.

BEEFRS

Where are your fans mounted ?? And do you run standard rad?? ..

muz

In that case, maybe start looking at the fans themselves? What manufacturer are they? If they are the Spal COPIES, not genuine, they aren't as efficient. I use twin Kenlowes which do the job fine, however they don't move as much air as a pair of Spals. Have you looked at the fan wiring, also? It might be that the wiring is old and the twin fans are drawing too much current. I noticed on my car that when I only connected one afn, rather than the pair, it spun quicker. I've replaced the wiring now with brand new stuff run off a 40amp relay.

BEEFRS

i have also had this problem and had to rewire the fans so they can run as intended

B19 JUB

just bringing this thread back to life im in a tizzy about my orion.it has a large airtec intercooler placed at an angle above the bumper and twin fans on the rad.im looking to get another intercooler as mine has mounts broken.im thinking either the airtec single pass with fans on rad or the rs500 style with fans on intercooler.my cooling system is more of a worry to me than charge temps so looking for advice to what set up is best.

btw my orion is on L6 management with 803s and a stage 2 turbo with cosworth fuel pump

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

Few ideas I want to try myself shortly so ill report back with how they work after few weeks.

Rogeyboy

iTrader: (2)

Im on Airtec Rad, Airtec Single Pass IC and Airtec Turbo Cooler.
IC out in front with fans on the rad.
After finally sorting the cooling system out by bleeding it thru (big thanks to Alan at airtec) it cruises in mid 80s and spikes into the mid 90s after a thrash through all the gears.

AstoN_B

iTrader: (1)

Virtually same setup as me except the airtec rad. Does your turbo cooler get warm after a run? And how's it plumbed in?

How did you go about bleeding it through I thought they were self bleeding?

Think my headgasket is weeping a little cause it actually does get a bit warm from time to time now and sometimes spits a bit out of tank cap. Past few weeks its developed. Gonna use the time it's apart to do a few updates if the gasket has gone. Rewire fans, modified bumper, Evans powercool, new fan setup with controller.

Think I jinxed myself starting this thread.