Tezla82

Hi

After I start my ERST S2, 5-10 minutes later, the RPM's goes up in about 1˝ second then falls to normal, then up in 1˝ second then down and keeps on doing that...

Only when it has operating temperature and has been turned off and started again, it's gone and then it's idling perfect.

I took off the cap for oil filling (just for looking) and the car idles perfect... Cap goes back on and idling goes up then normal etc.

Any suggestions?
Is my engine in bad shape? :-/

Thanks on advance!
Martin

lead_foot

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like an oil breather problem, maybe just a blockage.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Your breathers are blocked, if you remove the oil cap the engine should stall.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Or you have an air leak, and some one has wound the CO pot out (a lot) to mask the problem. Mine was like this,

Rob,

Tezla82

Hi and thanks for reply!

Maybe I shouldnt have these cars but I love them... I just dont know much about engines and technical stuff :-/

Where's my oilbreather?
How to check and/or fix?
Should engine stall/stop when oil cap is removed, when engine running?

Rob_DOHC:
Air leak, where? And I dont understand the "wound the CO pot out"? :-/

Engine pic:
www.tezlabyte.dk/upload/RSTurbo/engine.jpg

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Air leak in the intake/boost system. Rocker cover gasket, split boost hose, oil cap, dip stick etc. These are all places that can have an air leak and cause 'hunting' where the rpm goes up and down at idle. Mine had it when it was warm, but was fine cold due to the extra enrichment.

How long has it been like this?

Rob,

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Edit, dump valves can also leak.

Tezla82

Since I got it actually :-/ A year... But it is in garage from november till may/june, two times now.

I discovered that my rocker cover has to "loose" bolts in the lower right corner and upper left corner @ www.tezlabyte.dk/upload/RSTurbo/engine.jpg
They dont tighten up, just "sits there" if you understand?

And is it a serious thing? The rpm's going up then down because of an air leak?

// Martin

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Right in that case, its very similar to mine when i bought it. Under your air filter there is a 'CO pot' which makes loose adjustments to fueling... My car had an air leak behind the inlet manifold which the previous owner never found. He simply turned up the fueling to hide the leak. It meant that when the car was cold and on enrichment and fast idle every thing was fine. But when the car was warm the idle rpm would hunt.

Your problem could also be the breather, In the end i took every hose off the car, and then reassembled carefully. Checking for leaks.

Your rocker cover bolts have probably stripped the threads, on the bolt or in the head. I would get some more or drill and tap the head to the next size up (maybe m6 instead of m5??) but yes this could cause your problem too.

Good luck

Tezla82

I uploaded some engine pics, could you use 1 minute and edit them with circles'n'stuff to pinpoint to where in the engine I should check?
www.tezlabyte.dk/upload/RSTurbo/engine

Don't know what the "CO pot" is :-/
But I have removed my K&N filter for cleaning, is it where the filter was?

About the fueling, my fuel pump has direct 12volt to it.. Maybe the previous owner had problems too? Or is it normal to do that?

When mine is warm all is perfect.. very very smooth idle and response.

Breather? again, pinpoint in the pics?

Stripped the threads? (aarh... google translate)
Well yeah that maybe be it.
Get some more? Get new bolts and if that doesnt help, make "bigger holes"?

So to sum things up I should get new bolts for rocker cover first and check if the air leak is from rocker cover?

-.- Sorry to be such a tech/engine newbie and ask "stupid" questions and all that, but I'm really trying to learn.

Thanks a bunch for the replies so far!!

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

No problems, when i have a min i will circle bits, if it is fine when warm it may well be the breather? maybe some one else can help to clarify. Will do the pic tomorrow for you

Tezla82

Superb, thanks.
I'll wait

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Okay,

This is a quick edit, im using a linux laptop and don't know how any of the image editors work! so it isn't very good, i will use windows tomorrow and do a more complete picture,

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

These are potential areas for air leaks

1) oil filler cap, rubber seal goes dry, perishes.
2) Part of the breather system, this can perish, or become blocked
3)Dump valve, often a source of problems on rst's, they get old and dont seal properly.
4)Another part of the breather system, think this one goes down to the bottom of the block

And boost hose, yours all look like the original ford ones? check all hoses and make sure they are not split and seal.

