kermitt

Went for a run up some back roads on the way home from work yesterday and the engine stopped while I was driving coming slowly to a halt then would not fire. The pump was priming and I had fuel and no blown fuses but looks like no spark to the leads.

It would bump start but the rpm was very low and as soon as we stopped it just died again.

Now I know I need to check the feed to the coil and then the feed from there to the distributor but could someone please explain how to connect my multimeter so I don't accidentally pop anything.

The car has been running spot on for several weeks always starting on the button and since I changed to PP8 plugs it has been even better, now this . I have my old coil, dizzy and leads I can use if needed but just want to check first.

On MFI by the way.

kermitt

Got power to my coil anyway.

However have noticed when I switch the ignition on there is a fizzing sound coming from down below the passenger headlamp and the car is making a noise like something is activating.

Anyway its still not working and beyond me so off to the sparky's.

gingerturbo

iTrader: (2)

check the ressistance of the primary and secondary coil, also ya wanna check on the wiring on the coil theres a little black chip,switch,suppressor? cant remember the name but they can burn out, the 3 wiring to the cam sensor,

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Girlfirend says i've lost my spark too.

There are several options mate. IMO you are best of strategically working back from the spark plugs, checking all components as you go and replacing any worn items. Until you get to the battery.

Rob,

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

lol @ Rob!

Also check the green wire that runs from the coil round the FRONT of the engine bay to the ECU, this often gets broken because of it's stupid location! lol

GVK.

Simple check...get a side repeater bulb holder or similar with a 5w bulb

2 lengths of wire.... connect these to the coil wiring ,with the coil disconnected, when you crank the engine the bulb should flash if the hall sender (distributor) /associated wiring is good , also the fuel pump should run if there's a signal from the hall sender on cranking.

gingerturbo

iTrader: (2)

gd call GVK

kermitt

I got fuel thats not the problem.

Checked today I had no power to the coil so checked the red ignition relay which wasn't clicking so replaced that.

So I now had power to the coil but no power from it so changed the coil and now I have 11.5V coming from either terminal.

Also changed the HT lead from the coil and I have 13V to the dizzy but nothing from the dizzy along the HT leads.

Changed the dizzy and no joy then changed the cap and rotor arm then HT leads and still no spark.

Am seriously stumped on this

GVK.

If you test the coil wiring with a bulb as I described above it will tell you if the dizzy and the wiring is good, or not. Why I mentioned the fuel pump is that if the dizzy and wiring is good the fuel pump will operate when you crank, not just when you key on to prime the system.

Not being funny, but you have checked that the rotor is turning?

kermitt

pretty sure the coil is turning. My mechanic mate who was helping reckons there is insufficient voltage to the dizzy from the coil. Possibly due to the little black box in the circuit to the coil. Is this a condensor?

GVK.

I've not had an RST since 1999 and the old brain isn't as good as it once was, so struggling to remember how they're wired, but if you suspect the dissy doesn't have sufficient voltage, jump a wire into the live connection into the dissy from battery to try it.

Have you checked that the silver ECU plug behind the heater hasn't come out?

kermitt

Was thinking along those same lines because the wire from the dizzy goes to the ECU so I will check the plug and see if I have voltage going to the ECU.

If it doesn't then I can't do a continuity test because my multimeter does not have that function.