luxembourgrst

well i checked all the sensor unit from the kejetronic it s looking OK

the problem is that i only can start the engine when i put 12v on the cold start injector and is still running but if i cut the 12v off on the cold injector the engine is running higher and cut off after 3-4 second

my fuel pump is very noisy
need help thanks sorry for my englisg

luxembourgrst

nO idee?

vroooom ptssssh

do you have 12v on either end terminal of the throtle switch when ignition is on? there are 3 pins, either of the end pins (or maybe just one) should be 12v live with ignition on, if it is NOT then your fuel ecu (black box) is not getting power, that would be a good start to check.

luxembourgrst

ok checked it and i have 9.70 volt one the 2 pins but on the middel pin i have nothing

luxembourgrst

well i dont know what to do??

vroooom ptssssh

Ok so the fuel ECU has power, that's a good start. middle pin shouldnt have any volts.

Take the air filter off, get somebody to crank the car (assuming fuel pump works as normal (when cranking and once engine runs) press the metering flap down 2-3mm and see if the car makes any attempt to start. if so, then the idle C/O mixture needs adjusted as it is lean so therefore won't idle.

If you have a dump valve fitted makesure it isn't leaking by sucking on the vacuum line to see if it holds vacuum on your tongue if you get me! another reason it may not start is a leak in the boost side of the pipework.

It sounds like it's lean and the cold star injector isn't working when it should, as if it was working it should start then cut out when the cold start injector switches off, this could be one of two things: plugs round the wrong way poss on the thermal time switch (brown sensor on inlet) and coolant temp sensor (yellow sensor on inlet) or one of the sensors isn't working properly, sure it's the yellow coolant temp sensor that tells the cold start injector when to come on and off.

see how you get on with that

MO' BENT RIMS

excellent advise there vrooooom pttshh

vroooom ptssssh

We need to make a sticky thread with some good info as so many people come on asking why their RS turbo won't start!

luxembourgrst

yes thanks well my dump valve bailey is new and the vacum hoses are good fixed

the problem is with my co screw i had played with it i turn it on timme all in the left ont time all in the right i don t know where i need to put it is there not a rules who say to turn in all at the right and then turn it 2 times back?

yes it s true that maybe the pin are on the wrong way off the thermo time switch because i had to refix them one time maybe i fixed they on the wrong side

the yellow plug for the engine temperature is ok i checked the ohm an the plug wiring is also ok

but i was thinking that the termo time switch is there to control the cold injector and not the yellow engine temperture

well i gone try to change the wiring pin of my thermo time plug
thanks

luxembourgrst

i checked all the pins the pins from the thermoswitch the braun plug are in the correcte side and also the yellow plug from the engine temperature are in the correct side

the thermo switch have the good ohm it tested it i have the same score like in the mk3rs turbo manuelwork book

for me i have a fuel pressure problem maybe ( my fuel pump is very noise when y put the contact ON its noisy )
or i forgot some where a earth plug
need help thanks vrmmmm pchtttttt

vroooom ptssssh

Fuel pressure should be 5.5-6 bar iirc, this is where the injectors will open as they are mechanical and rely on pressure to activate.

so: bridge fuel pump relay so fuel pump runs constantly with or without ignition on (2 heavy wires on purple relay holder under drivers side dash on right hand side (assuming right hand drive)), bridge with a good piece of wire), press fuel flap down and listen carefully for injectors "squeeling" this is fuel going through the injectors...if you hear the "squeel" then don't worry about fuel pressure as there is enough to open the injectors.

It sounds to me like your problem is the CO screw, this is VERY sensitive and if it is not in the correct position then the car will not run, or be very hard to get to run.

I do not know of a correct position to set the CO screw to get the car to idle, my best advice would be screw it fully one way and back it off a flat of the allen key until the car sounds like it's going to, or does start, this might be very time consuming but im afraid it's going to have to be done like that as I can't think of another way!

IF/ONCE the car starts, you will have to get it on an AFR meter to set the Idle/part throtle mixture properly to somthing like 13.5


Good luck!

luxembourgrst

i test it and yes there is fuel who come out the injectorse and the same quantity on every injector (but the fuel pub style noisy)

yes maybe only a co srew problem

but normarly how many turn i need to turn to have a correct co to start the car
well i need to turn it full on one way an d than turn it a little bit back a test to start the car if not again turn it and try again to start it it gone a be a long time... hmmmm

vroooom ptssssh

well if their is fuel coming out the injectors forget about the noisey pump for now, as this obviously ins't the problem.

i don't know how many turns one way or the other, as i've never had one scrwewed so far either way to know!? yes it will be a long time to find out what's going to work but unfortunately that's just going to have to be how it is two people would half the time it takes to figure out

If you have removed the adaptor for the idle CO screw or removed the cap screw to get at the CO screw then note that the car WILL NOT START without the hole(s) for the CO screw covered up as it is an air leak! cover the hole(s) with your fingers after adjusting when cranking.

luxembourgrst

yes thanks i know it will be a air leak for my metering unit it is a srew that i have to remove and then with 5mm allen key to adjust the co

but is true that with a bas co srew adjustement the car don t start ?
is it so importent

vroooom ptssssh

Yes it is very important if this setting isn't correct it will either be very difficult to start (slightly out rich or lean) or it won't start at all. I thought it was a 3mm allen key to adjust CO screw once you remove the cover screw!

