over heating
#1
Podge
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hi everyone.
I have a fiesta rst engine in my escort, fiesta pace rad. has one fan cooling it. the engine isnt too great keeping cool.
iv gotten that valve, that opens up in the engine to lets the water pass, taken out so that the water flows full time..
The question i am asking is, if i were to change the timing belt, is there a bigger water pump that i can stick in there to resolve the issue? and where would i get one from ?
any help would be great as its getting hot in oz here and it doesnt like the heat whatsoever
I have a fiesta rst engine in my escort, fiesta pace rad. has one fan cooling it. the engine isnt too great keeping cool.
iv gotten that valve, that opens up in the engine to lets the water pass, taken out so that the water flows full time..
The question i am asking is, if i were to change the timing belt, is there a bigger water pump that i can stick in there to resolve the issue? and where would i get one from ?
any help would be great as its getting hot in oz here and it doesnt like the heat whatsoever
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#2
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Your best bet would be to put twin fans on the front and a Motorsport development uprated fan switch on. Also check that your cooling system isn't blocked and is working properly. You shouldn't be having issues like this in a standard engine.
You could also try hard wiring in a temp gauge to see what the temp is exactly and it maybe your gauges at fault! Either broken or your using the wrong sender for the engine and gauge combination your using, either way, wiring in another gauge will give you a true reading.
Hope that helps.
You could also try hard wiring in a temp gauge to see what the temp is exactly and it maybe your gauges at fault! Either broken or your using the wrong sender for the engine and gauge combination your using, either way, wiring in another gauge will give you a true reading.
Hope that helps.
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Martin is very right, once you solve the overheating issue... Until you do, my opinion would be leave the thermostat out to save cooking your engine, BUT, as soon as the issue is rectified get it back in straight away, or, as Martin has rightly said, you'll never get the engine to the right temp and you can do just as much damage.
Si
Si
#5
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Id put a new stat back in, get an 82c from MSD. Leave the standard fan switch and check that the fan comes on... If not you have a faulty fan or wiring.
If the fan comes on, does it go back off after a couple of mins? If so you have no issues.
If it stays on and doesnt go off then i'd start with a coolant flush/change and maybe check theres no blockages etc. Then check the actual temp of the water with a small thermometer in the header tank (it will be 2-3c cooler in the header tank than the system i would imagine) You want to see a water temp of around 95-97c when the fan cuts in and it should go off around 92-93c depending what switch you have in there.
If the fan comes on, does it go back off after a couple of mins? If so you have no issues.
If it stays on and doesnt go off then i'd start with a coolant flush/change and maybe check theres no blockages etc. Then check the actual temp of the water with a small thermometer in the header tank (it will be 2-3c cooler in the header tank than the system i would imagine) You want to see a water temp of around 95-97c when the fan cuts in and it should go off around 92-93c depending what switch you have in there.
#6
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Your best bet would be to put twin fans on the front and a Motorsport development uprated fan switch on. Also check that your cooling system isn't blocked and is working properly. You shouldn't be having issues like this in a standard engine.
You could also try hard wiring in a temp gauge to see what the temp is exactly and it maybe your gauges at fault! Either broken or your using the wrong sender for the engine and gauge combination your using, either way, wiring in another gauge will give you a true reading.
Hope that helps.
You could also try hard wiring in a temp gauge to see what the temp is exactly and it maybe your gauges at fault! Either broken or your using the wrong sender for the engine and gauge combination your using, either way, wiring in another gauge will give you a true reading.
Hope that helps.
I forgot to say. that with my bypass hose blocked my thermostat was only getting air touching it not water, and air at a temp will not open a thermostate , water at near boiling will work but air at the same.. well the air lock just made the water expand and I was on a loser jsu blamed the thermostate but it was the air lock which the bypass hose that was surposed to let water through to stop Cheers
Last edited by Diesel combi pete; 05-11-2012 at 06:09 PM.
#7
Podge
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thanks everyone.
i think i will get a second fan (two big mommas) and see how that goes. as far as that valve that lets the water flow, i will leave that out because the car is in australia and its scorching hot all year round
when the temp is at middle and im driving fasdt it stays at that temp but i have to keep driving to keep it at that temp or it shoots up right up to the red line.. it is a standard engine but ran off omex 600 and is actuallly not mapped right yet its a bit of over fuelling.. ? aybe thats an issue too ?
i think i will get a second fan (two big mommas) and see how that goes. as far as that valve that lets the water flow, i will leave that out because the car is in australia and its scorching hot all year round
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when the temp is at middle and im driving fasdt it stays at that temp but i have to keep driving to keep it at that temp or it shoots up right up to the red line.. it is a standard engine but ran off omex 600 and is actuallly not mapped right yet its a bit of over fuelling.. ? aybe thats an issue too ?
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