hello there, i have a turbo bonus and want to up to 10psi, no more as i beleive the stock fuelling will cope safely at 10psi. im on a bog std engine (6psi) except for a scorpion ss exhaust and big front mount i/cooler. also have bailey dump valve/samco. i have bought a bleed valve and im a bit apprehensive about fitting as i dont want to overboost. im aware the ecu wont allow, does this act as a safety net with a bleed valve or am i right in thinking the actual amal valve sends the signal? id just like to get some pointers off you better informed folk. i want a touch more power but eventually (summer) i plan to get chipped/set up on the rolling road ect. thanks in advance chaps

 

to allow upto 10 psi you would need the late 90 spec erst ecu or your gona need a chip from the likes of motorsport developments or bayjoo etc. dont bother with bleed valve, keep the amal valve and get yourself a -31 actuator and set the boost. bleed valves give a flat boost curve whilst the amal valve will give a better curve and you get a nice shove when the turbo comes on. id recommend getting the fuelling matched to the boost you set with the -31 actuator and you should see around 150 to 160bhp with 10 to 12 psi of boost i would of thought

 

cheers for that mate. so the late 90 spec ecu, is that the hearts/diamonds one ore the coloured squares? one? if not any other way to id the one you mention. im new to this but have a long background with bikes, particularly setting up/building my own 2 stroke engines so im not shy with the spanners and have a sense of mechanical sympathy. hence the ask first, act 2nd approach! i would ultimatley use a r/road to make sure the fuelling is safe (again, 2 stroke mentality). is the actuator you speak of the collins type? i see varied views on the bleed valve, some say steer clear while others say there a good simple bit of kit if not fiddled with. well i god a 3 port one some time back and once fitted and showing 9/10psi would leave as is anyway. i hope to use the bleed valve but wondered wether the connector from the amal is just cable tied to one side or wether it had to be brigded/bypassed. i also DONT want to cause any damagre through error via too much boost. again im unsure about the rs' but common sense tells me the ecu will dictate how much boost, but doesnt the amal valve do this? also storys of idiots wacking the b/valve up to 35psi and melting pistons leads me to think the ecu IS controlled by the would be replaced amal. the m'sport/dev 3 port valve i have has no markings to give a ballpark figure as to boost level per turn. again thanks for the input and sorry about the essay

 

I have the ECU you need for sale so check out my thread in the RST Parts For Sale section.

 

get the above ecu and get a -31 actuator from either collins or burton power. leave the amal valve on there so you can a nice kick when the boost comes in and adjust the actuator rod length to set boost pressure. if you use a bleed valve power delivery will be really flat and it wont feel like its pulling as hard as with the amal valve. been there before. when i bought my s2 rst someone had fitted a bleed valve and disconnected amal valve and was boosting at 12 psi felt quick to me at first but when i removed bleed valve and re-fitted amal valve boosted to 14 psi and felt so much quicker and pulled so much better. also power came in with a big shove which i love

 

When i bought my car it had a chipped ecu and a bleed valve, after a good set up it was very safe at 18psi.

My own personal advice would be to either fit the -31 and ecu OR fit the bleed valve and ecu and take it for a set up. The set up is essential as a boost increase from 6-10psi (which is quite small) will still leave to with the possibility of running lean.

Both methods will give similar results.

Rob,

 

Trial and error, start with it locked off, on a standard actuator (which will be more than good enough for 10psi btw) and try a slight turn at a time, a small change makes a large difference. But the type that locks off too.

The amal valve and boost controlling valve are doing the same job, a large boost spike isn't necessarily a good thing.

Rob,

 

on my way to look now mate, thanks fellas. been a great help and put one or two questions i had to bed.

 

well, i got a new actuator, the collins type. i will be fitting tomorrow with luck so any tips will be handy, i ask as access is a bugger on the rst. it turns out the ecu is chipped, i fitted my bleed valve and on the lowest setting it went round to 15psi so it looks like my amal was/is knackered as it previously only saw 6psi. im guessing the min psi ought to be set via the actuator then dialled in via the death valve? it will be going for setup on the r/road. ps i posted a similar thing elsewere by mistake, is there any way i can get the other thread deleted? the edit/delete wont allow me to? thanks

 

collins one is propably fitted with a stiffer spring so it more than normal that you get more boost from it.
had the same thing with the stock rst actuator when winding up it made little difference but when i fitted the -31 actuator and wound it up the same as the rst one i had more than 15 psi of boost..
I had to slack it off a lot and even disconnect the amal valve to get my 7 psi back

 

i see what you mean but i have not yet fitted my collins actuator. the 15psi is from the old actuator!! the only change is using a bleed valve in place of the amal. that change has found 6psi up to 15psi (peak) with the bleed valve 100%locked off!!. thanks for the tip re the new actuator been stronger sprung, ill bear that in mind when setting up on initial fitment. my biggest headache is whats the easiest way to gain access to the actuator to enable swapping? from underneath/top and what bits need unbolting to gain access? im guessing the rad/front mount i/cooler?? cheers

 

right, i fitted my -31 actuator and it now holds 15psi. in the lower gears its awesome, spinning the wheels at will. fuelling is priority though as i dont want a meltdown. went to a local firm and tbh im a bit iffy about using them, i really need a specialist in mfi. he said it was very lean and richened it up slightly but warned me to not hold it on boost which i havent. as a result he didnt do a power run. at 3k it was 30hp down from awhat a good std rs peaks at. he said its a good healthy mill and is a nice car. one employee though told me the green plug is not a knock sensor hence my reservations. my spec is now -31, on amal, big i/cooler, chipped ecu though as of yet unknown by who, baileys d/v which will be coming off. sounds ace for a day then gets on your wick. as far as i know its a std cam but ill soon found out when i replace it and the valvegear. any ideas on a predictable hp output?? not important i know but just for fun off some of you well informed types. i hope to go cossie managent in future and maybe go to 1.9 cvh or 2.1 zvh. owt over 200 hp while ''reliable'' ill be happy with. in current form ill be pleased with 150+ cheers matt

 

is the local tuner Well Lane?

I assume you are in Brighouse?

If so, what about RS Tuning in Leeds?

 

no, im in brigg lincolnshire nr scunny. the r/road i used is vessey in barnetby. seem like a knowledgable outfit tbh, the boss was cock on. just maybe not had an mfi in a while and rusty. as a base setu[p i think ill be ok re fuelling but when i want more hp ill go to a specialist. theres a few good outfits that cater for turbo charged fords ie rs and cossies' and reccomendations in the humberside/lincolshire area?

 

Or why not save the hassle and buy a chipped ecu on eBay for £30 max and run 14psi and have a safe 180bhp with your cooler ect

If it's for insurance purposes then I see why but otherwise it's easier to just fit a chipped ecu

 

my most reliable rs ran 10 psi on a standard ecu, with a scorpion and front mount and fresh standard cam.

went really well, werent laggy, actually alright on fuel aswell.

was on a 88 spec one