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Its also worth monitoring the voltage to the fuel reg, as it should read 0v at idle and increase to around 1v when you go to WOT,

If the voltage is there at idle or crank then there is an enrichment fault meaning the base CO will be impossible to correct. I see quite a few with various wiring issues and sensor issues causing constant enrichment.

luxembourgrst

ah yes it s true its the pontiometre the other plug with 3 pins on the side of the metering unit
it mean when my flap is up i need to have 0volt no?? and full flap down 8 volt

vroooom ptssssh

This can be temporarily by-passed by just unplugging the warm up reg puerly to help to get it started, if no volt meter handy no? correct me if i'm wrong. Can also check if it's operating once running by just plugging it back on and see if engine speeds up or not.

when you are cranking the car it should be 0v and initialy as it starts to idle, as it heats up it should increase to 1v as the car heats up.
fuel enrichment also operates from the switch connected to the side of the throtle when on full throtle.

now back to work luxembourgrst you've got a turbo to get running

luxembourgrst

sorry but cranking ean to try start the car turn the key full to the right
idle mean what?

luxembourgrst

ah ok in french
cranking-demarage
ile-ralentit

vroooom ptssssh

Cranking - turn key fully clockwise to turn engine over to try start

Idle - engine running with no throtle input (i.e. 800-1000 rpm)

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Just to point out do not turn the idle mixture screw fully clockwise or it will fall though into the metering unit! Anti clockwise is ok though (fully lean), also to point out that it simply adjusts the stop position of the flap, so turning it clockwise is the same as pressing the flap down a little and will richen the mixture for starting.

luxembourgrst

well i have some NEWS :
my engine start but very hard with all the plugs good connected

i still running the engine that is going hot oil temperature 80 degree

the dizzy distributor is on the middle

it try to set up my idle but impossible nothing change it style running 1200 rpm
(the throttle body is good closed no stretching on the gaz cable)


and at the exhaust is a little bit black smoke

well i open the flat srew on the metering unit to change the CO with my 3mm allen key i turn it back (not clockweise) and directly put my finger on the hole and then the rpm is going down to 800-900 rpm but the engine is very low and is on the limite to cut off try to set up the idle on the throttle body but nothing change ..??
its like i have to adjuste my idle rpm with my co srew the other srrew on the throtle body change anything maybe very little bit

and the engine is very difficult to start it again when is hot

vroooom ptssssh

Well it's a start! i'd say set it up with the CO screw so it sits around 1200 and turn it back to 8-900rpm with the throtle screw on the right hand side behind the black throtle switch.

Ignition timing should be 12 degrees if you have a strobe to set it.

I dont think their is a problem as such, I just think it needs a good setup!

CO, ignition timing, idle speed, on boost mixture...

Oil temp at 80 degrees is still cool, oil usually sits between 100 degrees (to burn moisture off) and 120...ish at full operating temp.

luxembourgrst

yes i have the strob lamp for the igniton..
and a co tester
but the ignition is difficult to see because the rpm is not stable it varyis and is difficult to see on the pulley

i gone a do what you sayed thanks

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

You probably know this but make sure you plug the idle mixture screw after adjusting or it will run very lumpy (air leak).

luxembourgrst

yes i put my finger on it

luxembourgrst

well no other sudduction?

vroooom ptssssh

Where are we at, it now starts but runs crap?

luxembourgrst

well ok some NEWS

after one week i start the engine it don t start direct have to try it 4-5 times
and than is still running but i hear that it s non running very clean the rpm are 1200

it still stay running but of one time i look about my fuel gauge and it s near the reserve but on the begin the fuel gauge was near the middle and of 10 minute running engine the fuel gauge is near the reserve at the end ?????

my co srew is in this postion i turn the co srew all to the left ( ANTI clock weise ) then i turn it like 0.8 -1 turn to the right (clockweise) then i have 1200 rpm

(but the co srew have a lot more way to the right ??)

i turn the engine off try to resart it an i had no power more on the batterie ???
(old batterie and old alternator )

strange?
thanks