Sorry about the rubbish picture edit!

Check behind the inlet manifold too. I will try and scan some images in from the ford book explaining the breather system a little better.

What specifically would you like naming?

Rob,

chaffe

3) looks like an HKS blow off valve, not really designed for an rst with metered air, could this prehaps be opening at idle speed.

Tezla82

Great picture edit.. Good enough for me :]

1) The oil filler cap doesnt "feel wrong". It's "tight" to get off and on.
2) I will have to check it out, but what to do actually? Is there any risk of getting air into the system that needs to be vented out again?
3) Again, how to check it? Off with the two clamps and the pipe, or its maybe only the BOV itself?
4) I will have to check it out, but what to do actually? Is there any risk of getting air into the system that needs to be vented out again?

I dont know if my boost hose is original, thats the good thing about buying cars here, noone knows what parts are in them :-/ But it could look original.

Do the scanned pictures show what I have to look for specifically, behind the inlet manifold? Or can you explain?

When the car is idling should the BOV make the same whissshh sound as when I am driving? Because it doesnt... Then I would suspect the BOV.

So if I should name some it would be 2,3 and 4

It may be a HKS copy as far as I know, but I would really like to keep that sound from this one :]

chaffe

is it open/leaking at idle?

Tezla82

I dont know. How to tell? If it's easy to tell visually, then I would say no. Nothing seems open on the BOV.
I've tried to rev it from engine and only a little whisssh came.

PETEDUDE007

this might sound stupid but.
my rs would idle eratically and also sometimes not start very well id have to kep my foot on the accelerator until the car was warmed up after about 3 mins the car was fine idled better but not great but certainly didnt cut out.

wasnt a problem as the car was off the road for a while anyway getting some welding and what have you then a few months later the car wouldnt start at all.

it turned out to be the fuel pump relay i replaced that and ever since i have not had any problem related to starting or idling like before very perculiar but it worked for me so might be worth checking.mine was all burnt looking and had warped outta shape so i bought a second hand one fae bigy rs and it still works fine.

Tezla82

Hi
Thanks for a whole other idea. If nothing works I'll definitely check that out.
But it reminds me when I start my car it has to run a few seconds on the starter first, and if the car has been warmed up and driven in I must use the gas pedal to start it up again.
(When the car has been standing in the garage for a a few weeks ex. the engine starts right up)
When I'm out driving and release the gas pedal and using the clutch just after doing some RPM's (3-4000) the RPM will fall and engine stops.. Hope u ppl will understand?

Can that be the air leak too or maybe the fuelpump as described from petedude007?

What about my auto-choker? Couldn't it just be that failing when the car heats up a bit?

Thanks for reading all my garbage :-/ I'd just love to see my car and engine running superb. It's somewhat a rare car in Denmark...

PETEDUDE007

ur car looks a ice one dude! however do check it its the pink relay under the dash takes 5 seconds to check my man! im no mechanic i only found this b chance as it stopped working altogether otherwise id have had it in at a garage!

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

auto-choker is the fast idle/cold start enrichment.

And yes, my car was exactly the same as yours. An air leak will mean the engine is lean (not enough fuel for air), when the car is cold and first started the 'auto-choker' will add extra fuel.... so the car will run slightly better.

When the engine is warm and the 'auto-choker' is off the car will be running slightly lean, and the idle will hunt (rpm goes up and down).

Mine was so bad that it wouldn't start when hot, and you had to press the flap under the air filter down whilst cranking to add extra fuel.

The car is probably fine when left for a long time as the injectors probably leak a little.

The truth is, your problem can be caused by several different faults. The only way to find out which one is to replace parts OR take it to a professional.

Another common fault:

Faulty sensors, air temp or coolant temp sensors are common.

However my money is on a combination of old sensors, blocked (or non functioning breather) and a small air leak caused by the original 20 year old boost hoses/breather hoses and cam cover leak.

So a combination of all problems which will only get worse over time.

Rob,

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

And as Pete above,

1) Check the relay as its easy and cheap to check.

2) Then FIX your rocker cover bolts and replace the gasket (it will be old and dry probably)

3) Then remove all hoses, check for cracks splits and reinstall/replace with samco hoses. Including breather system for a clean.

