i got a series 2 rs engine in my mk4 4 door, and the the fans are mounted on the fmic as there's not a lot of room behind it, now the car gets a bit hot if left idling any ideas?

 

You need to make room m8 by shaving bits of the back of your bumper and fitting the fans on the radiator mate

 

cheers mate i had a feeling you was going to say that but the bonnet catch is getting close to the intercooler as well its just problem after problem!

 

my intercooler is millimetres of my bonnet catch mate, what i did with my rad was moved it back to accomadate fans left airtec intercooler as far forward as possible no mod to bumper, downside is rad is very close to turbo housin, heat, heat

 

hmm the fans are touching the bumper where its modded, i think im just gonna go over to bonnet pins and move the inter cooler forward and put the fans behind it as ive got to spray the rs turbo bonnet anyway

 

My fans are on the cooler and i have no heat issues

 

When moving the Rad back. MAKE SURE you can squeeze a finger between the rad itself and the closest point of the turbo. Its is for engine movement, Do not forget this. Its very important to leave space here the higher the RPM when the engine is running the more movement the engine will make.

 

good call mate never thot o tht 1, wen i said millimetres i mayb lied a little lol, just checked mine today and its a half inch from it, nearly a finger,

 

im thinking bonnet pins !!!! i think they spoil a car mate, boy racer mod , holes drilled in bonnet asking for rust again, just my opinion bud

 

Dont feel bad fitting bonnet pins. They serve a purpose and being fitted to an RS turbo with a FMIC, is acceptable. If bonnet pins were never invented many people would be buggered when it comes to opening/closing the bonnet. Just make sure you seal the holes made once youve drilled.

 

I agree with you there mate.

 

If your fitting pins, think about security! Get locking pins that are recessed into the bonnet. They look smarter than the other ones... Also what rad are you running? Standard or alloy? Uprate to alloy or at least NEW standard might help you. Also you could try fitting a swirl pot.

 

Swirl pot and alloy rad won't do anything to aid cooling.

Fans mounted on the back of the rad with a proper cowling would work wonders but its very close to the turbo. My spal fans sit in front of the intercooler and they are just about OK, nothing amazing the car still gets hot in traffic, This winter im upgrading to high output kenlows (shift more air than the spals by a fair bit) and im going to use a cowl between the intercooler and rad which will make the fans much more effective (more air is forced through the rad).

A lower temp thermostat and an MSD fan switch will probably help you too,


Rob,

 

If swirl pots and alloy rads don't help cooling why do so many people fit them? Swirl pots get the air out of the Water making it more efficient cooling and alloy rads generally have larger capcity meaning they can radiate more heat. I do like your ideas about the cowling though.

 

rs turbo's have a swirl pot fitted as standard

 

Are you sure the car is running alright? timing etc.

I have an FMIC with the fans mounted on the front behind the bumper, std rad, uprated thermostat and with both fans on (separate switch for one of them) sat in traffic the temperature will never go above half way. They are only the cheapo fans that came with my airtec front mount as well.

Surely moving the rad back is just going to add to the temp problems with it being even closer to the turbo etc.?

 

The thermostat housing does a pretty good job at getting air out, not that a properly bled system running below boiling point will have much air in it any way, and the original rad which is the same size as an after market ali rad had a copper core. Copper transfers heat better than aluminium.

Using ali, mean the end caps can be aluminium, plus copper is more expensive to buy than ali.

Saying that i have a pace aluminium rad to my car, it does the job but isn't any better than the original, my car also had a swirl pot fitted, when i bought it. And after i de-blinged the engine bay i ebayed that too and didn't notice any difference in running temps etc.

I think they were sold to make money tbh.

Rob,

 

What about electric water pump to increase the flow rate, would that help. I ask as I had similar problem with mine, Binned the Radtech alloy rad as the core had collapsed and was getting glitter in the water. At that time i looked at electric water pump but didn't do it as replacing the rad and changing the fans to 11" kenlows worked, but it sits at 90 degrees with fans cutting out and cutting in as they should.

Could do with some sort of cowling but as said very little space