4) Then unplug ALL electrical connectors, grounds and clean,

5) Check throttle position sensor, should have 3 micro switches, your off throttle switch may not be closing (i dont think this is the problem, but you should check it).

6) Then replace the coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor

7) Then replace your mfi injectors (about Ł70 from UK ebay) with o-rings

8) Then take it to a tuning company who deal with old fords to have the fueling 'setup'.

The above list will be the cheapest route to fixing/finding your problem, no need to buy things until you have eliminated ALL the free causes, Number 8) is a MUST DO!

Let us know what you find!

Add to the list any one if i have missed something out.

Rob,

escort_matt

iTrader: (1)

defontly check the breather pipe from rocker cover to the block,the part of the block allways clog up with crap,try disconectin the bottom injector,or try air flow sensor thing in the charge carrier,as i had them problems when i had mfi

Tezla82

wow... Thanks
I have my work cut out for me :]

Only thing that would help a lot would be marking areas on the engine picture

I'll go google translate some words and see if I dare to touch, mess around and unplug things myself.

Thanks a bunch again!
I'll write again when I'm crying in my garage

Tezla82

Regarding pink relay

Is it this one?
"Just" find a way to get it out and look?
And yes, maybe I already could have checked it out but it wasnt easy to get to... Car is placed along a wall in drivers side etc. etc.


Btw the Haynes book.. Is that any good? I've ordered it, hoping it will learn me good stuff

PETEDUDE007

that looks to be it man just pull it out and have a look at it i popped mine open and was all burnt inside but i only done this coz the outside was melted a bit
worth a shot but i dont think it is ur issues but always good for piece of mind!

Tezla82

I didn't even know there were relays under the dashboard

To all:
Haynes book.. Is that any good? I've ordered it, hoping it will learn me good stuff

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Haynes is a very good book to have mate. It will tell you most of what you need to know, how to remove/replace things.

Rob,

Tezla82

Great! Just what I hoped for...

Tezla82

Hi again

When I dare to unscrew clamps and hoses and so on, is there anything I should be aware of?
Air in system, gas/petrol hoses etc.

I would like when I put it all together and tighten it up, the engine works fine again.. as now...

Or is it going to war with it?

Tezla82

bump

PETEDUDE007

just go to war with it! best way to learn is to fuck up once and i bet you will never do it again!

should be easy enough it looks it dont quote me though!

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Take lots of photos so you remember where things go back! You do t really have to remove any fuel lines. Or coolant pipes. Just any breather and boost hose.


Good luck!

Tezla82

Ehm... Just in case, would you circle the things I should "go to war with"?
Or is it the things you've circled before?

petedude007
I hope I dont fuck anything up... I would like to drive the car in the summer again

Tezla82

Hi again...

Home someone will look at my thread again.

I've taken a picture:


As you can see there is oil.. Couldnt that be the "air problem", getting "false air" through that + the opposite corner?
The opposite corner dont have oil there though.

Both bolts isnt long enough. First I checked if the threads was okay and both can be tightened WITHOUT the spacer thingy.

Is new longer bolts maybe the solution and could this be the "breather problem"? And where to get such bolts? Not my Ford garage... :-/

Tezla82

Hello

I've used some brakecleaner (translated directly)
And when I sprayed the hoses/joints where the blowoff is, I heard the RPM going up a bit.. Like rising 100 rpm.
So not the blowoff itself but the hoses.

So I guess I should try looking for cracks and/or change them.
But any suggestions here? Maybe something smart, one whole hose with blowoff connection.
Links and names etc.

milesy23rst

iTrader: (16)

sounds like your dump valve connection or dump valve is your problem get rid and dont bother with one they run better without anyway

Tezla82

no will do
I love the blowoff sound from that one, and was one of the reasons buying the car

Any other suggestions?

diesel

i had exacly the same problem with the revs going up and down it does it in perfect timing to, up down up down etc... i tryed every thing, breathers, boost pipes, sensors, the lot, i change the meter unit in the end and problem solved it had me for months a propper headach

hope this helps if you come to nothing with anything else it was my last choice and it worked